Thursday, March 2, 8:30 p.m.
They came, they are all here.
Liya Kebede, Natasha Poly, Caroline Trentini, Aymeline Valade, Jessica Stam
(our photo)
or even Malgosia Bela, some of the most beautiful girls in the world at the beginning of the 2000s, today magnificent thirty-somethings or even forties who (re )parade for Isabel Maranten girlfriends:
“It makes me so happy to see them all again”
, launches the Frenchwoman, all smiles, behind the scenes, a few minutes before the show.
A shared pleasure as the catwalks, lately, tend to promote models as thin as juvenile.
"I want to show my collections on bodies closer to reality, even if the goal of fashion is to exacerbate to make people dream."
In any case, there will be many of them, and of all ages and body types, dreaming about this magnificent enveloping shearling coat, these "
seven league"
thigh-high boots , according to the designer, these soft cable-knit mini-dresses, this jumpsuit in comfortable denim, this XXL Perfecto without anything underneath.
In a nutshell, in front of this desirable wardrobe.
VG
Friday, March 3, 1 p.m.
Judging by the applause provided at the end of the Issey Miyake fashion show at the Théâtre du Châtelet, women followers of the couturier's collections will find what they are looking for in the geometric explorations of this winter wardrobe (pants and bustiers as if folded, tops with bare shoulders with a square shape…).
And for the others?
Checked smocked dresses, loose but short jackets such as this Perfecto in orange Casentino (a Tuscan pilled cashmere) and belted overcoats, slightly crossed, will seduce those looking for ease.
MMZ
Read alsoControversies and Fashion Week
2:30 p.m.
At Giambattista Valli, some models have more luck than others in the lottery of looks: the happiest wear riding boots while the others, perched on vertiginous heels, live a long agony on the catwalk - turned ankles, small pas… This kind of torture will have to stop one day, because it can only obscure the rest of a show.
If the brand is prized by celebrities and influencers for its spectacular dresses, the most traditional pieces are paradoxically the most convincing: white denim jackets, cut-out jeans, tweed sets covered in lurex... For the first time, the Italian shows also men.
“The idea is not to make men and women,
he confides behind the scenes
.
But to share the wardrobe, so that the clothes can be worn by both.”
Rather without heels.
MMZ
16 hours
Haloed by his feat of 2020 (signing Harry Styles' outfit in American
Vogue
), the young Briton Harris Reed, who has been parading for two years with his brand in London, was propelled to the head of Nina Riccien in September.
At 27, this boy knows how to cultivate his community with a keen sense of showmanship.
In recent weeks, he has shown his first creations for the Parisian house by dressing Styles again, but also Adele and Florence Pugh.
What to believe the worthy heir to Alessandro Michele, ex-Gucci… On the catwalk, the plus size star model Precious Lee opens the ball in a puffy mini dress and black dotted tulle.
Behind, a skinny boy in a glam rock black velvet suit, quite handsome.
Everything else is to match, from hyperpop tulle outfits to queer
aesthetics
and a few suits with a vintage
feel
in jeans or slightly more realistic patent leather.
I recalled my memories of being a little girl when I played dress up with my mother's clothes.
This wardrobe for next winter is therefore a clever mix of reality and fantasy.
Victoria Beckham
A few hours later, "we are" told that the young people liked it - and that they claim it on social networks.
Obviously we are no longer in this category.
However, we would love because although the Nina Ricci house does not have a strong heritage in fashion, its name smells of femininity, lightness and delicacy.
The young Reed prefers the spirit of the times and it's clever, except that his show, intended to be inclusive, flirts with kitsch (Pierre Cadault fans will understand) and the models struggling to walk on their disproportionate platforms do not have the ardor drag queens from RuPaul's Drag Race.
Here, few pieces have a commercial aim, the strategy of Puig, the owner group specializing in perfume, is probably to restore visibility to the brand in order to boost sales of its fragrances.
H.G.
5:30 p.m.
On the morning of Victoria Beckham's second Parisian show, a few journalists came to gather the British star's impressions of her collection.
"I remembered my memories of being a little girl when I played dress up with my mother's clothes
," she says.
This wardrobe for next winter is therefore a clever mix of reality and fantasy. I looked for a certain dissonance.”
She also cites the documentary
Gray Garden
(1975) and the film
Blow-Up as inspiration.
(1966).
Indeed, on the catwalk, it gives a desirable silhouette not devoid of creativity.
A skilful blend of refinement (silk pleated sun dresses with plunging necklines studded with large feathers), and sobriety (perfectly tailored suits and
oversized
sweaters just the right amount), all sprinkled with a hint of
so British eccentricity!
The fringes of certain outfits, pumps and jewelry are made of hair.
A recipe that should take the former Spice Girl to success.
GV
Saturday, March 4, 9:30 a.m.
For a generation of French people,
Kashmir
by Led Zeppelin de bon matin evokes the great hours of
Téléfoot,
TF1's Sunday broadcast.
It's a safe bet that Junya Watanabe has never heard of Thierry Gilardi, his presenter.
At the Louvre Oratory, the Japanese presents, on a live version of the piece, almost dystopian silhouettes of explorers of the future with masked faces, advancing on the narrow podium, draped in impressive technical jackets, superimposed pockets, vests, zips and other pieces of mesh that are more sculpture than clothing.
Then come superb deconstructed leathers, then kinds of down jackets wrapped around the body like camisoles.
Virtuoso.
MMZ
17 hours
"Go back to the beginning."
This is how the brilliant Rei Kawakubo deciphers this Comme des Garçons fashion show.
Eleven tableaux, with a soundtrack that changes abruptly each time, from Siouxsie and the Banshees to Can via Ellen Allien and the experimental jazz of Sun Ra.
On the catwalk, the poetry of a dress embroidered with puffy flowers, a completely deconstructed suit jacket, superimposed layers of crinolines, fabrics that float and hold as if by a miracle.
A world apart.
MMZ
We convinced the leaders of the religious institution that takes care of it by explaining the theme of the collection, we talked to them a lot about films
Bruno Sialelli
Sunday, March 5, 10 a.m.
The Lanvin fashion show takes place under the vaults of the Collège des Bernardins, a former Cistercian convent which, until now, had not yet hosted Fashion Week.
"We convinced the heads of the religious institution that takes care of it by explaining the theme of the collection, we talked to them a lot about films, Possession (
1981)
by Andrzej Zulawski, and
Perceval le Gallois (1979)
de Rohmer”
, says after the show, Bruno Sialelli, the artistic director of the oldest French fashion house.
A beautiful movie set for a locker room built like a movie.
“But not according to an academic narration
,” he continues.
It's more about emotion, sensation, each silhouette is a very distinct character, like the candid, the maleficent, the ingenuous, etc.
The place, the music, it all tells a story that is made to be interpreted by everyone.
Let's face it, we haven't deciphered the scenario.
The fact remains that the slit, draped and very low-cut cocktail dresses, entirely re-embroidered with glass bows or braided with silk ribbons, with airy gores edged with lace and lurex velvet are incredibly precious.
While Lanvin should be listed on Wall Street at the beginning of the summer, how does the Marseillais, appointed three years ago to head the collections, feel?
I am very comfortable with being understood or misunderstood.
My work consists of an exploration of house codes that takes time.
This collection is a table of contents of what Lanvin is.
Not so much in terms of heritage and heritage but rather in the contrasts of fabrics, styles, colors, textures.
This tension is very Lanvin.
VG