Rick Owens' anti-red carpet

Rick Owens has long remained an insider secret.

Its supple leathers, its sculptural silhouette, its universe of dark beauty fascinate a circle of enthusiasts that has continued to grow in recent years.

Now, adored by a generation of pop stars, he is also on all the

.

Next winter's collection has enough to continue to seduce celebrities in search of fashion credibility.

But it is also more than that: the demonstration of a wardrobe that is at the same time ultra-qualitative, eco-responsible, unique, authentic and radical.

Who else can boast of possessing all these qualities?

In the raw volumes of the Palais de Tokyo, the very high podium raises the eyes of the guests towards the huge models in low angle, while the mist (produced by smoke machines) licks their feet.

Some girls have black contact lenses obscuring the white of the eye, others have geisha-like shimada buns.

Their legs seem endless, heightened by dramatic wedge boots and hip-length slit skirts.

They wrap themselves in embroidered capes,

sweep the floor with their denim trains, put on chasubles of superbly shredded fabric, wrap themselves in a kind of matte sequin eiderdown.

Some sequins rise up like scales, creating accidents in the color flats of soft pink, chartreuse green and burgundy.

Felted wools and recycled cashmeres are certified;

incredibly supple lamb skins, vegetable tanned in Italy;

Japanese indigo denim washed with minerals… Backstage, the American told

that he wanted this collection

In the legendary 1955 photo, the no less famous model wears a dress designed for Christian Dior by the young Yves Saint Laurent, who was in search of a classicism of his time.

Like Owens, who knows how to create disruptive elegance better than anyone.