When, Monday, February 27, Guy Savoy saw that Gwendal Poullennec was trying to reach him on his cell phone, he thought that the director of the Michelin Guide was going to ask him to come and give some prize in Strasbourg.
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He was in the mountains with dear friends, a thousand miles from expecting the conversation that was to follow.
“The Guide will continue to recommend you in its 2023 edition… with two stars”
, announces his interlocutor.
“At 70, we can expect more terrible news
,” retorts the chef of the Hôtel de la Monnaie (Paris), two decades of three stars on the counter, for six years the best restaurant in the world according to La Liste (
our editions of February 28
).
Beyond the stoicism of his reply, the anecdote says a lot about Michelin's methods, which have gone from the paternalism of yesteryear to the very contemporary marketing of terror.
Read also3-star chefs Guy Savoy and Christopher Coutanceau downgraded by Michelin
Result: the leaders are afraid, especially when they see on whom, without warning, bad luck falls.
Since he lost the monopoly...
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