Abya Restaurant, proposals to share that are adorned with worn clichés and pretentious adjectives

The new Abya restaurant, which after an investment of 50 million euros occupies the historic Saldaña palace in Madrid, evolves throughout the day under the effect of the discotheque musical rhythms that flood its dining rooms at certain time slots.

Ornate interior design spaces, governed by a mestizo menu, with bombastic statements, illustrated with details of Mexican cuisine influenced by the recent owner of this property, the Mexican businessman Manuel González, built in 1903.

As a whole, these are casual proposals, mostly designed for sharing, which are adorned with worn-out clichés and pretentious adjectives.

Responsible for the kitchens is Aurelio Morales, who achieved a Michelin star at the Cebo restaurant in the Urban hotel in Madrid, and who undertakes the new project freed from the obsessive creative challenge that has marked his past career.

Repairs aside, a few days after the inauguration, and despite the volumes that the place requires, the kitchen meets its objectives.

Aurelio Morales, head of the Abya kitchens. JOSÉ SALTO

The sea bass ceviche is as smooth as the cold cream of zucchini and jalapeños, two good starters.

Just as convincing as the crispy corn pizzitas with seasoned tuna sashimi.

More difficult to understand is the so-called Japanese salad, with the appearance of an

ingot covered by a

A-5 sheet whose base is occupied by a layer of white rice whose uncomfortable texture and distorts its flavor.

With the

, caramelized black cod balls, an attempt is made to pay homage to the famous dish of the famous chef Nobu.

Correct bites, although too sweet, that reinterpret the original to another level.

Japanese Wagyu A-5 salad, blown, Kagoshima origin.JOSÉ SALTO

The pretentiousness that at intervals frames Abya's offer reaches its zenith with the list of croquettes, all identical, very fine, which are offered with three decorations that modify their status: with edible gold leaf (“the elegant ones”);

with caviar (“the splendid ones”) and with ham (“the usual ones”).

A way to subordinate the results to appearances.

Evil.

Good sense returns with the

hamburgers with Iberian veil, which is influenced by the quality of the

bread from the Panadarío workshop.

And he continues with the Madrid-style sea bream loin, which is given a successful point.

No less accomplished than the Andalusian sole tacos with piquín chile cream, where the subtlety of the corn tortillas surprises.

Half a Wagyu burger (100 grams), with Iberian ham, smoked cheese and Abya sauce.JOSÉ SALTO

The nonsense returns with force with the supposed

creamy truffle and gold

that is not.

It has the density of a rice pudding on whose surface the letter A is lettered in gold dust. What type of diners do you want to impress?

The desserts (corn flan with black truffle; chocolate cenote with various temperatures) more than meet.

Just like the winery, managed by Jacinto Domenech, from the old Cebo team.

The coffee is magnificent and the Iberian bell pepper ham and Panadarío bread are exceptional.

For multiple reasons, Abya aims to become a successful venue cornered by contradictions.

One of the rooms of the Abya restaurant, in Madrid. JOSÉ SALTO

Abya Restaurant

• Address:

  Ortega y Gasset street, 32. Madrid.

• Telephone:

  910 05 43 04.

• Web:

  abya.es.

• Closes:

  it does not close, it has uninterrupted hours from 1:30 p.m. to 02:00 a.m.

• Price:

  between 120 and 150 euros per person.

  Ham croquettes, 16 euros;

  wild sea bass and hoja santa ceviche, 23 euros;

  Madrid-style sea bream, 55 euros;

  'wagyu' hamburger (100 grams) with Iberian veil, 21 euros;

  chocolate cenote, 14 euros.

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