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Archestrate restaurant in Paris: an overly wise tribute to new cuisine


GASTRONOMIC CRITICISM - Close to what was the cult address of Alain Senderens (7th), a young chef mixes chic trattoria recipes and bourgeois dishes. But where is the audacity of the 1970s?

Let's start with a time that those under twenty (or even thirty and even forty) cannot know.

The one where, in 1968, rue de Varenne, Paris 7th, a micro table curiously baptized the Archestrate prepares to panic the capital before magnetizing the culinary planet.

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No one then knows the name of this Greek poet, presumed father of gastronomy.

Even less that of the chef who activates the stoves;

a certain Alain Senderens, soon destined for a legendary destiny.

We might as well admit that launching today, a stone's throw from the cult address, a house called by the same Archestrate is either audacity or amnesia.

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It will be daring and even homage since we quickly learn that the owner of the place is a former chef.

The room is not much larger than at the time of that of Senderens and the decor just as unobtrusive in its very tidy middle-class style.

So there remains the thread of the stoves, the frame of the plates, this momentum that grew, over the years...

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Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2023-03-23

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