Every day we use
soaps, lotions, deodorants
, hair products and cosmetics on different parts of the body.
But in recent years, an increasing number of reports have raised concerns about many of them.
Researchers have detected
dangerous levels of mercury
in skin lightening and antiaging creams;
chemicals in hair dyes and hair straighteners have been linked to breast and uterine cancer;
fragrances in soaps and shampoos have been linked to poor semen quality and fertility problems.
Most American children are also exposed to toxic chemicals—from a wide variety of sources—that can cause
learning
and developmental disorders, obesity, and asthma.
Of course, not all chemicals are bad for you.
And you're just as likely to find unsafe chemicals in processed foods and beverages, household furnishings, and even prescription drugs as you are in personal hygiene products.
But low doses of dubious chemicals
can accumulate over time
and with exposure to multiple products, says Dr. Shruthi Mahalingaiah, associate professor of environmental, reproductive, and women's health at the Harvard TH Chan School of Public Health.
Cosmetics and personal care products are very loosely regulated.
Companies often garnish labels with words like
"naturally derived," "non-toxic," and "clean,"
which sound nice but are really just marketing terms.
How is the average consumer going to know which chemicals can harm him?
Even experts don't agree on how much exposure to a chemical is too much.
And the evidence to check individual exposure levels is
very limited
.
But the researchers say people should choose products that don't increase overall toxin exposure when and where they can.
This is especially important when the body undergoes crucial cellular and hormonal changes, such as during pregnancy
, early childhood, and puberty
.
You don't have to change your entire routine overnight.
In fact, many researchers who study environmental toxins admit that they still retain some favorite
creams and sprays
with dubious ingredients.
Switching to safer personal care products is seen by most as a
slow and ongoing process
, similar to eating healthier food: you can take stock of what you put into or put into your body from time to time and update your shopping basket. shopping with better options every time you purchase new items.
Here's where to start.
Makeup may contain phthalates.
Photo Shutterstock.
What chemicals are of concern
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which oversees cosmetic products in the United States, has banned a dozen ingredients for safety reasons.
Canada, Japan, and the countries of the European Union have
hundreds of other chemicals
that they have banned.
In the United States, chemical substances must meet a high level of requirements regarding their harmfulness to humans.
For example, many animal and some human studies have linked cancer later in life with exposure to many of the chemicals listed below, but they remain legal and ubiquitous because there is still insufficient evidence
. strong
to demonstrate a causal effect.
Several states, including California and Maryland, have enacted laws that take effect in January 2025 that ban other chemicals based on mounting evidence against them.
Although this is not an exhaustive list, here are
some common chemicals
mentioned in recent state bans, as well as others frequently noted by researchers and consumer advocacy groups.
These chemicals appear in the ingredient lists of products that contain them.
Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA)
What it is:
BHA is commonly used as a preservative in personal care products that contain oils or fats, such as lipsticks, eyeliners, and moisturizers.
It is considered a
possible human carcinogen
by several groups, including the World Health Organization's International Agency for Research on Cancer, the US National Toxicology Program, and the California Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment , which compiles the Proposition
65 list of harmful chemicals
that businesses must warn their customers about.
Its relative, butylated hydroxytoluene, or BHT, is considered slightly less toxic, but has also been subject to regulation in Europe and Japan.
Coal tar tinctures such as M-, O-, and P-Phenylenediamine
what is
.
Coal tar is a thick brown-black liquid.
m-Phenylenediamine, o-phenylenediamine, and p-phenylenediamine are compounds that were originally derived from coal tar and are now often produced synthetically.
They are frequently found in hair dyes.
The darker the tincture, the more phenylenediamine it usually contains.
What the research says.
Coal tar dyes can cause allergic reactions or skin irritation that can lead to hair loss.
Epidemiologic data have also linked some coal tar tinctures with an increased risk of developing non-Hodgkin lymphoma, multiple myeloma, acute leukemia, and bladder cancer.
Products containing more than trace amounts of m-I-phenylenediamine will be banned in California and Maryland by 2025.
Diethanolamine (DEA)
What is it.
DEA is one of a group of chemicals frequently used as emulsifiers in creamy or foamy products, such as shampoos and shaving creams.
Its relatives are monoethanolamine (MEA) and triethanolamine (TEA).
What the research says.
These compounds often react with other preservatives in personal care products to form nitrosamines, which are chemicals that the International Agency for Research on Cancer and the US National Toxicology Program identify as "reasonably foreseeable human carcinogens." ".
Due to the potential for this reaction, DEA is banned in cosmetics in Europe and Canada, and consumer advocates recommend avoiding other ethanolamines as well.
It is not necessary to change the entire routine overnight, they say.
Photo Shutterstock.
Formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers
What is it.
Formaldehyde is a strong-smelling chemical used to extend the life of some cosmetics, hair straighteners, and nail polish.
Some companies have started to go formaldehyde-free, but other preservatives that prevent the growth of bacteria in water-based personal hygiene products, such as baby shampoos and body washes, can release formaldehyde over time.
These include DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, glyoxal, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, and quaternium-15.
What the research says.
Exposure to low levels of formaldehyde vapors is known to irritate the eyes, nose, and throat, while higher exposures, especially over longer periods of time, have been linked to cancers of the nose and throat, as well as other ailments in certain workers, such as hairdressers and manicurists.
Formaldehyde, paraformaldehyde, and quaternium-15 are included in the California and Maryland bans.
fragrances
What is it.
Fragrance formulas are considered trade secrets, which means companies can hide any number of chemical ingredients under the terms "fragrance" or "perfume."
A product label can say "unscented" and still include one of these terms in the ingredient list, since some fragrance compounds can be used as colorants, solvents, or stabilizers for active ingredients, or to mask other undesirable odors in a product. product.
What the research says.
According to the International Fragrance Association, there are more than 3,600 chemicals used in fragrance blends around the world.
These include chemicals that environmental exposure researchers and toxicologists agree should be avoided, such as benzophenone, BHA, naphthalene, and phthalates.
Other fragrance ingredients can cause skin allergies, eczema, nasal irritation and asthma.
Studies on some of the chemicals in fragrances, such as diethyl phthalate and musk ketones, have also suggested that they can disrupt normal hormonal function, which has been linked to ovarian failure and sperm damage.
Isobutane, propane and other propellants
What is it.
Isobutane is a component of natural gas and crude oil that is commonly used as a propellant in aerosol sprays, like many of the recently recalled dry shampoos, sunscreens, and deodorants.
Isobutane is not usually a concern on its own, but benzene, a known carcinogen also found in crude oil, has frequently contaminated it, as have other petroleum-derived propellants such as butane and propane.
What the research says.
According to the World Health Organization, "there is no safe level of exposure" to benzene in the air we breathe.
In the short term, elevated levels of benzene can cause headaches, dizziness, vomiting, and rapid heartbeat.
Chronic exposure can have more serious effects, slowing the production of red blood cells and damaging the white blood cells critical to the immune system.
Studies have also shown that benzene exposure causes various types of leukemias.
Parabens
What are they.
Compounds that have "paraben" in their name, such as methylparaben and propylparaben, are another group of preservatives used in water-based products.
Low concentrations of parabens are found in shampoos and conditioners, facial washes, toothpastes, and other cosmetics.
What the research says.
Animal studies have shown that parabens tend to mimic the effects of the hormone estrogen, and in human studies exposure to parabens has been linked to increased incidence of breast cancer in women, as well as impaired reproductive systems in men.
California and Maryland have banned isobutylparaben and isopropylparaben in cosmetics, effective January 2025, but other types, such as methylparaben and ethylparaben, will remain unregulated.
Phthalates
What are they.
Phthalates are a class of chemicals commonly found in various vinyl plastics.
They are also used in eyelash glues, as well as some makeup and other fragranced personal care products.
What the research says.
In 2008, after these chemicals were shown to alter hormone function and impair fertility, the US Consumer Product Safety Commission restricted six types of phthalates in toys and child care products.
Since then, many manufacturers of personal care products have phased out the direct use of phthalates.
Two types will be banned in California and Maryland: dibutyl phthalate (DBP) and diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP).
Polyethylene glycols (PEGS)
What are they.
PEGs are chemicals used to thicken liquid hand soaps, foundations, and creams.
They are also used to improve the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.
What the research says.
Due to the way they are made, PEGs are often contaminated with ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, which have been linked to long-term cancer.
talcum powder
What is it.
Talc is a naturally occurring mineral that is used to absorb moisture and dull makeup.
It became famous after thousands of lawsuits claimed that Johnson & Johnson baby powder caused cancer.
The company stopped selling the product in North America in 2020 and said it would stop selling it worldwide in 2023. But other manufacturers continue to use talc in powder foundations, eye shadows, blotting cloths and deodorants.
What the research says.
Scientific literature dating back to the 1960s and 1970s suggests that the use of talc, especially in the pelvic area, is linked to cancer.
There is also concern that the talc may be contaminated with asbestos, a known carcinogen found near talc mines.
The FDA annually tests cosmetics containing talc for the presence of asbestos, but the number of products the agency tests is extremely limited, typically 50 or fewer samples.
toluene
What is it.
Toluene is a colorless liquid found in crude oil.
It is used in the formulation of adhesives, nail products, and hair dyes.
What the research says.
Studies have linked chronic toluene exposure to nervous system damage that can affect hearing, color vision, concentration, and memory.
Some research suggests that toluene may also decrease the immune response.
California Proposition 65 considers this chemical to cause harm to human development.
Triclosan may be present in toothpastes and mouthwashes.
Photo Shutterstock.
Triclosan and tricolcarban
What are they.
Triclosan and triclocarban are antimicrobial agents once found in hand and body washes and are still found in many toothpastes, deodorants, and personal care items.
What the research says.
In a ruling that took effect in 2017, the FDA banned the use of triclosan, triclocarban, and other antimicrobial agents in soaps, but not in other products.
According to the agency, the addition of these chemicals to soap has not been shown to be effective and the safety of their long-term use is unclear.
Animal studies, for example, have suggested that triclosan is associated with a decrease in some thyroid hormones.
There is also evidence to suggest that excessive use of antimicrobial products such as triclosan induces bacterial resistance to important antibiotic drugs.
Consider how you use these products
Remember that in most cases,
the size of the dose
determines whether something is harmful to your health.
You don't need to immediately throw away all your soaps and serums.
"It's easy to demonize a product or a source of exposure, but really the goal is to
reduce the total body burden
," says Dr. Mahalingaiah.
Instead of trying to completely eliminate one chemical from your life, count how many products with questionable ingredients are in your routine and
start cutting back
.
You can repeat the process every month or so to keep reducing your exposure as much as possible.
"One approach is to reduce products that are put
directly on the skin
and remain on the skin for long periods of time," explains Ami Zota, an associate professor of Environmental Health Sciences at UC Mailman School of Public Health. Columbia University.
Therefore, it is better
to examine
the ingredients of a lipstick or a moisturizer with a magnifying glass than those of a product that is applied to the hair or rinsed immediately.
According to Zota, you can also cut back on harsh products you've used for years or decades, while giving yourself a breather with a new product you only use once in a while.
Many products with harsh chemicals are targeted primarily at black women, Zota said.
Their studies and other research have consistently shown that women have higher levels of potentially harmful chemicals in their bodies and a
higher risk of developing cancer
and reproductive health problems compared to white women.
Surveys show that many black women start using chemical hair straighteners
before the age of 10
.
And skin lightening products are especially popular among women of African, Indian, Middle Eastern, and Southeast Asian descent.
"Race-based beauty standards greatly influence the products we use and how often we use them," she says.
Many researchers and advocates now advocate
embracing natural hair
and eliminating unnecessary skin care steps.
Query a database
You can search for a product by name or barcode on the
Environmental Working Group
and
Think Dirty
apps to find ingredients of concern.
They also provide a score based on the number of hazards associated with various chemicals.
The Clearya
browser extension
and the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics'
Non-Toxic Black Beauty Database
have similar offerings.
Although these databases indicate the presence of some health hazards, the scores do not take into account
how or how often a product is used
, which means that they cannot give a general idea of possible risk.
"Often the answer
is not black or white
," says Amit Rosner, CEO and co-founder of Clearya.
"It's somewhere in the middle, and each person can make different decisions around what they perceive to be their personal risk."
You may decide to pay more attention to the chemical risks of products you use daily, but take a breather with products you use once a week or less.
Other people only substitute products that have caused skin irritations or other reactions in the past.
Look for third-party certifications
Some third-party certifications and seals of approval are intended to help consumers find the best alternatives amid aisles of competing products.
For example, "USDA Organic" may denote products made with organic ingredients, while "COSMOS Natural" products are audited based not only on their ingredients, but also on their green packaging and manufacturing processes.
All of these labels are a little different from one another, explains Gloria Lu, consulting chemist for cosmetics companies and co-founder of the skin care science blog Chemist Confessions.
The definition of what is "clean" is rapidly evolving
.
"Each retailer or certifying organization may have their own definition of what clean means."
If a product or brand doesn't have one of these seals of approval, that doesn't automatically mean it's toxic, he said.
In some cases, companies have to pay a fee to get approved for a label like "EWG Verified."
And small beauty and personal care businesses may choose not to become certified due to cost.
They recommend checking the labels.
Photo Shutterstock.
Call for more transparency and stricter policies
Some experts say that supporting companies that are more transparent about fragrance blends and choosing "cleaner" ingredients over traditional ones will help bring about broader change.
Consumers can also
report adverse reactions to products
by
contacting manufacturers, calling an FDA consumer complaint coordinator, or completing an FDA voluntary MedWatch form
.
They can ask companies to clearly publish the results of tests in which contaminants are detected and in which products or batches they are found.
Also, approach independent laboratories to suggest products or ingredients that should undergo more rigorous testing.
But many experts say that stronger FDA oversight is the only way to ensure the safety of products before we come into intimate contact with them.
It must be stressed that consumers are in this difficult situation," says Zota, "because this huge industry is
very poorly regulated
”.
©The New York Times
Translation: Patricia Sar
***
Do you want to read more about this topic?
These notes may interest you:
➪Endocrine disruptors alert: what are they, how can they affect health and a key question: can they be avoided?
➪Precocious puberty: what factors accelerate it, why it grew in a pandemic and how it is treated
➪Thyroid: the dos and don'ts of the gland that regulates metabolism
➪Phthalates, the substances present in plastics that can accelerate puberty: where they are found
Bisphenol A: how to avoid the risks of BPA in plastic bottles, containers and purchase receipts
***
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