A handful of restaurants and other oriental cuisine outlets sprang up like mushrooms in the outskirts of Madrid's Gran Vía shortly before the pandemic.
Today, some resurface and others are released.
And the phenomenon pervades half of Madrid.
They are found in avenues, alleys and even in a market in the capital.
They surprise with classic autochthonous elaborations and modern experiments where fusion cuisine also fits.
We will visit 13 new enclaves and their surroundings with six world cuisines as protagonists: those of China, Korea, India, Japan, Lebanon and Vietnam, in a centrally located
tour
.
With its pluses and minuses, there is life beyond ramen.
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China: between steamers and sea bass
1.Hunan
One of the specialties of the Hunan Chinese restaurant, near Madrid's Gran Vía.Carlos Marques
In Madrid there are hundreds of international cuisine establishments.
Proof of this are the multiple websites and applications for reservations and gastronomic reviews.
Chinese restaurants monopolize a large part of the offer, and not only in the Usera neighbourhood, where they abound.
The variety of its gastronomy and its colorful dishes once again attract all eyes.
We are in the TriBall, the central area that is hidden at the ridge of Gran Vía, known for its urban regeneration and its wide range of alternative venues.
In 2018, he opened at the beginning of Ballesta Hunan street, a restaurant for a diverse public, decorated inside with wickerwork and wallpaper, which moves away from the more commercial concept.
It is known for reproducing one of the eight regional Chinese cuisines.
Spicy lovers and those faithful to aromatics will find ways to delight here.
Even the daring ones with some oddity, like frog or pig intestine.
On the menu there are refined proposals such as organic cauliflower casserole or steamed prawns with sweet potato noodles, which are served in traditional pans.
In addition, versions of stews, smoked, fried, braised... Nearby, and also in the millennial vein, is the Sichuan restaurant (Caballero de Gracia, 8).
Address: calle de la Ballesta, 4. Menu: from 30 euros.
2. Lanzhou Beef Noodles
Artisanal noodles from the Chinese restaurant Lanzhou Beef Noodles, in Madrid.LANDIS LIANG
Asian gastronomy is common in the culinary offer of the most central part of the city, with a large number of fast food establishments.
Heading to a neighboring movie alley in this intricate area, and in front of the famous
izakaya
Hattori Hanzo
(Innkeeper Romanos, 17), hides Lanzhou Beef Noodles, a tiny place with just 10 tables and a year old that registers queues at peak hours.
In the background, the chef kneads the noodle strips in the open kitchen, before pouring them into steaming pots.
What triumphs here are the Lanzhou beef noodles.
Every 10 dishes, overlooking the business, they give one free.
Address: Horno de la Mata crossing, 5. Lanzhou noodles: 7.50 euros.
3.Kung Fu
Interior of Chinese Kung Fu restaurant.
The smells and flavors of oriental cuisine, mostly framed in the Asian continent, pose a challenge for foreign palates.
In order to adapt to them, fusion attempts arise, as with Spanish gastronomy.
Leaving aside the remodeled Plaza de Soledad Torres Acosta, and some landmarks like the portentous Chinese El Buda Feliz 1974 (Tudescos, 5), there is another neighboring enclave that closes a triangle on the map for lovers of the exotic.
We take an adjoining street to enter Kung Fu, another authentic place with a chess floor that shows off a silhouette of a Bruce Lee cook in the background,
wielding a slotted spoon and a frying pan
.
Due to its ten tables, it is common to see native patriots sipping with chopsticks before a bowl
.
The service is Mandarin, although this time it is inspired by recipes from the Guizhou province (rival from Hunan and Lanzhou).
They are connoisseurs of Chinese-style sea bass served in pretty ceramics and washed down with Tsingtao beer.
They cook up classics like kung fu crab or orange Peking duck
.
Their sour soups are also worth it.
Among the sweets, we find the classic Japanese
mochi
or tapioca with coconut milk and mango.
Address: calle Luna, 12. Menu: 20-25 euros.
Korea: fried chicken and dumplings
4. Mama Uma
Korean restaurant Mama Uma, inside the Barceló Market.
From China to Korea, and from Callao to the neighboring Tribunal area, where we sneak inside the Barceló Market.
Upstairs, at the bottom of the escalator, is Mama Uma, a family-friendly Korean cuisine bar, which fills up by mid-afternoon.
“Korea is in fashion, although its gastronomy is unknown,” confesses Gonzalo Torres, 39, his lanky owner who loves superfoods and, according to him, from “a wild country for tourists.”
He returned to Spain two years ago to open this business with three basic dishes at affordable prices:
bibimbap
(rice, meat and vegetables), KFFC (fried chicken) and
dumplings,
a kind of empanadas.
To drink, it offers plum or rice wines.
The gastronomic stall formula in a market works even better in the neighboring Mercado de San Ildefonso (Fuencarral, 57), and a genuine
corner
like Akma Fusión, where they serve tenera
bulgogi and
kimchi
dishes
under the reddish light of a neon.
Address: Barceló Market (Barceló, 6).
From 4.90 euros.
India: five levels of spiciness
5. Masala Darbar
In the 1970s and 1980s, the first forays into international cuisine began in Madrid, and the now-defunct Chinese Zhou Yulong, among others, triumphed in the
Plaza de España
parking lot .
Also, the Japanese Musashi (Shells, 4), the famous
japotalego
Santo Domingo, and Donzoko (Echegaray, 3), in the Barrio de Las Letras.
In this last area, it is a good idea to explore one of the most popular cuisines: Indian, which has not only always been successful in the nearby Lavapiés neighborhood.
Since 2021, Masala Darbar invites you to an immersive adventure in the desert with walls that simulate dunes, although its owners are from Bangladesh.
Elaborate dishes circulate around its tables with up to five levels of spiciness and attention to allergens.
In its delicious repertoire there is no pork, but cheese or onion bread, rice such as basmati
,
various fish, vegetables, beef and the popular
chicken tandoori
(a spicy chicken dish) or
lamb balti
(lamb with curry
).
In addition, there are other vegetarian proposals: "
Veggie
always works," says Farhan Rasel, one of the local partners.
Half of his clients are English;
the other, Spaniards looking for “lighter cuisine”.
Perhaps as light as the Japanese.
Address: calle Huertas, 53. Tasting menu: 21.50 euros.
Japan: between ramen and lanterns
6. Art & Sushi
Bar of the Art&Sushi Japanese restaurant, a place where temporary exhibitions are also organized.
In Madrid the variety of international cuisine is mostly Asian and Latin.
In the midst of it all, the Japanese triumph.
It can be seen in any corner, even on the noble boulevard of Carranza, contained between the central roundabouts of Bilbao and San Bernardo.
Here is Art & Sushi, a fusion cuisine venue with low tables and temporary art exhibitions.
On the other side of the bar, busy chefs work cuts of sushi
, nigiris, temakis...
They also prepare tempura prawns, stuffed
baos
and ceviches
that are served between glasses of white wines and cavas.
As a counterpoint, in the neighboring La Uramakería (Manuela Malasaña, 3) they prepare sushi
combos
in containers to share and take away or deliver at home.
Address: calle Carranza, 9. Menus: 15,30 or 45 euros.
7. Tokyo ball
Osaka's typical flour balls, called 'takoyakis', are the stars of the Japanese restaurant Balon Tokio.
We went down to the popular area of Atocha to visit Balón Tokio, Ryuta Ichinohe's place.
What led this 29-year-old Japanese to change Tokyo for Madrid?
Essentially, making their famous Osaka flour dumplings or
takoyakis popular.
He started out in a shack next to Calle de Huertas with three tables, a bar, and an Asahi beer tap, where he offered his balls stuffed with octopus, vegetables, and ginger.
Now, he has replicated the business with
an elevator size store and a vending machine for orders.
To create them, they pour a dough into plates in the shape of egg cups and mold them with punches, and then they are served with sauces (Japanese, cheese
,
chili
,
sesame...).
There are also
onigiri (
rice balls) and
dorayakis
(sweet pancakes).
To drink, there is plum sake and green tea.
They hold a record: creating 600 balls for an event held at the Japanese Embassy in the capital.
Address: calle Echegaray, 29 and Tortosa, 6. 'Takoyakis': 6 units, 6.50 euros.
8.Igo Ramen
The Japanese lanterns and the manga aesthetic stand out in the Japanese gastronomy place Igo Ramen.
Returning to the outskirts of the Plaza de Callao, there is another new place worthy of
Lost in Translation
,
the Sofia Coppola film that ventured into Tokyo karaoke.
At Igo Ramen, ramen and
karaage
(chicken in batter) triumph, Japanese tunes play, Japanese lanterns shine on the wooden tables and the bar and napkins are decorated with manga drawings
.
They have another very Tokyo local on Tudescos street
,
with slogans in
LEDs
and waitresses dressed as geishas
.
Another nearby Japanese restaurant is Kaiten Sushi (San Bernardo, 10), with a revolving buffet.
Address: calle Navas de Tolosa, 9 and Tudescos, 4. Menu: from 12.95 euros.
9.Kippu
'Sukiyaki', from the Japanese restaurant Kippu, in the Salamanca district.
ALBERTO T.
What leads many to visit an Asian restaurant is possibly the idea of living a different experience.
After a tour of the center, we look at the Salamanca neighborhood.
On a journey back in time, we arrive at a local exposed brick that contrasts past and present.
At Kippu they receive some illuminated cubes on the bar and appetizing half meter trays with crunchy
Tempura Rolls
,
Miso Maguro Uramaki or the famous
gunkan
trio :
three pieces
genuine sirloin, butterfish and bull tuna.
It should be finished off with a sake cocktail, among the punctual
celebrity.
Two steps away is Tora (Padilla, 5), a Japanese haute cuisine restaurant.
Address: Calle General Pardiñas, 70. Keiken tasting menu: 50 euros.
10.Tori-Key
'Tsukune' dish from Tori-Key Japanese restaurant.
Hiroshi Kobayashi is another lively entrepreneur originally from Tokyo, 44 years old and about 10 of them lived in Spain.
His forte is the Galician free-range chicken with which he makes his
yakitori,
Japanese skewers.
In Tori-Key's menu there is no sushi or any type of raw fish, because he has opted for specializing in meat.
For this, he uses the charcoal grill.
He claims not to use glutamate (a flavor enhancer) or coloring.
He recommends the
tsukune,
his signature dish: a delicate skewer of minced chicken dipped in low-temperature cooked egg yolk.
In addition, he makes
gyozas
, rolls,
edamame
and desserts such as the green tea French toast with vanilla ice cream.
Kobayashi went through El Chaflán and Miyama, and today runs his exclusive tavern near Santa Engracia street.
Address: Plaza Descubridor Diego de Ordás, 12. From 45 euros.
11.umiko
The cooks of the Japanese restaurant Umiko, in Madrid: Juan Alcaide and Pablo Álvaro Marcos (on the right).
Chef Alberto Chicote's yakitori
skewers
and Ricardo Sanz's Japanese fusion cuisine paved the way for culinary innovation in the sector.
Since then, the dynamic has not stopped.
Juan Alcaide and Pablo Álvaro Marcos are a duo of chefs seasoned in Madrid's kitchens who have garnered a Repsol Sun with their new restaurant Umiko, a stone's throw from the Congress of Deputies.
In their lounge and on the futuristic bar they serve delicacies from cuisines from the East and the West, such as shrimp ramen or
paella
nigiri .
On the same street they have opened Umiko Bake, a pastry shop that fuses national and Japanese sweets.
Kitchen of the Japanese restaurant Zuma, in Madrid's Plaza de Colón.
A little further on, towards Plaza de Colón, Zuma has also opened, in the old Hard Rock Café.
It is a branch of the chain, with both sushi and
robata
bars , house music and a modern atmosphere
.
A little further on are Sibuya (Ibiza, 33) and Casa Srito (Marqués de Riscal, 6).
Address: Calle Los Madrazo, 6. From 85 euros.
Lebanon: Beirut on the table
12. Mune
Image of various dishes from the Lebanese restaurant Mune, in Madrid.
We cross Alcalá street to enter the Chueca neighborhood.
It is seen: each area treasures its offer.
Amongst the crowd, the thousand and one bars, fashion shops and art galleries, the Lebanese designer Dalia Nahas has recreated an exposed brick venue in the shape of a Lebanese tavern.
Ella mune sports solid Beirut ceramics and serves up delicacies like the colorful
Fatush
Salad or the
Kafta Bitahini,
a dish of lamb meatballs with
tahini
sauce and basmati rice.
There are vegetarian
mezzes
to share, and the sturdy central table is shared as well.
They offer grilled sirloin, desserts and Lebanese wines.
and
brunch
the
Saturdays (from 11:00 to 13:00).
They have opened with another beautiful venue on Calle del Prado, in the Las Letras neighborhood.
Address: Calle Pelayo, 57 and Prado, 3. From 30 euros.
'Brunch': 20 euros.
Vietnam: rolls and adaptations
13.Vietnam
Image of various dishes from Vietnamese restaurant Vietnam.
We end the tour on the central street of Huertas, in a neighborhood that contains its surprises, such as Yugo The Bunker (San Blas, 4), with a Michelin star since 2019, which recreates a World War II bunker.
The Vietnamese owners of the also authentic Vietnam restaurant laid the egg nine years ago, but now they are renewing themselves by also offering their repertoire at home.
They serve traditional cuisine among beautiful crafts and exotic wallpaper.
Rolls in all their varieties and vegetarian dishes rule here, such as
Bun bo Nam Bo Chay,
based on tofu.
They make adaptations with sirloin, Iberian secret or scallops.
And they boast that their clients are 80% Spanish.
Nothing like dreaming of traveling on a plate.
Address: calle Huertas, 4. Menu: from 13.90 euros.
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