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“Top Chef”: we tested Nonos the restaurant of Paul Pairet at the Crillon

2023-04-19T05:44:19.904Z


The three-starred chef living in Shanghai has opened his establishment in Paris. Since his arrival in “Top Chef” in 2020, Paul Pairet has won the hearts of the French. The Catalan and his famous cap seduced the public in the competition with his humor and kindness. Also by his talent, even if he had hitherto mainly expressed himself far from our borders. Read alsoThe “Top Chef” notebook: why Danny Khezzar must win season 14 Three stars in Shanghai After having worked in Hon


Since his arrival in “Top Chef” in 2020, Paul Pairet has won the hearts of the French.

The Catalan and his famous cap seduced the public in the competition with his humor and kindness.

Also by his talent, even if he had hitherto mainly expressed himself far from our borders.

Read alsoThe “Top Chef” notebook: why Danny Khezzar must win season 14

Three stars in Shanghai

After having worked in Hong Kong, Sydney, Jakarta, Istanbul and Shanghai (with a detour to Paris in 1998), it was in the Chinese megalopolis that he obtained the holy grail: three Michelin stars for his restaurant Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet where he offers a unique culinary and immersive experience.

In 2019, he returned to France with the idea of ​​taking over the restaurant La Samaritaine and then Le Relais Plaza, but both projects failed.

In the meantime, he made himself known in France by becoming a juror in the M6 ​​culinary competition.

Three years later, he is finally at the head of a Parisian table.


Last March, he took over the reins of the former Aumont brewery within the Hôtel de Crillon… without losing his sense of humor since he named the place Nonos!

You had to dare in a palace.

“Nonos corresponds well to the project, that is to say a simple kitchen in a rather majestic place.

This name brings a sympathetic side and recalls the base of this restaurant, namely a steak house”

, he specifies.

The episode of “Top Chef”, broadcast this Wednesday, April 19, takes place precisely in this mythical Parisian hotel.

During several challenges, the candidates will have to meet the most incongruous requirements of the customers.

Read alsoBistrot Top Chef: behind the scenes of the evening with Danny Khezzar in the kitchen

Catalunya at a glance

To compose his menu, Paul Pairet did not go incongruous but rather in the classic of very high flight, drawing inspiration directly from the traditional grill restaurants of hotels of yesteryear but also from the dishes he offers in its breweries located in Shanghai that are Polux and Mr & Mrs Bund.

“There are rather long menus mixing small international hits and French dishes almost like home cooking.

We serve simple things with sustained attention”

, he continues.

In fact, the butter radishes offered as aperitifs remain in their skins but are embellished with “Polux” butter made from soy sauce, lemon and Isigny hazelnut butter.

So greedy.

Some aperitif starters smell of Catalonia, a nod to this Perpignan native, such as re-grilled piquillo pimientos, skewers of olives and anchovies from Collioure or “ass of beef” ham.

“I worked on it for over six months in Shanghai.

(...) I like it so much that I almost opened a soufflé bar in China!

»

Paul Pairet on the recipe for his soufflés

For starters, the traditional tartars and croutons or mimosa eggs tuna anchovies compete with leeks with vinaigrette and hazelnuts.

Simple and yet delicious.

The secret ?

Roast the leek and gently confit it before burning the underside a little.

Another must-have on the Nonos menu: the real Gruyère soufflé, unmolded and cut in front of the guests.

Elegant and airy, it is a model of indulgence.

The chef, who does not use a gram of flour in his recipe, took some time to find the perfect harmony.

“I worked on it for over six months in Shanghai.

For smoothness, I use a siphon.

It is very digestible and we add an insert inside.

It is also offered as a dessert with chocolate or Grand-Marnier and passion fruit.

I love it so much that I almost opened a soufflé bar in China!

»

The meats, stars of the restaurant

This cozy and warm place with impeccable service can accommodate up to 53 people, including five at the bar.

It has been completely redesigned by the owner, from the art of the table to the playlist.

Installed comfortably, the guests follow the incessant ballet of the waiters who cut here and there magnificent pieces of meat, real stars of the place.

From the very affordable steak and fries at 28 euros to the Wagyu strip loin at 140 euros, including a mixed grill of all meats at 88 euros or the Teriyaki lacquered rib of beef (58 euros), the chef's signature dish with an incomparable fondant, the menu offers something for all tastes.

All with sharp accompaniments like spinach with sesame or regressive like ham shells or traditional mash.

The fish are not forgotten and in particular the XL meunière sole on black skin weighing almost a kilo to share (150 euros) or the American-style lobster fricassee.

Other more atypical dishes linked to the identity of the chef also have a good place like the Buntut soup, deliciously flavored and very complete, which immediately transports you to Asia.

The waiter whispers in our ear that this recipe would echo a very personal memory of the chef: his first wife, of Indonesian origin, would have concocted this dish for him and he would have fallen in love with her while tasting it.

Read alsoPaul Pairet: “I open a steak frites, without any Michelin ambition!”

A dozen desserts to choose from allow you to end the meal in style with the deliciously regressive rice pudding or the unmissable chocolate soufflé.

The satiated ones will find their happiness thanks to the refreshing earl gray mango and vanilla granita.

A successful bet for Paul Pairet who imagined Nonos as a place of sharing and conviviality open to all with a very varied menu both in terms of dishes and prices.

The three-starred chef has created a welcoming restaurant nestled in a luxurious hotel by combining simplicity and fine gastronomy.

Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2023-04-19

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