A new Argentine crew from the cocktail universe disembarked in Barcelona on May 5. This is the latest opening of the renowned bartender Renato 'Tato' Giovannoni: Florería Atlántico, the best bar in our country according to the World's 50 Best Bars list, has just opened a branch in the ultra-trendy El Born neighborhood in Barcelona.
A decade ago, when Florería Atlántico emerged in the Retiro neighborhood, Giovannoni opted for an original move: opening a bar hidden in a basement behind the façade of a flirtatious wine bar and flower shop on Arroyo Street. Customers did not delay in crossing the door that opened the way to the best signature cocktails and Buenos Aires dishes with vinyl music played by well-known DJs.
Thus Florería became the incubator of a whole new generation of bartenders, sommeliers and chefs and also a large playground for Giovannoni to launch his own spirits: for example, the first Argentine premium gin, Prince of the Apostles.
How is Florería Atlántico Barcelona
Tato Giovannoni in Florería Atlántico Barcelona. Photos: Judit Murphy Burgos Roca
The renowned bartender – who in this business has as partners the Argentine gastronomic entrepreneur Alex Resnik and the super prestigious chef Mauro Colagreco, all part of The Hierophant Group – says that the project arose unexpectedly.
"Neither Barcelona nor Spain were in the pipeline but someone offered me this place in October when I came for the World's 50 Best. We liked it a lot and decided to call Diego Cabrera," he says.
Cabrera is another Argentine member of this crew. Established in Madrid for seven years with his bar Salmón Guru (currently ranked 15th on the World's 50 Best Bars list) he was the obvious figure to add. Also in the project is Leo Lanussol, former chef-owner of the now closed Proper Buenos Aires.
The bar of Florería Atlántico Barcelona. Photos: Judit Murphy Burgos Roca
"Everything moved fast," says Giovannoni. "We were here with Alex two months ago and three days ago we opened Florería Atlántico and Brasero Atlántico in El Born, on Avenida Marqués de la Argentera 19, in front of Francia station. The truth is that the location is incredible," he is proud.
Behind the inauguration there is a multicultural team – Argentines, Uruguayans, Italians and Germans – of 27 people. In charge of the kitchen is Chula Aquista, who previously led Las Patriotas, Giovannoni's gastrobar in Palermo, while fellow Argentine Nahuel Celano is the bar boss.
The wines of Florería and Brasero Atlántico in Barcelona. Photos: Judit Murphy Burgos Roca
Launching into the old world is not something minor and although there are similarities between the premises of Florería Atlántico on both sides of the ocean – like its brother in Buenos Aires, the new bar is located in a basement and is also accompanied by a Catalan version of Brasero – there are also differences.
"There are things that one always wanted to do in Buenos Aires, but sometimes because they were open 10 years ago, because of complexities, they cannot be carried out. In Barcelona, the bar below is made with seaweed instead of wood, for example," he tells Giovannoni.
The setting of Florería Atlántico Barcelona. Photos: Judit Murphy Burgos Roca
"In the basement of Barcelona we did not have the possibility to draw on the walls like in Buenos Aires, so what we have is a large sea monster hanging from the ceiling 16 meters long. Upstairs, in Brasero there is a sea monster drawn by me, "says the bartender.
Giovannoni worked with designer Emilia Carranza and architect Laura Lavaque, an Argentine living in Barcelona. His goal was to interpret what Florería would look like "with a new look." According to the owner of the house, "it has a strong reminiscence of the spiritual feeling and from the aesthetic there are also many things that refer to Florería de Buenos Aires".
Florería Atlántico Barcelona is very reminiscent of the original place in Buenos Aires. Photos: Judit Murphy Burgos Roca
What to eat and drink in Florería y Brasero Atlántico Barcelona
With the spirit of Argentina, Florería y Brasero Atlántico Barcelona combine grill, still life and canteen with all the vibes that took them to the global cocktail stage. The inspiration for the drinks menu comes from the migration from Mediterranean countries to Argentina such as Lebanon, Israel, Greece and Morocco.
Florería Atlántico Barcelona is in El Born, the trendy neighborhood in Barcelona. Photos: Judit Murphy Burgos Roca
Giovannoni says: "The tribute is to them, it is inspired by those countries. We have a cocktail inspired by Egypt, which was tremendous: I went crazy. In Turkey, in Israel, in France, in Italy, obviously, in Spain as well. I am very happy with the collection of current cocktails on this first menu."
For example, Egypt (22 euros) is a London dry gin with chamomile, loquats and Egyptian herbs that comes out in a wooden cup. "The drink of Italy (19 euros) was tremendous. Bergamot liqueur, acorn liqueur and blood orange. The anchovy colatura is finished on the table and comes out with a Sicilian dish, "says its creator.
Florería Atlántico Barcelona has its own collection of drinks that also includes Buenos Aires classics.
The menu includes a short selection of Buenos Aires classics such as Negroni Balestrini (18 euros) and Transatlántico Fizz (20 euros). With regard to food, Brasero is focused on everything that comes from the sea but with links from Buenos Aires to Barcelona.
Chef Lanussol says: "There's a lot of grilling, a lot of cantina stuff like a milanesa or a supreme Maryland. A vacuum can come out of the grill, for example" Some featured dishes? As a starter, fried green tomatoes with almond cream and cured lemons (5.50 euros), cuttlefish, noisette butter and olives (15 euros) and smoked sardines with old bread in peperoncino oil (12 euros).
One of the drinks of Florería Atlántico Barcelona.
There are dishes to share such as grilled turbot by weight and lamb shoulder. Accompaniments include fries with water salt, white asparagus and aioli, and beets with anchovies and pangrattato.
The expansion of Florería Atlántico does not end in Barcelona: other projects are being cooked. Resnik says that the next opening will be in the US, in the state of Washington. They will also make a pop-up at the Four Seasons hotel in Singapore. "And I hope that by the end of this year or in the first quarter of 2024 Brasero Bahrain can open. Those things are what are marching now," he concludes.
See also
