Marrakech is nicknamed the red city for the ochre tones of its thousand-year-old ramparts. But we could just as easily invoke the azure blue of the sky, the intense purples of the bougainvillea massifs or the bright greens of this oasis at the gates of the desert. In short, the "insolence of mixtures" dear to Yves Saint Laurent!
To discover
- Podcast Elsewhere: Singapore's hidden surprises and treasures
- Trips to Africa: tours, hotels and tailor-made stays from our partners
At the crossroads of Berber, Arab-Andalusian and Saharan cultures, the Almoravid capital founded in the twelfth century occupies a special place in Morocco. Festive and cosmopolitan, bubbling with a crazy energy often envied by other equally imperial cities, the eternal muse of artists is constantly reinventing himself, juggling between tradition and modernity. From a secret museum to an artist's garden, from a trendy table to a pop shop, a new Marrakech is woven every day, interweaving the colors of the present and those of the past. Let's unwind the thread, follow us.
See alsoWhat to visit in Marrakech, from Majorelle to the Secret Garden
Arrival
We land almost in the city, the airport Marrakech-Menara is 10 minutes by car from the center. Taxis are available but for your comfort, book a transfer from your accommodation. If you are staying in the medina, you will be assured of being taken directly to the door of your place of stay, luggage transport included. The formalities have been streamlined but in high season, you can opt for the "fast track" procedure which allows priority access to airport checkpoints (from 50 €).
Now
SEE ALSO
Jamaâ el-Fna, Museum of Intangible Heritage
A new small museum that will appeal to heritage lovers. Anne-Claire Delorme / Le Figaro
Under this somewhat tarabiscoté name, hides a new small museum that will seduce heritage lovers. Meticulously renovated under the aegis of the National Foundation of Museums, the building -the former branch of Bank Al-Maghrib- located in Jemaa El-Fna Square-, is a jewel of the colonial era (1922) with its spectacular period hall lined with chiseled stucco and woodwork and topped with a huge carved cedar dome.
A stone's throw from the halqas, the circles of spectators that form every day, you can discover the history and traditions of the "crazy square" classified as intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO (2008) through archive films, old photos, mannequins or objects symbolizing know-how, and the works of artists inspired by its unique atmosphere. The most spectacular? Two huge paintings, masterpieces by Jacques Majorelle, immortalizing the scenes of life around the Moroccan oral heritage.
Jamaâ El-Fna, Museum of Intangible Heritage, Ibn Marine Street, Jemaa El-Fna Square. Open every day except Tuesday, from 10 a.m. to 18 p.m. Admission: 4 € (1 € for children under 18).
THE RIGHT TABLE
Mandr Cafe
A stone's throw from Jemaa El Fna, this brand new café unfurls its terrace on the first floor of a listed building. David Lefais
Mandr (pronounced mandar) is the view in Arabic. Promise kept: a stone's throw from Jemaa El Fna, this brand new café unfurls its terrace on the first floor of a listed building, facing the Koutoubia gardens. Black and white tiles revisiting the checkerboard spirit, copper lanterns, tables circled in gold, the elegant neo-colonial setting evokes the 1930s while the plate orchestrated by a Spanish chef trained in starred tables is part of a contemporary register. For its debut, Mandr Café offers delicious brunch-style dishes and non-alcoholic cocktails (pending the license), as an introduction to the future neo-bistro menu. Also coming is a huge panoramic rooftop, musical signature, finger food and cocktails in connection with the famous Paradiso Barcelona. Count 10 to 17 € the dish.
Mandr Café- Contemporary café, 4 rue Moulay Ismail. Immeuble du Pacha, 40000 Marrakech medina. Daily from 11 a.m. to 23 p.m. Reservations on WhatsApp: + 212 6 70 72 01 59 or hello.cafe@mandr.ma
Read alsoIn Marrakech, seven bold and colorful tables not to be missed
THE HOTEL IN SIGHT
Nobu Hotel Marrakech
Nobu Hotels has chosen the residential area of Hivernage, in the heart of Marrakech, for its first address in Africa. Nobu / Press photo
For its first African address, Nobu Hospitality is settling in Marrakech! In the select district of Hivernage, the brand has just taken over under its lifestyle umbrella, the former Pearl, a boutique hotel with circular architecture. The decoration has been revised in a refined Japanese spirit, -sand shades, raw wood- in the common areas and the 71 suites which nevertheless retain Moroccan touches. On the ground floor, the signature restaurant, with open kitchen (and terraces) deploys iconic recipes: chef Nobu Matsuhitsa, renowned for his Asian fusion cuisine, is one of the founders of Nobu Hospitality with actor Robert de Niro. The most? The 2000m2 spa (with 27 m long heated pool) and the Rooftop Garden, a vast roof terrace with 360 ° views of La Koutoubia and the ramparts, with swimming pool, jacuzzi, lounge bar, and beach club: Marbella atmosphere in the sky of Marrakech! From 390 euros the suite, 100 € the tasting menu at Nobu.
Nobu Hotel Marrakech, avenue Echouada and rue du Temple, Marrakech. Tel: +212 5244 24242.
Read alsoMarrakech, our ten favorite riads for an exceptional weekend
Day 1: Technicolor ride in the medina
Morning
The Ben Youssef Madrasa. Adobe Stock / BonnieCaton
There are a thousand and one ways to enter the medina, enclosed in its beautiful ramparts of the twelfth century. This morning, we start the visit from the East, with the House of Photography and its exceptional archive collection. Pleasure of the eyes guaranteed with the black and white shots and pastel tones of the autochromes gathered in a small room like darkroom. A fascinating journey through the diversity of Morocco seen through the lens of the first photographer-travelers. After the visit, take a mint tea break on the terrace: ochre houses on a blue sky background and Atlas in the background, everything is there!
Take the street Souk Al Fassis, which owes its name to the old foundouks (caravanserais) of the merchants of Fez without forgetting to take a look on both sides on the restored courtyards. Before arriving at the Ben Youssef Madrasa, one of the city's flagship monuments and architectural jewel that has just reopened after a careful restoration, turn right towards the Sidi Abdelaziz district and then towards Mouassine, a former Jewish quarter, or Dar El-Bacha, which are popular shopping spots. It is full of shimmering objects, clothes and accessories imagined by inventive creators. Not to be missed: the Topolina boutique (vintage fashion) Corinne Bensimon or that of Bacha Coffee, with its rare coffees and refined dishes: the riad of Stella Cadente where unfolds the poetic universe of the creative studio, through clothes, objects, jewelry and decorations with explosive colors, and Kissa Store, co-created by Mina Binebine, Young stylist and rising star with her bold fashion.
PRIVATE TOUR IN MARRAKECH
Lunch break
The rooftop of L'Mida, with its breathtaking panorama of the Atlas and original dishes. Press photo / Lmida Marrakech
A little hungry? We go by the main artery of the souks to Rahba Kdima. Between piles of basketry, pyramids of fluorescent hats and herbalist stalls full of mysterious gray-gray, the place of spices awakens all the senses! To feast on fusion cuisine (25 € the full meal excluding drinks), it is in the sky that it happens. Go to the rooftop of L'Mida, and its breathtaking panorama of the Atlas. On the program, eggplant zaalouk with a touch of feta or vegetarian pastilla with chickpeas. Another option: the cozy terraces of Nomad for a tasty melting pot, between mezze, tagine beldi with candied pears, cashew nuts and eggplants or panacotta with lavender and honey from the Atlas, or the more modest roof of Ayaso, organic and locavore restaurant. On the way down, we stock up on decorative objects at Sissi Morocco, we admire the carpets of Soufiane Zarib and we stroll between the stalls.
Read alsoMarrakech: our ten favorite riads at less than 100 euros per night
Afternoon
In the heart of the medina, the Secret Garden reinvents the model of the riad, the house-garden. Press photo / Secret Garden
Would you like to know what an authentic riad is? Push the door of the Secret Garden, it hides an ocean of greenery arranged on the model of the garden house, with its fragrant beds, its kiosk and its pavilions topped with green tiles. Listening to the chirping of the birds and the murmur of the fountains, you quickly feel far from the world, but still remember to book the visit of the tower to admire the 360 ° view!
To continue this timeless journey, we offer ourselves a wellness break in the warmth of a hammam. Between scrubbing with black soap and modeling with argan oil, this is a good way to relax before exploring the large open-air theater of Jemaa El-Fna Square. Snake charmers, monkey showmen, Gnaoua dancers and Berber musicians, you are back in the time of the baladins. To admire this whirlwind of colors, smells and sounds, the terrace of the Grand Balcon of the Glacier café is the ideal spot: bird's eye view and tranquility assured.
Aperitif and dinner
The XXL terrace of El Fenn. Cecile Treal
A stone's throw from Jemaa El-Fna, a change of scenery is one of the most prominent rooftops, the Kabana, an oasis suspended in the sky facing the minaret of the Koutoubia. We see life in green in the middle of jungle prints and glazed tiles while sipping a homemade cocktail (from 12 €) accompanied by tapas and sushi. For dinner, we play extra time or we sit as a neighbor on the XXL terrace (1300 m²) of El Fenn, bohemian chic address signed Vanessa Branson, for a Moroccan menu under the stars (15/24 € the dish).
Read alsoMarrakech seen from above: ten rooftops to have a drink, Moroccan dinner or dance at sunset
Day 2: high perched breakfast and arty stroll
Hot air balloon flight early in the morning with Ciel d'Afrique. Sky of Africa / Press photo
If you are a morning person, you contemplate the sunrise during a flight (with breakfast) in a hot air balloon. Otherwise, we start the arty getaway by... a golf course! A 5-minute drive from the center, Al Madeen is not only an 18-hole course but also a park of 12 monumental sculptures and a museum of contemporary African art, the MACAAL, with its scenography as neat as its collections. Then head back to the city to explore the art galleries of Guéliz, the European quarter at the time of the French protectorate (1912-1956) with a vintage atmosphere. At the corner of Rue de la Liberté, don't miss the Comptoir des Mines, a contemporary art space located in a 1930s building: a real catalogue of decorative arts! Next door, take a look at the Marrakine shop whose colorful bled carpets are sure to warm interiors and Lalla's collection of no less acidulous bags.
HOT AIR BALLOON FLIGHT
Lunch break
The rooftop of Douar, new address on M Avenue. ACD
Pour le déjeuner, on reste dans le ton en grignotant quelques délices healthy dans le jardin serein de SOME Slow Concept Store, niché dans une villa des années 1930 (4 à 11 € le plat, 3 à 6 € le dessert) sans oublier de visiter la boutique. Ou à côté, dans l'univers tout aussi bohème chic d'Azalai Urban Souk et sa table inventive. Autre option : explorer M Avenue, le nouveau quartier lifestyle rassemblant les cuisines du monde entier : marocaine sur la Terrasse de Douar avec des recettes oubliées remises au goût du jour, traditionnelle turque et steak house chez Baba Turc ou healthy chez Pokawai'i.
Après-midi
Créé par le peintre Jacques Majorelle au début du XXe siècle, ce jardin d'artiste était une source d'inspiration pour Yves Saint Laurent à qui l'on doit sa rénovation. Fondation Jardin Majorelle Photographie de Nicolas Mathéus
On va voir l’exposition en cours à la Galerie 127 (du mardi au samedi de 14h à 19h), belle galerie située en étage d’un immeuble années 1930 avant de se rendre en voiture au mYSLm, le Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, et au jardin Majorelle (ouvert du lundi au dimanche, de 8h à 18h) attenant (après avoir réservé son billet sur internet car il n'est plus possible d'acheter son billet à l'entrée). C’est le meilleur moment pour s’immerger en toute quiétude dans les flots de couleurs, capes et robes brodées côté musée, buissons de fleurs, pots jaune vif et murs bleu intense côté jardin Majorelle. Fondé par le peintre orientaliste Jacques Majorelle au début du XXe siècle, ce jardin d’artiste était aussi une source d’inspiration pour Yves Saint Laurent à qui l’on doit sa rénovation. En sortant, on explore les boutiques et concepts stores, 33 rue Majorelle, vitrine de la création marocaine contemporaine, Moro, créé par les fondateurs de The Moroccans, une gamme de cosmétiques, et sa bonne table du marché dans une jolie cour ombragée, ou encore Maroc'n Roll pour ses sacs peints à la main.
Aperitif and dinner
For the aperitif, we imitate the Marrakchis and we take the path of the Grand Café de la Poste, an institution for a century. Optionally, the veranda on the ground floor or the living room upstairs. Neocolonial chic setting and jazzy music, the atmosphere is cozy including for the brasserie-style dinner (15-30 € the dish). You can also change register, Guéliz is full of good addresses: Petit Cornichon and its bistronomic cuisine (20-30 € the dish) or Plus61, Australian chef and market cuisine. For a more local note, two addresses: Azar and its mix of Levantine and Moroccan cuisines with a revisited oriental dance show and Sahbi Sahbi, a new restaurant featuring authentic women's cuisine, that of dadas, traditional cooks. For a nightcap, we opt for L'Épicurien, and its live that dishevels or the Bo and Zin and its large exotic garden at the gates of the city.
Address book
GOOD RESTAURANTS
At Nomad, we discover a tasty melting pot, between mezze, Moroccan gazpacho and couscous revisited. Press photo / Nomad
Azalai Urban Souk, 67 boulevard Mansour Eddahbi. Tel: + 212 669 29 31 62/661 55 57 02.
Nomad, 1 Derb Aarjane. Tel: + 212 524 381 609.
L'Mida, Marrakech 78 bis Derb Nkhel Rahba Kdima. Tel: + 212 524 443 662.
Naranj, 84 Riad Zitoun El Jdid Street. Tel: + 212 524 386 805.
Plus61, 96 Rue Mohammed el Beqal. Tel: + 212 524 207 020.
SOME Coffee Shop, 76 Boulevard el Mansour Eddahbi. Tel: + 212 524 433 372.
The Douar M Avenue, Meydene Avenue de la Ménara. Tel: +212 636 621 616.
Le Petit Cornichon, 27 Rue Moulay Ali. Tel: + 212 524 421 251.
Azar Marrakech, Rue de Yugoslavia. Phone + 212 524 430 920.
Sahbi Sahbi, Boulevard Mansour Eddahbi. Tel. +212 662 682 312.
WHERE TO HAVE A DRINK?
Kabana's rooftop. Press photo / Kabana
Kabana, 1 Kissariat Ben Khaled, Fatima Ezzahra R'Mila Medina Street. Phone: +212 6 64 46 44 50.
Grand Café de la Poste, corner avenue Mansour Eddahbi and Imam Malik. Tel: + 212 5244-33038.
El Fenn, 2 Derb Moulay Abdullah Ben Hezzian. Tel: +212 5244-41210.
L'Épicurien, rue Ibrahim El Mazini Es Saadi Marrakech Resort. Tel: +212 663-055704.
Bo and Zin, km 3.5 Route de l'Ourika. Tel. +212 524 38 80 12.
SHOPPING
Chez Marrakine's colourful carpets warm up interiors. Marrakine
Marrakine, 60 rue de Yugoslavia. Tel: +212 664 83 26 97.
Lalla, 35 boulevard Mansour Eddahbi. Phone + 212 524 44 72 23.
Maroc'n Roll, 6 Rue Houdhoud, Majorelle district. Tel: +212 666 05 64 4.
Moro Marrakech, corner rue Yves Saint Laurent and bld Yacoub El Mansour. Tel: +212 665 99 93 36.
Corinne Bensimon, 104 Dar El Bacha Street. Tel: +212 660 103 795.
Topolina, 134 Dar El Bacha. Tel: + 212 679 726 026.
Sissi Morocco Rahba Kdima Tel.: + 212 6 23 31 36 52.
Stella Cadente, 29 riad Laarouss, Derb El Guerraba. Medina. Tel: +212 662 634 226.
Kissa Store Marrakech, Amsefah Street. Medina. Tel: + 212 525 436 525.
SPAS
Royal Mansour, Abbas Abou El Sebti Street. Tel: +212 529808080.
The Arab House, derb Assehbi. Tel: +212 5243-87010.
Spa of La Villa des Orangers. Tel: +212 524 384 638.
Spa du Palace at Es Saadi Marrakech Resort. Tel: +212 5 24 33 74 00.
EXPERIENCES
Sky of Africa. Tel: +212 524 43 28 43.
Marrakech Insiders. Tel: +212 669-699374.
WHERE TO SLEEP?
Riad Le Rihani, 52 derb El Arsa Kennaria. Tel.: +212 5 24 38 37 66/ +212 6 61 32 86 68. From 110 € the double room with breakfast.
BOOK WITH BOOKING.COM
Tarabel, Dar El Bacha, 8 Derb Sraghna. Tel: +212 5243-91706. From 230 € per night, with transfers and breakfast.
Villa des Orangers. 6, rue Mimoun, place Ben Tachfine. Tel: +212 524 384 638. From 495 € per night, with transfers, breakfast, soft drinks, light lunch and laundry.
See alsoMarrakech: the most beautiful hotels to sleep in the Palmeraie
This article was originally published on October 24, 2020 and is regularly updated.
The content of this article was written independently by the editor. When you make a reservation via our partner links, Le Figaro may receive a commission.
