The euphoria of the mountains can win us over at the entrance to the Chamonix Valley, surrounded by its high peaks conquered by adventurers and pioneer guides, such as André Contamine, a recognized but unknown master. An exhibition is dedicated to him. "The Euphoria of the Mountains. André Contamine & mountaineering of the 1950s-1960s" is on view until September 17, 2023 at the Maison de la mémoire et du patrimoine Janny Couttet.
To discover
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We discover his exploits and his enthusiastic look at mountaineering of the time that he immortalizes with his lens and his stories. 100 photos and writings produced for the collective are presented. Driven by passion and transmission, the guide, professor at the National School of Ski and Mountaineering, reveals the secrets of the summits, the subtleties of their ascent (1,300) and his technical discoveries by climbing virgin routes. South pillar of the Grand Dru, west face of the Petites Jorasses, south face of the Aiguille du Midi, north face of the Aiguille Verte are the main open routes (30 in all) with its accomplices, large figures.
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No need to be keen on mountaineering to appreciate the value of this exhibition at the height of this discreet place on the rue des Moulins, which reveals the work of the pioneer before honoring the Olympic Games of Chamonix (1924). Skiing and mountaineering flow in the veins of the valley, culture too. The Maison des artistes is notable for its unique programming and architecture (Villa Art Nouveau 1926, Parc Couttet), in place of an ancient glacier tongue. To discover while walking with enthusiasm in the heart of Chamonix the mountain and much more ...
90, rue des Moulins. From Thursday to Sunday. Guided tour on Fridays at 16:30 p.m. Tel. 04 50 54 78 55. chamonix.com
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In 1786, Jacques Balmat (right) made the first ascent of Mont Blanc (4,810 m) and the second the following year with Horace Bénédict de Saussure (left). Chamonix Valley Tourist Office
What to visit in Chamonix?
(RE) DISCOVER CHAMONIX BY ITS BUILDINGS
The gaze rises naturally towards the summits. Jacques Balmat points his finger in the direction of Mont Blanc; statue consecrated Place Balmat, where a break is recommended at its foot at the Rose du Pont café, an Art Nouveau jewel (1901) and a curiosity. Because the other treasure of Chamonix is its architecture. To appreciate its eclecticism and beauty, it is advisable to lower one's gaze at the height of the facades and stroll through the historic center. "All buildings have a history," according to Christine Boymond Lasserre (guide speaker). Three Belle Epoque palaces, built for wealthy travelers looking for escape or conquering summits, still stand in majesty: The Majestic (now a convention centre), the former Chamonix Palace (home to the Alpine Museum) and the former Savoy Hotel (now Folie Douce).
The Hotel La Folie Douce, housed in a former Belle Epoque palace. Sweet Madness
Hospitality is a culture. At the beginning of the twentieth century, there were 79 hotel families. These include the casino, former Hôtel Royal (1848) where Napoleon III stayed, the Hôtel Mont-Blanc (1872) with Art Nouveau ironwork, La Pointe Isabelle (1950) built in memory of Isabella Straton, the first woman at the top of Mont Blanc (1876), and the neoclassical Gustavia (1901) with granite window frames, built in Arve balls (stones from the river of the same name crossing Chamonix). The historic five-star Grand Hotel des Alpes still shines, and the Hotel Richemond has preserved its urban park. Both establishments are located rue du docteur Paccard, the former national stagecoach road, where all the characteristic styles of the city are displayed: Belle Époque, Haussmannian, Piedmontese neoclassical, Art Nouveau, Art Deco (1930 façade of rock crystal).
Another leap back in time rue Joseph Vallot (at 191, chalet 4810, Swiss style 1910) and avenue Michel Croz leading to the chemin Loppé, the oldest in Chamonix, where Gabriel Loppé (painter, photographer, mountaineer) settled. The town hall, the church with its thirteenth-century bell tower and its stained glass windows for skiers, and the Guides' Office (1821) are also nuggets on the path of architectural heritage. As well as, nearby: the hamlet of Pècles, the district of Les Érables, Roumnaz and the montée de la Croix des Moussoux for their villas with multiple styles.
Read: Historical and Heritage Guide to Chamonix Mont-Blanc and its Valley, Christine Boymond Lasserre, Editions Atelier Esope. Guided tours: chamonix.com
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PRECIOUS CRYSTAL MUSEUM
One of the 15,000 treasures of the Museum of Crystals. OTCHamonix - Mont -Blanc
It holds a treasure: a large collection of quartz, rock crystal, pink and red fluorines from Mont Blanc discovered by crystal makers in the seventeenth century, the first mountaineers like Jacques Balmat, winner of Mont Blanc in 1786. The museum can be explored independently or during guided tours with Christophe Epinat who has always loved to "pick these pebbles"; precious stones formed naturally in the rock ("ovens") that supplied Geneva factories (jewelry manufacturing) and the Court of France (chandeliers of Versailles in rock crystal).
Thanks to the bequest of collectors, including Michel Jouty, 15,000 specimens from the Mont-Blanc massif and five continents are presented, in all shapes and colors. A unique heritage in the world.
Espace Tairraz, 615, allée du Recteur-Payot. Phone : 04 50 54 78 39.
What activities?
WORKSHOP: STUDIO RūSC
Rūsc: "hive" in Catalan. His studio-gallery is one of them. The ceramist Raquel Rafii Tabrizi welcomes artists (photographers, painters, sculptors, jewelers ...). The creative space comes alive with exhibitions and workshops. Here, we model the earth and we turn in freedom, in music and panoramic facing the mountains. "Osez l'Art" is displayed on the window of this hive whose address echoes its atmosphere: a paradise. That of a passionate woman with an unlimited taste for transmission. The artist trained ten potters from the valley. Home to experienced mountaineers, Chamonix is also a breeding ground for inspired artists at the peak of their creativity.
99, Promenade Marie-Paradis. Tel.: 04 50 53 91 85. studio-rusc.com
WILD BOOKSTORE
10,000 books are available in this recent bookstore. Press photo
One year of opening, a success. This is due to its value and those carried by its creators, Louise and Louis: a couple of lovers in the city who dreamed of opening a bookstore. Some 10,000 works presented in a space of 120 m², housed in the former Hôtel du Nord. You can see a treasure (historical fresco) preserved by the booksellers conquered by Chamonix and its cultural life to which they actively contribute.
In the basement, they opened an art gallery. The calendar of exhibitions (painting, sculpture, ceramics, stained glass, drawing) is full until March 2024, as are meetings with authors and artists. Here you will find many stories to read, see and listen to.
178, avenue Michel Croz. Phone : 04 56 69 02 16. lalibrairiesauvage.com
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Where to hike?
CAP AUX HOUCHES, PICKING IN CHAROUSSE
The best way to discover the natural heritage of the valley? Follow in the footsteps of Sébastien Perrier. The mountain guide, ethnobotanist, organizes outings to gather wild edible plants, from spring to autumn. Its prolific corners: Les Bouchards, the hamlet of Les Chavants, Charousse, Les Granges (1,250 m)... From forests to mountain pastures, overlooking the needles of the Mont-Blanc massif, the journey he proposes is curious and greedy, because there are a thousand plants to chew under. Their beauty is subtle and their uses useful. In the kitchen: in salads oxalis, serpolet (thyme), wild spinach, blueberry leaves, garlic (wild wasabi), spring roll, dandelion flowers in honey, sweet clover in cookie ("poor man's vanilla"), cradle in strawberry juice ... Exquisite hiking.
montagnenature.com
TRIP TO VALLORCINE
The Mont-Blanc Express makes it possible to reach Vallorcine, the last village before Switzerland. Caroline Boufflert
First, board the Mont-Blanc Express (departure from Chamonix). For twenty-nine minutes, the postcard mountain landscapes scroll to the last village in the valley before Switzerland, Vallorcine.
400 inhabitants, twelve hamlets nestled at the foot of the Aiguilles Rouges (nature reserve), and a rare curiosity, its church (twelfth century) which is not in the center of the village but ten minutes walk by a path, protected by a stone paravalanche, "a turn". Particularity: its eleven stained glass windows, the works of art of the artist father Kim En Joong, an abstract art far from traditional figuration, with bright colors. Their light creates a permanent sun in this sacred place. Divine, like the marriage with historical frescoes. Divine and heritage too: the gourmet break at Café Comptoir.
chamonix.com
Where to sleep?
HELIOPIC HOTEL & SPA
Superior room at this 4-star property. Press photo
Facing the departure of the cable car: this 4-star hotel is best placed to take a step aside in the city or in the void at the Aiguille du Midi. For ten years, the Heliopic has been always full, open all year round (except November). Two buildings, 500 m² of spa, two restaurants, a bar and 102 rooms: it's large, and charming with a cozy decoration "retro-chic mountain 1950-1960".
The leather straps of the pillows and the Arpin wool sheet make their effect. The Mont-Blanc view is included, the sunrise from room 212, a gift. A "home-like" atmosphere with originalities like the lobby (giant chess set and wall of musical headphones). The Nuxe spa is bathed in light: a beauty with its ice cave and dark blue pool, to restore your health post-hike. As for the tables: two to choose from, Frometon and Akashon (Bib Gourmand).
From 140 € per night. 50, place de l'Aiguille-du-Midi. Phone : 04 50 54 55 56. heliopic-hotel-spa.com
HAMLET ALBERT 1st
Five stars, five generations and 120 years for the historic Hotel Chamoniard. The former Pension du chemin de fer is now a hamlet, small in the number of rooms/suites (37 and 2 chalets), beautiful tranquility, large in its "Relais & Châteaux" standing with luxury services: spa with indoor/outdoor pool, Maison Carrier country restaurant, Albert 1er gourmet table (one star).
Favorite for La Ferme, built with reclaimed wood on an idea of Pierre Carrier, the owner. Comfort is absolute in the rooms mostly equipped with a fireplace. The 501, 502 and 503 are on the ground floor where a stream trickles and beehives buzz. Bucolic, like this historical jewel: the mazot (or "attic"), reserved for regulars.
From 210 € per night. 38, route du Bouchet. Phone : 04 50 53 05 09. hameaualbert.fr
Where to sit down?
LE MATAFAN
The lair of the Chamoniards with a sure taste. Fabrice Rembert
The lair of Mickey Bourdillat, the haunt of Chamoniards with a sharp taste is located in a setting, the Mont-Blanc hotel (5-star) with monumental chandeliers and Art Deco staircase. The chef has three passions: cooking, charcuterie and bakery. We taste its salted meats on the terrace and its bread "respectus panis", kneaded and baked according to the rules of the art.
Its cuisine borders on gastronomy at a good price (lunch menu 32 €). The menu is seasonal, simple and passionately composed. On the menu this spring: asparagus, strawberries at the apotheosis, cherry (fruit of his youth). And lemon madeleine to enjoy at any time. Romain follows his chef dad, with his croissant voted best of Haute-Savoie (2021). It is therefore advisable to come also at breakfast time.
Open for lunch and dinner. 62, allée du Majestic. Phone : 04 50 55 35 46. maisonbourdillat.com
AKASHON
Gastronomic level for this table led by Julien Binet (Bib Gourmand). But without astronomical note, with a market menu at 35 €, a gourmet at 60 €, and a la carte dishes from 15 €. The Héliopic restaurant, which means "by surprise, in secret" in Savoyard dialect, is aptly named.
On the summer menu: burratina di bufala (pea coulis, bear garlic pesto) and Arctic char (Arnad's bacon, chard with tomato, pine nuts). A tip: the food and wine pairing option (35 €, 4 glasses including 1 glass of champagne). On the sweet side, pastry chef Cyril Gérard delights with his meringue case, crispy caramel-chocolate and hibiscus poached rhubarb. With Mont Blanc view, the other cherry on the gastro.
Open in the evening. 50, place de l'Aiguille-du-Midi. Phone : 04 58 10 03 04. restaurant-akashon.com