Guided tours, bar, restaurants, tango shows, art exhibitions, roof top, film set, fashion productions. The Barolo Palace reaches its hundred years converted into much more than an architectural symbol of the City of Buenos Aires. His grandiloquence only increases over the years. It avoided decades of abandonment, was rebuilt on its own myth and today its façade, dome and lighthouse are a Buenos Aires postcard. Mass of concrete, the Barolo began to retrace the centennial celebrations.
The history of this building -which has been a National Historic Monument since 1997- goes back to the early 1900s and two men who bequeathed to the City an unclassifiable and disruptive work for those times. On the one hand, who was its owner, Luis Barolo; and on the other, the architect Mario Palanti. Both Italian.
Barolo was a businessman who made his fortune in Argentina by installing the first combed wool spinning mill. As an investment, he commissioned Palanti to build an office building, with a shopping arcade. He provided the money but also gave the architect a blank check of confidence: that his project was much more than a commercial venture. Palanti understood everything and, between 1919 and 1923, built the building that today is a beacon -real and symbolic- of the Buenos Aires heritage.
For those years it was a technical advance, not only because it was the first skyscraper in Latin America, but because it was built entirely in concrete. In addition, its aesthetics scandalized many critics and architecture professionals who continued to explore the dominant style in the most important buildings and palaces of the City, the Beaux Arts. Eclectic and with an overwhelming symbolic charge, it prevailed even against the pretension of the Deliberative Council of those times that ordered its demolition.
Postcard of the façade of the Palace; on the right, the red dome of the La Inmobiliaria building. Photo: Guillermo Rodriguez Adami
Lighthouse
Originally, its light was visible from Uruguay.
Dome
It is believed that it was inspired by the Hindu temple Rajarani Bhubaneshvar, dedicated to the love between Dante and Beatrice.
Paradise
Eight plants representing the 8 planets that Dante had identified at the end of the thirteenth century.
Purgatory
It dedicates two floors to each of the levels (seven terraces) named by Dante in his work.
Mansard
It has 3 levels, is covered with green ceramics, both the façade that overlooks Av. de Mayo, and the one that overlooks the internal patio.
Hell
Depicted with snakes and dragons. The roof with nine vaults, corresponds to the 9 circles of Hell.
It had years of great obscurity, especially in times when the valuation of the built heritage was not a subject of interest to the general public; not even for the State.
Micah and Thomas Thärigen are behind many of the cultural activities that take place inside the Barolo. And they also have a life story within the walls of the Palace: "In 1926 our great-grandfather, Carlos Jorio, rented a desk in the building, as it was styled in those times. And in 1950 he bought an office. Our uncle, Robert Campbell, is the historic manager of the building. As kids, the lighthouse was our favorite playground. For us, coming here was an adventure that was also completed with the environment, which meant – and means – the Avenida de Mayo and the Palacio del Congreso," Miqueas told Clarín.
Central hall, view from the ground floor. Photo: Guillermo Rodriguez Adami
Replica of "The Ascension", by Amelia Jorio, at the entrance to the central hall. The original is missing; had been made by Palanti. Photo Guillermo Rodríguez Adami.
Micah marks a turning point in the history of the Palace: the rent law of 1940, which froze prices and prevented eviction for non-payment. "Little by little the building was transformed into an unviable site. Expenses were not paid and many offices were practically taken. The deterioration was tremendous," he said. In fact, many parts of the building's façade were "ironed", ornaments were removed because maintenance was unfeasible and landslides could injure pedestrians.
There were decades of abandonment, until the situation began to reverse in the late 90s, when he assumed the administration of the Don Campbell building. In the Barolo there is no one who does not recognize his tireless work to refloat it; one of the most important changes would come in 2001, when the two glass panels were placed in both accesses, by Avenida de Mayo and by Hipólito Yrigoyen. Thus they managed to put an end to years of invasion of pigeons and bats. Then, the improvements continued by the elevators, boilers and dome, among others.
The original stands. On the left, one of the passable skylights, which illuminate spaces in the basement. Photo Guillermo Rodríguez Adami
Almost in parallel, the Barolo resurfaced hand in hand with a captivating story, which became a myth: Palanti would have been inspired by the verses of the Divine Comedy, by Dante Alighieri, to design it. It is also said that Barolo intended to bring to Argentina the ashes of Dante to save them from a Europe at war.
Carlos Hilger is the architect who developed the theory and again and again he will explain to anyone who wants to listen: according to his vision, the traces of the literary work are not found in the structure, but in the spatiality, in the symbolic.
The entrance to the shopping arcade. In 2001 an enclosure was placed. By closing it, it was possible to combat the pests that besieged it. Photo: Guillermo Rodriguez Adami
In 2019 Hilger related his theory, which was published in a special report by Clarín: "One hundred are the songs of The Divine Comedy, one hundred meters from the building. The general division of the building and the poem is ternary: Hell, Purgatory and Heaven. Nine are the access vaults to the building – numbered and described with Latin phrases in each vault – as the number of infernal hierarchies. The upper floors and dome symbolize the seven levels of purgatory. The dome is inspired by a Hindu temple dedicated to love and is the emblem of the realization of the union of Dante with his beloved Beatrice.
Another milestone in the Barolo is the recovery of its lighthouse, a work carried out by the architect Fernando Carral, who has his office in the building and was in charge of the restoration. The work was financed by the national government for the celebrations for the Bicentennial of the Homeland; In addition, there was a contribution from private companies and people who also wanted to collaborate to see this wonder in operation again.
The glazing of the façade, a feature of the Palace. Photo: Luis Robayo, AFP.
The lighthouse continues to work and best of all, it can be entered. In addition, Carral conditioned it in such a way that it is possible to sit. Then it is simply to enjoy one of the most fabulous views of the City. The architect says that you can see up to 60 domes.
Aerial view of the lighthouse; to the right, the red domes of La Inmobiliaria and the monumental dome of the Palacio del Congreso. Photo: Luis Robayo, AFP
Activities and celebrations
The lighthouse is one of the visits that can be made (Sundays, @carral.f on Instagram), but it is not the only one. The Thärigen organize various visits: Barolo by night, Barolo by day, themed, and private tours (www.palaciobarolotours.com.ar, every day except Tuesday). And Viajes en Compañía takes the post of visits, precisely on Tuesdays, from 10 to 19.
Free events on the ground floor of the Palace. Photo courtesy of Los Amigos del Palacio Barolo Foundation
In addition, two restaurants operate in the place, La Panera Rosa on the ground floor and Salón 1923, on the 16th floor (now, closed for renovations, but with the aim of reaching July 7 with the reopening).
Cristian Palacios and his quartet in the ground floor hall. Photo courtesy of Los Amigos del Palacio Barolo Foundation
And through the Foundation Los Amigos del Palacio Barolo (www.fapb.com.ar), created by both brothers, free cultural activities are carried out with the idea of promoting and disseminating the history of the building. Within the framework of the cycle "Centenary Events", they are organized in the ground floor hall. Last week, a crowd applauded tango singer Cristian Palacios and his quartet.
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