The cunning storytelling merchants convinced a plethora of chefs that they needed to "tell a story" even more than serving delicious things. This gives, in the press kits and on the websites of the victims of this mercantile illusion, professions of faith inflated with nothingness. The worst service we can do to their authors is to take them at face value.
To discover
- Our selection of ten gem champagnes for less than 40 euros
- Recipes, tips, chefs' secrets... Download the Le Figaro Cuisine app
Excerpt from Neso's manifesto, where Guillaume Sanchez officiates (1 Michelin star, 15/20 at the Gault & Millau): "An uncompromising experience, rooted with benevolence in the French terroir (...). A contemporary French cuisine freed from its certainties and obligations, mixing the oldest culinary practices with the technologies of the present (...). A committed, humane and on guard post-cooking, making sure to serve you the best product at the best of its moment." It doesn't mean much. But at least it's consistent, because the plates don't want to either...
This article is for subscribers only. You still have 69% to discover.
Want to read more?
Unblock all items immediately.
TEST FOR 0,99€
Already a subscriber? Log
