Taste with your eyes? The chef who learned how to eat in darkness | Israel Hayom

Einav Azguri is one of those chefs who reinforces the belief that whoever has talent knows how to cook with amazing intensity a variety of styles. At the same time, it also establishes the claim that knowledge and skill are the foundation for a stable and extensive base of activity – one that will one day prove viable. Azguri is intended for a long-term relationship with the culinary industry in Israel. He was able to thrive after sharp career transitions (Julia, Bar a Vin, Cafe Nordoy) and invent a different angle for himself with each transition.

And this week he sets himself another challenge, a meal in the dark. An amazing sensory project of the Nalaga'at Center, located at the Second Aliyah Pier in Jaffa Port. Azguri will be a guest in the kitchen of the Blackout restaurant on site and at the dinner tomorrow, June 6, he will serve in complete darkness a meal inspired by Mediterranean cuisine, based on seasonal fish and vegetables. Diners will enjoy the meal alongside a cocktail for NIS 260 per person.

Azgury's food, photo: Maya Drin

Nalaga'at is a non-profit arts and culture center, the only one of its kind in the world. The center promotes encounters between the general public and deaf people, blind people and deaf-blind people. The dialogue at the center is egalitarian and experiential. As part of the center's activities, chef's meals are served every once in a while. The food is served in complete darkness, thick and present, the likes of which we do not experience on a daily basis.

On a personal note, I remember stopping breathing during a meal I was staying at a few years ago and also remembering how all my other senses were sharpened, to the point where I could hear all the small talk of the other diners in great detail. My eldest son, who was a little boy at the time, benefited from the experience in every way. Together with me he was moved by the empowering human encounter and moreover, due to the courage to taste dishes in complete darkness, he learned to love fish and cheesecakes.

This week, as mentioned, Chef Azguri was called to the task, and this is indeed a task since "we eat with our eyes too" and in this case, the opposite is true. "It's both logistical and creative thinking. That is, how do I get my food to glow and how do I serve it so that it can be eaten in the dark without going directly to dry cleaning." Azkori explains the challenges of planning a menu for a meal where you don't see the food at all, adding: "I remember even imagining in my mind's eye how a hand sent to dip something in sauce goes straight into the wine glass. Suddenly I realize how many dishes I'd like to serve and I can't."

So how do you do it?

"First of all, plates don't matter. For example, I realized that you can't serve bread with dips because you can't dip anything in the dark. It is also impossible to serve a self-assembled dish or a dish consisting of different ingredients on the plate that are supposed to be eaten in one coherent bite. I decided to build the dishes so that every time a diner touches the plate, he gets the perfect bite."

What can you eat in the dark?, Photo: Maya Drin

To achieve the creation of a perfect bite, Azguri made a way. It began after turbulent and corrupt years at Cervaseria, where he conceived the famous drunken brunch - brunch based on jugs of liquor and food mainly carbohydrates and fats. This was the place to be on Saturdays, until it was time for Azguri to move on to the next thing. At Bar-a-Vin he told a classic and traditional French story based on his own personal poetics, and the place established itself as one of the city's most talented chefs. Then there was a fairly brief episode at Cafe Nordoy.

After Bar a Vin closed and Cafe Nordoy changed direction, Azguri joined the Bushwick people and became the house chef. It was a great opportunity to combine the styles that characterize Azguri and bring to the city's gluttony a food menu suitable for alcohol - one that balances between corrupt and classic and knows how to compliment the drink.

A dish of Azguri at Cafe Nordoy,

For the past eight months, Azguri has been the chef of the veteran Yulia restaurant in Tel Aviv Port. The restaurant has been working diligently for over 15 years and is blessed with a regular and loyal clientele. There it serves delicate dishes of raw fish. There is considerable reference to Israeliness, seasonality and up-to-date. Paper-free and flavorful dishes that can accompany a glass of chilled wine in the summer bar overlooking the spectacular sunsets each evening.

Back at the Nalaga'at Center, we will explain that on a technical level, during the meal diners are accompanied by the center's activists, most of whom are blind or deaf. They help and guide throughout the meal, place the cutlery in the diner's hand, serve the glass to the palm of the hand and help with everything needed.

Restaurant Blackout Cafe Bar in Nalaga'at complex, Photo: Yehoshua Yosef

At the meal you will be able to enjoy four dishes: a seasonal salad of summer fruit, pacos, many herbs and different leaves that will arrive precise in its flavors when mixed and seasoned without topping and without anything beside it. There will also be Parmesan mousse served by the chef at Cafe Nordoy with a twil of jaala on top. "I will also serve a slice of roasted fish fillet on Mexican corn salsa," Azguri adds, continuing: "For dessert I will serve labneh ice cream and olive oil topped with Yanson cookies from the Arab cuisine."

Einav Azgury's meal in the dark will be served on June 6 at 18:30 at the Nalaga'at Center at the Second Aliyah Pier, Box No. 6, Jaffa Port, Tel Aviv.

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