How did Syracuse, a city in eastern Sicily founded by Greeks from Corinth in the eighth century, become a myth? Is it because of the legends attached to the city, such as that of the nymph Arethusa or Archimedes' "Eureka!" Because of its tumultuous history, marked by bloodthirsty tyrants? Or simply thanks to its sweetness of life, sung by both Cicero and Henri Salvador? One thing is certain, two to three days will not be too much to discover all its charms. Our program to make the most of it.
To discover
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Go around the island of Ortygia, along the sea
The heart of Syracuse beats in the alleys of Ortygia, an island of 1 km2 classified as a World Heritage Site by Unesco. Nothing beats a stroll along the water enjoying the light, which ignites the stone and gives jade reflections to the sea. From the Ponte Umbertino, fishing boats add a colorful touch. From the former palace of the Liberty posts, we follow the coast to the Forte Vigliena, at the foot of which some bathe.
The Castello Maniace, a fortress built by Frederick II in the thirteenth century, occupies the southern tip of the island: do not miss its superb Gothic hall and climb its ramparts to enjoy magnificent views of the Ionian Sea. Going up on the west side, here is the Arethusa fountain with its gushing spring and its basin invaded by papyrus. It still remains to walk along the foro Vittorio Emanuele, lined with yachts... For those with sea legs, speedboats go around Ortigia, even pushing to the sea caves that dot the coast.
Get lost in the alleys, from palaces to baroque churches
Piazza del Duomo in Syracuse. Adobe Stock
Piazza Archimedes and its eclectic palaces are the starting point for a beautiful urban walk. We must start with the via Maestranza, which collects baroque palaces as so many precious jewels: the palazzi Impellizeri, Bonanno or Romeo Bufardeci reveal delightful curves. To the south, it is the former Jewish quarter of Giudecca that seduces strollers with its passages and secret squares. It is possible to visit ancient Jewish baths (mikveh), hidden under the Alla Giudecca Hotel. A short walk away, the monumental Piazza Duomo hosts the city's cathedral, built on the ruins of a Greek temple. Its baroque-style façade impresses, while the interior retains elements from the Byzantine, Islamic or Norman eras. Opposite, the palazzi Beneventano del Bosco, del Senato or Borgia del Casale are not lacking in allure: built in 1760, the latter can be visited. Next door, the church of Santa Lucia alla Badia has a deliciously rococo look.
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Haunting ancient ruins and descending into catacombs
Greek theatre. Eli Franssens
If Ortygia is the oldest part of Syracuse, its ancient remains are rather thin. Archaeology enthusiasts will instead head to the Neapolis district on the mainland. They will discover an exceptional ensemble consisting of a Roman amphitheater, the altar of Hiero – which hosted the great celebrations organized by the tyrants of Syracuse – and a huge Greek theater, built in the fifth century BC. It remains to discover the latomies, spectacular quarries where hundreds of slaves were forced into forced labor. Not far away, the Basilica of San Giovanni, from the Byzantine period, hides vast catacombs dug into the limestone at the time of the first Christians. Finally, lovers of ancient art will not fail to visit the archaeological museum and its extraordinary collections of Greek craters, bronze figurines, marble statues or jewelry.
Discover the masterpieces of Messina or Caravaggio
The Annunciation of Antonello of Messina. Press photo
Built in the time of Frederick II Hohenstaufen, Palazzo Bellomo has an austere face. Yet it houses masterpieces of rare delicacy. On the ground floor, one marvels at the canvases of Sicilian primitives or the impressive polyptychs, without forgetting to detail the funeral monument of Eleanor of Aragon, finely sculpted by Giovan Battista Mazzolo. Upstairs, Antonello da Messina's The Annunciation attracts all eyes: although deteriorated, this painting fascinates with its delicate manner inherited from the Flemish tradition. In the Neapolis district, on the mainland, it is the church of Santa Lucia al Sepolcro that contains a masterpiece by Caravaggio: The Burial of Saint Lucia. The contrasts of this very expressive canvas are striking: Saint Lucia is represented lying on the ground, with its face turned towards the viewer.
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Market and taste Sicilian cuisine
The surroundings of the Temple of Apollo serve as a setting for the daily market of Syracuse, small but very lively. At lunch, it is a popular meeting for street food lovers: counters and tables are invited among the stalls of pistachio, almond and olive oil merchants or between the stalls of fruits, vegetables or fish. Mandatory stop at the Caseificio Borderi, a dairy that makes melting mozzarellas or ricottas, which can be enjoyed in lavish sandwiches. You can also sit on the terraces of La Lisca or La Carnezzeria to treat yourself to a frying fish, a bluefin tuna tartare or pasta with anchovies. For a snack, Voglia Matta prepares divine almond granite and excellent pistachio ice cream. In the evening, pizza lovers will try to find a place in the overheated room of Anima e Cuore , a lively address where the art of lifting the dough – which is here prepared in two ways – is perfectly mastered. The generous pizzes are topped with succulent products from Sicily or southern Italy.
Enjoy the movida siracusana
Evenings often start with an aperitivo on one of the Adobe Stock seaside terraces
In the summer and especially in summer, Syracuse becomes the playground of a young and trendy clientele, both Italian and foreign. If during the day the animation focuses on the beaches of Fontane Bianche and Arenella, the crowds are back on the island of Ortygia at the end of the afternoon. The evenings often begin with an aperitivo on one of the seaside terraces, between the Castello Maniace esplanade, the Arethusa fountain and the foro Vittorio Emanuele. Afterwards, you can join a wine bar to treat yourself to a plate of cold cuts and local cheeses while tasting a good wine from southern Sicily, for example a nero d'avola. Enoteca Solaria is ideal for this kind of activity. Those who prefer expertly dosed drinks will head to Boats, a very lively cocktail bar decorated like a boat cabin, with a small terrace opening onto the ruins of the Temple of Apollo. A nice setting to end the evening!
