In the middle of all the hustle and bustle of Nahalat Binyamin, one of the most culinary streets in Tel Aviv today, we discovered one of the most interesting meals we had this year, which may actually tell the story of the new Israeli cuisine.
From the street, AKA44 looks blooming and full of life. People sip cocktail glasses and wine at the entrance to the place on the road that has been blocked off to vehicles. The hostess at the entrance leads us to the inside of the place - to the more elegant section, where there is an open kitchen. Behind the kitchen bar stands smiling chef Itai Kushmaro. Behind him comes the occasional live fire, burning and caramelizing fresh ingredients. Above it is a long shelf with jars of pickled, fermented ingredients and various infusions.
"This part is considered a restaurant, here there is a wider variety of dishes," the hostess explains to us, adding that the more "throwaway" section at the entrance serves as a cocktail bar, and that on the second floor there is a terrace overlooking the street with a wine bar. Yes, if you have a Pomo you may get upset, but if you find it really difficult, you can move between the spaces throughout the evening and realize a variety of entertainment.
Kushmaru stepped into the kitchen of the place, which opened last year, just four months ago, and changed the menu and the composition of the kitchen staff. "When I arrived, I felt there was no direction to the menu and I needed a moment to learn the street and where we are," he said. "I realized that I needed to connect Levinsky Market and Carmel Market, and I decided to create vibrant Mediterranean food that corresponds with the bustling Nahalat Binyamin Street."
The menu at AKA44 restaurant // Photo: Hila Dudal
"Kushmaru is a Romanian name," notes the chef, explaining: "The cuisine I grew up on combines fiery and spicy Turkish food with Ashkenazi food, which usually has delicacies and cold dishes. When I entered the kitchen, I discovered French and Italian techniques, and in them I combined my tastes from home." Thus, the 28-year-old young man who entered the kitchen at the age of 17 and worked, among other things, in Katit, managed Ramses kitchen and was only 24 when he became Kushmaru's chef, created a unique "Israeli" fingerprint.
Yes, one of the interesting things about the development of Israeli culinary is that it has become definable in recent years. In the past, after the establishment of the State of Israel, a kitchen of ingathering exiles was created here, one that combines traditional ethnic dishes with regional food influenced by the Levant Strip.
Seasonal market flavored fish sashimi at AKA44 restaurant, photo: Hila Dudal
Today, Israeli chefs, some of whom set out to acquire cooking techniques in culinary institutions around the world, remember this heritage, but base their creation on local fresh ingredients and techniques that return to nature and simplicity, such as fermentation, pickling, handling raw materials under open flames, proper handling of dough, and so on.
The Israeli cuisine they dictate is creative, up-to-date and refreshing, one that consists of light sharing dishes that are fun to eat with a mentality that dislikes excessive elegance.
"Our kitchen is a hot kitchen used in Josper – a charcoal oven. Japanese grilled for small skewers, we produce a lot of handmade pastas and the food is also based on the local fish served in different ways - moving, pickled, grilled and fried," explains Kushmaro.
One of the interesting dishes we tasted at the place emphasized the Jerusalem artichoke as a raw material. On the plate were roasted lumps of the vegetable that resembled charcoal from a fire, in which the taste of fire also stood out. They were placed on a delicate artichoke rose miso, and everything was sprinkled with chopped pistachios that emphasized the nutty flavor of the root.
Jerusalem artichoke dish at AKA44 restaurant, photo: Hila Dudal
Another light dish that one could not remain indifferent to was American beef tartare on crostini bread with lemon cream. The tartar was slightly spicy from fresh hot green pepper, and it paired perfectly with the delicate sweetness of the bread on which it was placed.
Beef tartare at AKA44 restaurant, photo: Hila Dudal
The mushroom skewer dish on corn cream with mushroom broth also emphasized the raw materials, and it was evident that the thought behind the combination of burned animal mushrooms and the sweet and starchy corn was evident.
Animal mushroom skewer at AKA44 restaurant, photo: Hila Dudal
Another dish that was refreshing, fresh and fun with interesting edges of flavor was gazpacho made from yellow summer tomatoes alongside Blue Fin tuna ceviche in season with chopped pecos, shallots, spicy and flavored herbs.
Alongside all these, you can enjoy a wide wine list and a cocktail menu that also corresponds with the food and the smells of the market.
Gaspacho with seasonal fish ceviche at AKA44 // Photo: Hila Dudal
Wrong? We'll fix it! If you find a mistake in the article, please share with us