The croissants are an undisputed classic of Argentine mornings or afternoons. They have no specific social class, they are found both in luxury confectioneries and in chain bakeries and the new croissant kiosks, which offer cheap versions to take away from dozens.
This phenomenon contrasts with the arrival of the sophistication of laminates, which gave rise to croissant croissant more like a croissant than a classic. But of course, those pieces of long elaboration are not for any pocket, each one can cost more than $ 500.
In this economic context it is easy to understand why the City was filled with chains of croissants that sell their dozen at an average of $ 1,200. To find out which of all those brands are worth trying, we organized a blind tasting composed of five brands. The tasting was done by the renowned pastry chef Pedro Lambertini, regular face of the TV channel ElGourmet, who prepared a ranking.
What a good crescent has to have
The pastry chef Pedro Lambertini in the previous tasting of croissants. Photo: Constanza Niscovolos.
It is important to determine what are the standards that Pedro Lambertini considers necessary for a crescent to be considered good: "The crescent is composed of a semi-flaky pastry. The difference with puff pastry is that it is made with two equal parts of flour and butter and the croissant dough consists of one part butter or two parts flour," he explains.
"The characteristics that constitute a sublime crescent are the balance between size and weight. 40 grams is fine, 50 grams is appreciated," he continues and adds: "The Argentine crescent is not a croissant. It should not be extremely airy and light which may reveal excess leavening. I like that it is well panzona and with small ears, "he says.
As for the texture, he prefers them crispy on the outside and tender on the inside: "I like it when the dough is somewhat caked," he confesses. He adds that the mixture of butter, yeast and essences must be perceived. "The dough is definitely sweet. There are those who pass it of salt. That's not going to happen," he observes.
Pastry chef Pedro Lambertini blindly tasted 5 popular brands of croissants. Photo: Constanza Niscovolos.
With regard to cooking, he affirms that it is a matter of taste although it does affect the flavor and consistency if they are more or less golden. Finally, he explains that syrup is essential to finish boosting sweetness and maintaining moisture. "There are those who claim that it is 'the secret'. I do not agree, excess syrup can mask a mediocre crescent. And that it is varnished, not swimming, "he closes.
Cheap croissants: the ranking of Pedro Lambertini, from the worst to the best
Position 5: Argentine Customs
The croissants of Costumbres Argentinas. Photo: Instagram.
Costumbres Argentinas is an Argentine brand that was launched in 2014. Today, this bakery has 35 branches in the City, 40 in Greater Buenos Aires and 15 in the interior of the country. They sell bills, breads, cakes, empanadas and, of course, croissants. In some of the locations, customers can see the process of making and be tempted by freshly baked products. The half-dozen croissants cost $650.
Pedro Lambertini's assessment is blunt: "If they serve me these croissants in a bar, I get up and leave," he shoots. "They look salty, they don't look sweet." He is also not satisfied with the shape: "The ends and the middle are the same size." For the palate of this experienced pastry chef, the taste and texture of this crescent resemble that of a bread.
Position 4: Crescent Point
The Medilaunas of Point. Photo: Instagram.
"Our goal is that all Argentines continue to bring to their table the best croissant, at the best price," they say on the brand's website. They have branches in Belgrano, Villa Crespo, Colegiales and San Martín, among others. While they sell other bakery products, the forte is butter croissants. "On a Sunday we can sell between 60 and 100 dozen," they say from the Villa Urquiza store. The dozen croissants cost $1,500.
"At first glance the crescent is not seductive," Lambertini decrees when tasting it and adds: "Margarine is very much felt." At the same time he observes that his finishes are not neat, but rather rustic. "It's pasty in the mouth although I expected less of the taste," he admits.
Position 3: Grandpa's croissants
Grandfather's croissants. Photo: Instagram.
This bakery chain was a pioneer in selling croissants at affordable prices and today they have been in that direction for more than 20 years. In addition to croissants they sell bills and bread. They have branches in almost all the neighborhoods of Buenos Aires, in the north, west and south of Greater Buenos Aires, in Mendoza and even in Miami (United States). The dozen is worth $1,300.
"This crescent could be called the swindler," Lambertini said. According to the pastry chef, its manufacturers bet on sight and size in order to make the crescent look appetizing. Because of their excessive crumb, he considers that they are ideal to fill with ham and cheese. " It has an alcoholic aroma that denotes excess leavening," he says.
Pedro Lambertini tasting the croissants. Photo: Constanza Niscovolos.
He also adds that the taste resembles that of a packet sweet bread or an Easter roll. "Although I must admit that this is a very profiled style, there are many people who like this type of croissants and that is not right or wrong," he closes.
Place 2: Dina
The croissants of the Dina chain. Photo Instagram.
Dina is one of the new brands that are presented as "croissant kiosks". That is, their premises are windows where they display trays of product and that have one or two tables on the sidewalk, a format designed for purchase on the go. There the dozen leaves $ 1,200.
"The bakery effect is very good: they are showy, golden, tempting," observes Lambertini. "I rescue that they have a crocancia in their crust so that it is not a bite that feels all the same," he adds. As for its perfume, it warns that Margarine is very much felt. He also explains that it is a crescent that seeks to be fat "with a pebete effect".
Position 1: Maga's House
The croissants of La casa de Maga. Photos: Constanza Niscovolos.
This chain of bakeries in addition to croissants sells bills and breads. In some of its premises they have space to eat on site. They have branches in Devoto, Villa Real, Caballito, San Isidro and La Plata, among other neighborhoods.
On weekends they can dispatch more than 100 dozen of their croissants: "On a cloudy Sunday, we usually sell around 150 dozen," they say from the branch located in Villa Pueyrredón. There the 12 units are obtained for $ 1,200.
According to Pedro Lambertini, the medilaunas of La casa de Maga are the richest. Photo: Constanza Niscovolos.
For the pastry chef Pedro Lambertini, these croissants have the right size and also rich perfume, "although you can guess an aroma of butter essence," he describes. "The syrup is subtle. It's not very sweet and that's okay. It is not a crescent that if they serve me in a bar I get up and leave and that I usually do, "he concludes.
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