Since the end of last November Fátima Villanueva and Jesús León opened Señor Cangrejo, their tiny restaurant in the Arenal neighborhood of Seville, it knows a growing success. The striking headline – Barrita Brava – that heads his letter amounts to a declaration of intent. "We started with the idea of creating a bar with verve, in close relationship with our customers. In the end, the small size of the premises has forced us to complement it with the tables that surround it. Nor do they help us the kitchen, almost toy, "says León, a professional whose curriculum includes practices in restaurants with as much depth as El Cenador de Amós, Trivio, Código de Barras and Aponiente.
"We didn't want to become a bar or a formal restaurant with tables with tablecloths. We were looking for an informality that would not diminish either León's creativity or our experience in the management of the room and the winery. We offer dishes to share that reach the suggestions of the day. We do not distinguish between tables and bars, everywhere you eat the same thing," confirms Fatima.
More informationBusto, the town where everyone goes to buy Jhonatan cakes
Leon's cuisine has a sparkle, it is personal and different. It contains specialties achieved along with others that demand a revision of concepts. Dishes that are inspired by traditional flavors and reinterpreted with modern techniques that sometimes move away from balance. The first two appetizers convey positive sensations. The anchovies in vinegar with grilled eggplant in tart are followed by a pickled chicken volandeira and garlic toffee more than acceptable. Nothing to do with its disconcerting salad, too baroque, indefinable. It includes, pickles and pickled red onion and pickled prawns, apart from two mayonnaise, one of them with the oil of the heads.
Volandeira in unctuous pickle and garlic toffee, in an image provided by the restaurant Señor Cangrejo.José María Casco
The second discordance jumps with the crab chawanmusi, salted flan of Japanese origin turned into an icon of the house. Impeccable recipe that is blurred with the addition of a chicken broth matured in the Occo pot that modifies its flavor and alters its texture. The tasting goes up in tone between successes and objections. The green tomato gazpacho with semi-cured melva and sprouts of navazo vegetables is excellent. And it disorients its red prawn tartare, with a complex dressing, which is sprinkled with a Malaga gazpachuelo of chickpeas and cumin, a set that tries to remember the chickpea stew with prawns without success.
One of the best specialties of the house is the soufflé omelette, excellent. In essence, the same traditional recipe of potatoes, egg and onion turned into foam, accompanied by a stew of cod tripe. Nor does it detract from its version of the seafood stew presided over by a portion of brioche bread with a lobster clamp, despite the fact that the broth suffers from excessive concentration.
Seafood stew, in an image provided by the restaurant Señor Cangrejo. Jose Maria Casco
If Leon reveals his technical qualities in something, it is in the trade of griller. He works fish from the fish markets of Cádiz and Huelva with which he gets remarkable roasts. The viceroy on his back, who marks the grill and ends up in the oven, presents it with a pilpil in which its juices and a Bilbao sauce intervene. Resoundingly memorable. Originality that extends to desserts. First with the pulleys or sweet porridge that it presents on cherries to the cut stick; Then with a rice pudding spiced that recalls flavors of Indian culture. Nor does the winery, between serious and radical, in equal parts, in charge of Villanueva, leave indifferent. In short, an exciting, successful restaurant that stands out from the current models in the Sevillian hospitality industry.
Interior of Señor Cangrejo, from Seville, in an image provided by the restaurant. Jose Maria Casco
- Address: Harinas, 21. Seville
- Telephone: 955 092 910
- Hours: Closed on Wednesdays
- Price: Between 50 and 70 euros per person
Subscribe to continue reading
Read without limits
I'm already a subscriber