Hawaii: A Journey to Three Islands of Fire and Sea

In the mid-eighties, in one of Mecano's hits, Ana Torroja sang: "And when I put on my swimsuit I wonder when I can go to Hawaii", followed by a sigh of longing. In the eyes of a child, Hawaii is the universe of Moana, for those of a teenager it is the setting of Jurassic Park, and for an adult, the earthly paradise, the dreamscape to be transported to when closing your eyes.

Hawaii is much more than beach and surfing. It is an ancestral culture that is based on pillars such as ho'oponopono, a technique to heal relationships based on four mantras: "I'm sorry", "Forgive me", "Thank you", "I love you". The energy of this American archipelago has managed to tame eccentric characters such as photographer David LaChapelle or actor Woody Harrelson. It is the birthplace of Mauna Loa, the second largest volcano in the world and the most active (it appears in the documentary Fire of Love, nominated this year for the Oscars as best documentary feature). In Hawaii are the roots of Alex Zhang Hungtai, aka Dirty Beaches, whose music transports to the melancholic and beautiful place that is reflected in the film he stars, August at Akiko's (2018), shot on the Big Island. Hawaii is, in short, a dream that can materialize and take a thousand forms: the solo getaway, the romantic desire, the adventure with friends or the great family trip. Here, the essentials to taste the best of three of its islands.

These are the 20 best beaches in the world (and two of them are in Spain), according to TripAdvisor

Oahu

Of the eight islands that make up the State of Hawaii, Oahu is usually the first contact, the place where you land and the base camp with the highest air traffic. It is not the largest, but it is the most densely populated and where Honolulu, the capital, is. It also has the largest offer of luaus, the traditional festival where the gastronomic experience (poke, rice, tropical fruits, roast pork, taro, macadamia nuts, coconut cream) is united with the cultural one, represented with the famous hula dance. It is preferable to attend to something smaller and of higher quality, such as, for example, the luau offered by the Nutridge estate, in an idyllic location: where Elvis Presley used to take refuge while filming Blue Hawaii (1961).

Poster of the movie 'Blue Hawaii' (1961), starring Elvis Presley.LMPC / GETTY IMAGES

The south of the island is where the biggest attractions are located. One of the best plans is to arrive at Diamond Head volcano at sunrise to avoid tourists. Climbing this volcano is an extraordinary activity of very easy access, it can be done even with children in your arms, and involves a walk of an hour on average. It includes two stairs, 99 and 76 steps, and when you reach the summit you are crowned with the panoramic view of the island. Nearby is Makalei Beach Park, a park that overlooks a small beach where it is common to see people interrupt their way to take a quick dip.

Aerial view of the crater of Diamond Head volcano, on the Hawaiian island of Oahu.Pamela Au (Alamy) (Alamy Stock Photo)

The famous and busy Waikiki Beach is the area where hotels, luxury shopping centers and nightlife are concentrated. In the midst of all the bustle, one can also appreciate the beauty of a species of giant ficus, banyan trees (also called Bengal fig trees), considered sacred trees in Buddhism and Hinduism. They can extend to occupy several hectares, are characterized by a robust trunk and from their branches come numerous aerial roots. Passing under one of these trees, one can immerse oneself in the revelry and excitement of dozens of birds singing.

Sunset at Ala Moana Beach in the city of Honolulu, on the Hawaiian island of Oahu. John Seaton Callahan (GETTY IMAGES)

On any beach on Oahu it is interesting to observe how Hawaiian children build volcanoes instead of molding sandcastles. In the south, one of the most beautiful beaches for swimming is Ala Moana, and for diving, Sandy Beach. But if you want to snorkel, Hanauma Bay is a marine reserve with coral reefs where you can enjoy the whole day. It is, in fact, the greatest treasure of the island and to guarantee its conservation it has an entrance fee (25 dollars; free for children under 12 years), schedules and even two weekly days of rest.

A sea turtle swims in the waters of Hanauma Bay, a nature preserve in the southeast of the island of Oahu. Gabriela Moralejo (Alamy) (Alamy Stock Photo)

The north of the island is characterized by strong winds, a great incentive that explains the community of surfers living in the area. Waimea Beach State Park is one of its iconic beaches. It is characterized by a huge black rock about seven meters high from which the most adventurous are continuously launched, despite the sign that warns of the danger that this implies. For animal lovers, Laniakea Beach is home to giant tortoises.

But it's not all beach on Oahu. The one who was the richest woman in the world, Doris Duke, who enjoyed a life full of chiaroscuro at an overwhelming pace, lived in Honolulu her golden years. His home, Shangri La, is today a public museum of Islamic art, culture and design and one of the largest cultural destinations on the island, so it is advisable to book the visit in advance. In general, in Hawaii you have to leave little to improvisation because there is a lot of demand for few resources.

One of the streets of the Waikiki neighborhood in Honolulu. Cavan Images / Alamy

It is preferable to book the hotel and the car (essential to move) with the flight so as not to face a common problem: the lack of vehicle or an ostentatious rise in the price of accommodation.

Maui

From November to May, the island of Maui is characterized by humpback whale sightings. It is estimated that then there are more than a thousand in its waters, thus being one of the most important enclaves to live the experience of seeing them.

Australian surfer Tyler Wright at Kapalua Beach on the Hawaiian island of Maui. Dayanidhi Das (WSL/GETTY IMAGES)

On this island also awaits the legendary road to Hana: 84 kilometers of a narrow road, with some 600 twisted curves, which make it one of the most dangerous in the world and, at the same time, one of the most beautiful. Following popular wisdom, the best thing about touring it is the simple pleasure of doing it and enjoying the landscape, not the destination. There are many stops where you can enjoy waterfalls (Wailua Falls), black sand beaches (Wai'anapanapa State Park), the seven sacred pools (Haleakala National Park)...

To eat, there is a place preferred by locals and well protected from tourists for its literary location: Tamura's Liquor Store, a store where alcohol is sold that hides a counter with the best poke on the island ready to go. If one prefers to go to a restaurant, Mama's Fish House is the best option of fresh fish, although the most expensive. For something more casual there's Coconut's Fish Cafe.

Big Island

The Big Island, whose official name is Hawaii, impacts both its vastness and its energy. It is the largest island, but has a very low population density due, in part, to the fact that there are two active volcanoes on it: Mauna Loa and Kilauea. For two weeks in November 2022 both were erupting at the same time, something that had not happened since 1984. Although the state of alarm was activated on the island, there was no incident and even the volcanoes national park remained open. In January of this year, Kilauea (which erupted for 16 months, since September 2021) erupted again.

Eruption of Kilauea volcano, on Big Island. Jim Sugar (CORBIS/GETTY IMAGES)

In Hawaii nature is the one that rules over man and not vice versa, something that is more than evident on this island where the natives treat volcanoes as sacred agents. According to Hawaiian mythology, the goddess Pele inhabits Kilauea and is responsible for eruptions. To make him clemency, the locals leave him floral offerings in the crater.

Two 'Ki'i', guardian idols typical of Polynesian art, in Honaunau Bay, on the Big Island (Hawaii). Larry Geddis (Alamy)

This is a wild island. Some people go to Kalae, also known as South Point, for their dose of adrenaline. There you can jump over a cliff that measures around 15 meters high, facing the strong winds and the fact that it is an area frequented by white sharks. The beaches are less accessible and more diverse. There are green sand (Papakolea), black sand (Punalu'u Beach) and white sand (Hapuna). And, in addition, it is the birthplace of the Hawaii Tropical Bioreserve and Garden, probably the most beautiful tropical botanical garden you will ever see.

When the journey is over, one can observe how the relationship with nature changes. Some lives even turn upside down.

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