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Barcelona hosts this Tuesday the gala of the Michelin Guide 2024 which, for the first time, is not held jointly with Portugal. The ceremony, hosted by presenter Andreu Buenafuente, will take place in the Auditori Fòrum of the Barcelona International Convention Centre and will award the restaurants with the awards known as stars. In addition, in this edition, four awards will be given to professionals, among which the Michelin Sommelier Special 2024 stands out as a novelty. And, once again, a special emphasis will be placed on sustainability through the Michelin Green Star, a distinction that recognises establishments committed to sustainable gastronomy, nature and the future of the planet. Those responsible for the red guide have shielded the final verdict of the inspectors, who for a year have been tracking and evaluating the possible candidates to obtain the aforementioned distinction. These receive an invitation, and others specify that the pass is for two people. In this edition, the candidates who sound the most like three-stars are Noor (Córdoba), by Paco Morales; and Skina (Marbella), by Marcos Granda.
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Buenafuente, the comedian who imitates Adrià
Buenafuente began the gala by saying: "Some of you will know me as the comedian who imitates Ferran Adrià". It is a reference to his show Nadie Sabe Nada, alongside Berto Romero, where the character of Adrià – played by Andreu – is a recurring classic and appears in practically every programme. They had a hilarious face-off on Late Motive talking about their impersonations
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 19:31
Andreu Buenafuente presents the Michelin Gala / ALBERT GARCIA
The chefs who are candidates to receive stars tonight have already taken their seats after wishing each other luck in the seats seconds before the start of the gala. Andreu Buenafuente confesses: "I'm one of the best diners in Spain. If there's a star for that, I'll sign up."
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 19:26
David Muñoz at the Michelin gala. / M. R.
Dabiz Muñoz: "Spain is a country with fewer stars than it deserves"
Chef Dabiz Muñoz arrived at the auditorium wishing that "many stars" would fall and assured EL PAÍS that "Spain is still a country with fewer stars than it deserves". "What has been said in recent years that creativity is dead in Spain is absurd. Spain is the best example that this is not the case," added the Madrid-born chef, whose motto is "Avant-garde or die".
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 19:23
What is the real name of the Michelin doll and why is it white if the tires are black?
Although he is popularly known as the Michelin doll, his real name is Bibendum. About its creation, the guide, on its website, says that it was Édouard Michelin, founder of the brand, who, upon seeing a pile of tires piled up at the 1894 Universal Exhibition in Lyon, said to his brother André: "Look, if I had arms I would look like a man." Thus was born the famous figure that, at first, looked like a mummy and in its hand held – as a metaphor for the resistance to punctures and the robustness of tires – a cup full of nails and broken glass, accompanied by the Latin inscription Nunc est bibendum, which means "it's time to drink".
Regarding its white color, the guide argues that tires began to be black from 1912. Until then, "they were grayish-white or had a slightly translucent beige hue. The black color came later, when carbon was added to the rubber base in order to give the tires greater strength and durability."
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 19:13
Martin Berasategui: "This gala is for chefs as it is for children on Twelfth Night"
Chef Martín Berasategui, with 12 Michelin stars, compared the night of the Three Kings to the gala of the best restaurants on the red carpet. "For us, it's like the night of the Three Kings for children," he told one of the presenters of the previous ceremony.
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 19:10
Disfrutar chefs arrive at the gala
Disfrutar (Barcelona), with two Michelin stars, is one of the restaurants that most sounds like a favorite to achieve the highest distinction. On this, one of its chefs, Eduard Xatruch, has assured that both he and his colleagues, Oriol Castro and Mateu Casañas, do not expect "anything", only "that it will be a great night". "We expect there to be a lot of stars. If we get one, bless it," he said. The three chefs also lead the restaurants Compartir Barcelona and Compartir Cadaqués.
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 19:09
Martín Berasategui, on Disfrutar, another of the great favourites: "It's impossible to eat better"
"I've just come from eating at Disfrutar and I've made the best meal in my life by far," said Martín Berasategui, about the Barcelona restaurant, run by Oriol Castro, Mateu Casañas and Eduard Xatruch. "It's impossible to eat better," added the veteran, whose restaurants under his seal have accumulated 12 Michelin stars, making him the chef who has been on stage the most times at the guide's ceremonies.
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 19:07
Buenafuente, master of ceremonies, does not reveal the awards
"At this point, yes, I have that information, but I'm not going to give it to you," confessed Andreu Buenafuente, master of ceremonies of this gala. He knows the winners and how many stars are going to be awarded, but he doesn't let go. Buenafuente is the presenter of the Spanish ceremony, which for the first time is being held without Portugal.
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 19:01
The arrival of Eneko Atxa, a three-star
Chef Eneko Atxa, whose restaurants have accumulated five Michelin stars, arrives at the gala and tells the journalists of EL PAÍS that when he received three stars with the Azurmendi restaurant, it was the "most wonderful" day of his life.
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 18:55
Paco Morales, chef of Noor, one of the favorites for the three stars, arrives at the auditorium
Chef Paco Morales, chef of Noor (Cordoba) has just entered the auditorium. "A lot of things can happen, coming and revalidating is a dream and a prize for us," said the chef, whose restaurant, with two Michelin stars, is one of the most popular to get all three this afternoon.
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 18:51
Mar Rocabert MaltasBarcelona (SPAIN)
Does the Michelin Guide award the restaurants in the city where the gala is held?
Since 2010, when Michelin decided to hand out the stars during a gala, no restaurant has received the third star at home, although that does not mean that this time there are none.
The third prize for El Celler de Can Roca was awarded in Madrid, the one for the Cenador de Amós was given in Seville, it was in Lisbon where Dani García received it, in Girona it was announced, in Tenerife it went to Jordi Cruz and Ángel León, while in Toledo it was received by Atrio and Cocina Hermanos Torres. In addition, it was at the gala in Valencia when two fell at once to Smoked Room, Dani García's restaurant in Madrid.
According to these precedents, it should be ruled out that some candidates, who already have two, such as Disfrutar or Miramar, will get a third star.
But will Albert Adrià get two at once? It's an enigma.
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 18:41
What style should a restaurant be a star candidate?
One of the big misconceptions, warn those responsible for the guide, is that they have a preference for more formal restaurants. They claim that it is wrong and that the idea comes from about 30 or 40 years ago, when in most European cities the best cuisine used to be found in formal-style restaurants. Now all styles are candidates, including some Asian street food joints, or those that feed at the bar or at a table without a tablecloth. The star is awarded for what's on the plate. The style of a restaurant or its degree of formality or informality do not influence, in the slightest, the granting of the distinction.
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 18:38
El PaísPaz Álvarez
Who will be the chef who will take the stage the most times?
As every year, the question that is commented in a low voice is: how many times will Martín Berasategui take the stage tonight – the chef treasures 12 stars for the restaurants he manages, for the time being. He always accompanies the head chef of the award-winning restaurant on the boards. And it is expected that he will do so with José María Goñi, in charge of the kitchen of the Allard Club, which he has been in charge of since last spring. This year, according to the pools, he has a competitor: the Asturian sommelier and head waiter Marcos Granda, who may take the stage three times. One of his Marbella restaurants, Skina, is a favourite to receive the third star. He also hopes to make his debut in the French guide with Toki, the Japanese film that opened this year in Madrid, and with Marcos, another recent opening in Gijón.
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 18:36
The best-kept secret is Buenafuente
This year the Michelin Guide has shielded all the information about the stars. Even the press has not been informed of the embargoed information. And the cooks, by their own account, have not been given a single clue. They have only been invited. But there is one person who must know all the information right now. And it is the presenter of the gala, Andreu Buenafuente, who tonight will be in charge of welcoming the 'star-studded' chefs on stage.
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 18:31
Mar Rocabert MaltasBarcelona
Ruscalleda, one of the first people to arrive
Carme Ruscalleda has just arrived at the gala with her husband and celebrated the fact that the Michelin Awards are being awarded in the city. "It's about time," said the renowned chef. His son, Raül Balam, chef of the Moments (2 stars) is in the showcooking area preparing two of the dishes that will be served tonight.
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 18:29
What are Michelin stars?
According to the French tyre guide, it recognises restaurants that offer exceptional cuisine. To do this, they take into account five criteria, the same always, regardless of the place where the restaurant is located: quality of the ingredients, harmony of flavours, mastery of technique, the personality of the chef embodied through his cuisine and, above all, they ensure regularity over time and of the proposal as a whole.
ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 18:26
Live commentary of the 2024 Michelin Guide gala begins
Good afternoon. This Tuesday, the 2024 Michelin Guide gala will be held in Barcelona, which, for the first time, is not held jointly with Portugal. From EL PAÍS we will tell you all the details and prizes live. The ceremony, hosted by presenter Andreu Buenafuente, will take place from 18:30 p.m. in the Auditori Fòrum of the Barcelona International Convention Center and will award the restaurants with the awards known as stars. In addition, in this edition four awards will be given to professionals: Chef Mentor, Room Service, Young Chef and, as a novelty, the Michelin Sommelier Special 2024.
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ACT.28 NOV 2023 - 18:15
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