Switzerland has the extraordinary advantage of being able to reach a large number of ski resorts by train.
Verbier, the pearl of Valais, is no exception to the rule.
Le Châble station (800 m) is located at the foot of the cable car going up to the prestigious station, perched at an altitude of 1,500 m.
Its ski area, connected to neighboring villages, offers more than 410 km of slopes, as well as fabulous off-piste routes.
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It is this particularity of the destination that brings us here.
Our objective: to climb Mont Rogneux (3084 m) on touring skis, then to enjoy a well-deserved descent.
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Our touring ski route
1000 meters before the summit, the vegetation has now disappeared, completely covered by a thick snow cover.
Raphael Surmont
From Le Châble, 15 minutes by bus (n° 253) is enough to reach the village of Lourtier, further upstream in the Val de Bagnes, to put on your skis – equipped with seal skins – and set off for 2 days of climbing on the slopes facing Verbier.
Evening destination, the Brunet cabin, located a thousand meters higher.
We leave the houses to take the Chemin du Rosay between woods and pastures “whitened” by fine snowflakes, towards the Alpage de Sery-Laly.
The guide knows the shortcuts to avoid the very long bends of the road (passable in summer) which leads to the refuge.
La Cabane Brunet is open all winter, kindly run by the Corthay family who provide room and board (remember to reserve a fondue!).
This high-altitude stopover also offers the convenience of a hot shower and small, renovated dormitories (4 places).
Get up just early in the morning in a virgin and wild landscape, to cross the last 1,000 meters separating us from the summit, invisible from the refuge.
The vegetation has now disappeared, completely covered by a thick snow cover.
Welcome to the high mountains!
The guide leads the way through the middle of the rock piles.
We reach Mont Rogneux in three hours.
Read the fileSki touring: stations, equipment, alpine or Nordic... Our guide
A somewhat dizzying passage forced us to take off our shoes to avoid a perilous conversion (uphill hairpin bend) but what a pleasure to find ourselves on this promontory of a few square meters overlooking the valley and Verbier.
From there, you can clearly see Mount Dolent (3,819 m), a tri-point on the border between Switzerland, France and Italy.
The descent is exhilarating, especially as it takes an hour and a half to trace on stable snow – the guide's expertise – to reach Lourtier.
For the second evening, change of standing!
We have taken up residence at the Chalet Expérimental, the most mountainous address of the eponymous group which knows how to combine hospitality, mixology and catering like no other.
Obviously, we won't skip a drink at the bar before a dinner at Frenchie, the alter ego of the Parisian restaurant that its chef Gregory Marchand has been able to acclimatize to the great outdoors of Verbier.
Information and good addresses for a stay in Verbier
The Chalet Experimental, charming base camp for this Swiss stay.
Mr. Tripper
GET INFO:
from the tourist offices of Switzerland and Verbier.
GETTING THERE:
with the TGV Lyria which serves Paris-Lausanne, then take a Lausanne-Martigny-Le Chable train, around €120 return.
STAY:
at the Chalet Expérimental, from €375 per night in a double room with breakfast.
Around €100 for a dinner at Frenchie.
BOOK:
a guide from the Verbier guides company.
Allow €400 per person (group of 4) for the ascent of Mont Rogneux on touring skis over two days, and €85 per night with half-board at the Brunet cabin.
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