Special envoy to Moulins (Allier)
To discover
Stays in France: weekends, hotels and tailor-made stays from our partners
Here, the train is a topic of conversation.
If all goes well, two and a half hours are enough to reach Moulins from Paris, but often, it's longer!
Even if they hope that one day rail punctuality will be a reality, the people of Moulin take this with philosophy.
In Bourbonnais, we have a sense of the land, art and good living.
And nothing else can distract the 21,000 inhabitants from the peaceful atmosphere that reigns there.
Except perhaps the farmers, who have come to deposit manure in the city center in recent weeks.
Moulins in Allier, capital of the Bourbons, between Burgundy and Auvergne, prefecture town since the Revolution, has remained a discreet town where simplicity and authenticity are cultivated.
“
It’s an aristocratic environment, there are a lot of unique names
,” remarks Father Herbach, priest of the Notre-Dame du Bourbonnais parish, “
but it’s not at all bling-bling.
» Heritage, culture and local gastronomy (its emblem is Charolais beef) are the mainsprings of the Moulinois, who ask the priest for news of the triptych of the
Master of Moulins,
usually occupying the sacristy.
Painted in 1500 by the Flemish Jean Hey, the masterpiece is currently being restored at the Louvre.
A facsimile currently replaces it.
Another local symbol, Gabrielle Chanel.
She lived part of her youth with the sisters, then as an apprentice in a haberdashery in Moulins.
It was here that she was given the nickname Coco, while she tried her hand at singing in the years 1904-1905.
The great lady of fashion would not have denied the very active costume museum (CNCS), installed in the former military barracks, where Étienne Balsan, the man who changed her destiny, officiated.
moulins-tourisme.com
The weekend route in Moulins, proposed by Figaroscope.
What to visit in Moulins?
1. Anne de Beaujeu Museum
Saint George
, entourage of Thomas Regnaudin, at the Anne de Beaujeu Museum.
Anne-de-Beaujeu Museum, Jérôme Mondière
You have to imagine the palace of the Dukes of Bourbon which once occupied the entire site.
Now, at each end of the colonnade, there is the Maison Mantin, and the Anne de Beaujeu Museum.
It is here, in the Renaissance wing, that you can admire the “Treasures of the Baroque”, a rich exhibition dedicated to artistic commissions in Bourbonnais in the 17th century.
“Our presentation seeks to restore the image of the Seicento
,” confides the guide, “
a century left too long in obscurity
.”
Paintings of Virgins and Child, expressive wooden sculptures, portraits of sponsors from the region, there is something to marvel at the works of Pierre Parrocel or Rémy Vuibert, student of the famous Simon Vouet.
Several of these pieces, rarely brought together, come from around ten churches in the department.
Often dusted or restored, they offer their most beautiful shine.
(Until January 5, 2025).
5, place du Colonel-Laussedat.
Such.
: 04 70 20 48 47. muees.allier.fr
2. Maison Mantin
In the same architectural complex, at the other end: a 19th century bourgeois building, nicknamed “Sleeping Beauty”, which remained closed for almost a century, until 2010. The home of Louis Mantin, a wealthy banker from Moulins, which donated it to the city, is halfway between the English manor and the neo-Gothic castle.
Full of fabulous art objects, Aubusson tapestries, old stained glass windows… the place is an astonishing architectural and artistic testimony to the cutting edge of Belle Époque modernity.
Guided tour required.
museums.allier.fr
3. National Center for Costume and Stage
A costume from the Lido, Paris, 1990, exhibited at the National Center for Costume and Stage.
Loan Lido/CNCS/Florent GIFFARD
It is THE flagship of Moulinois heritage.
In the former 17th century cavalry barracks, on the other side of the Allier river, the CNCS preserves more than 10,000 theater, dance and opera costumes, from the mid-19th century to the present day.
A fantastic reserve for Parisian institutions, the center also produces high-level thematic exhibitions.
“Cabarets!”
», on view until April 30, brings together some 120 colorful costumes, from the Lido, Moulin Rouge and other Paradis Latin.
Feathers and sequins, embroidery and frills... we'll be amazed.
Don't miss the very touching Nureyev collection, as well as the Stage, the new space dedicated to set design and scenography.
The next exhibition, in May, will be dedicated to Philippe Decouflé.
After the visit, we make a gourmet stop at the brasserie decorated by Christian Lacroix, a friend of the house.
Open 7 days a week for lunch only, or for a drink until 7 p.m.
Villars district, route de Montilly.
Such.
: 04 70 20 76 20. cncs.fr
9. Experiment: decoration on glass
Sophie Djian, at the House of Crafts and Design.
House of Arts and Design
Sophie Djian is a former Parisian who came to settle with her husband in Moulins around ten years ago.
Together, they bought the Chapel of the Good Shepherd, which was being transformed into a stained glass workshop.
During this time, it was at the brand new MAD (Maison des métiers d'art et du design), an incubator for aspiring artisans, that she created her decorations on glass.
And runs workshops on Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. (€25) to learn how to cut out scraps of colored glass which become patterns glued to a support.
At the end, everyone leaves with their original piece.
MAD, 23, cours Anatole-France.
Such.
: 04 63 83 34 12. agglo-moulins.fr
Excursion: Souvigny, the “eldest daughter of Cluny”
Priory of Saint-Pierre and Saint-Paul of Souvigny.
Sophie de Santis
We cross the Bourbonnais countryside to reach Souvigny, just 11 km from Moulins.
Stone houses, narrow cobbled streets, the “eldest daughter of Cluny”, is a true gem of a completely peaceful medieval aristocratic village (less than 2000 inhabitants), where time seems to stand still.
Founded between 915 and 920, the priory complex made up of the church of Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul and the gardens - accessible through the museum - bears witness to the rich past of the Dukes of Bourbon, who established their necropolis there.
This earned Souvigny the nickname “Saint-Denis du Bourbonnais”, where the graves of Peter II and his wife Anne of France, buried in the 15th century, are located.
A campaign of archaeological excavations (2001) made it possible to exhume treasures, and, among them, the fragments of the recumbent figures of Saint Mayeul and Saint Odilon (reconstructed and visible since 2009).
We learn that thanks to these two abbots, the town was an important place of pilgrimage in the Middle Ages.
Today, Souvigny continues to restore its heritage and is a candidate (with five other municipalities in Allier) for UNESCO World Heritage listing, as a Cluniac site.
Verdict in 2026. In the meantime, the free tour of the premises (every day from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.) is fascinating, to discover the secrets of Souvigny, still marked by its nobility of yesteryear.
Want to spend the night there?
Stop off at La Porterie
(bed and breakfast from €120 per double room. 2, cours Jean-Jaures, Tel.: 04
70
43
12
07.
allier-auvergne-tourisme.com
)
.
Tourist office, 11, rue François Péron.
Such.
: 04 70 44 14 14. moulins-tourisme.com
Where to sleep in Moulins?
4. Mercure Hotel de Paris
A stone's throw from the cathedral, the 4-star hotel with 30 rooms (including 10 suites) is located in a beautiful building dating from 1834. The former guest house, on the route of the famous Nationale 7, is today a comfortable address that cultivates a sense of welcome and offers an offer adapted to current tastes, avoiding plastic accessories.
Most ?
A very hearty breakfast (€19.50): loose teas, large selection of seeds, fresh and dried fruits, several homemade cakes, gluten-free madeleines, yogurts in glass jars, etc.).
The downside?
Access to the spa (jacuzzi, hammam, sauna) costs €20 for customers.
Double room from €172 with breakfast.
21, rue de Paris.
Tel.: 04 70 44 00 58. all.accor.com
5. Le Clos de Bourgogne
The Clos de Bourgogne.
The Clos de Bourgogne
At the exit of the old town, the charming 18th century residence with garden, which has 11 recently renovated rooms, is simply decorated.
A tip: have tea or a drink by the fireplace in the red lounge overlooking the park, in an old-fashioned and delicious atmosphere.
Double room from €140 to €210.
Breakfast: €17.
83, rue de Bourgogne.
Tel.: 04 70 44 03 00. clos-de-bourgogne.com
Where to sit?
6. The Air Bubble
Vincent Hoareau is the gifted chef, whose trajectory was not completely mapped out.
Born in the region, this graduate of Beaux-Arts de Clermont pursued a career in design before venturing into cooking.
He learned on the job with great chefs like Thierry Marx, then opened his own restaurant around thirty years ago.
For five years, his Bulle d'Air, in the heart of the pedestrian district, has also been a bubble of pleasure, where the 52-year-old chef offers careful, semi-gastronomic cuisine.
The menu (in 3 courses) at €39 keeps all its promises with in particular the Erquy scallops seared on creamy risotto (a bit overcooked) or the duck fillet cooked at low temperature with blackcurrant chutney and red wine.
22, place d’Allier.
Tel.: 04 70 34 24 61.
7. The Grand Café
You have to go there at least once to see and be seen.
Rococo stucco, mirror effects, red benches… this brasserie from 1899 embodies the grandeur of the Belle Époque.
Excellent observation point to learn about the habits of the people of Moulin at lunchtime.
On the menu, meat lovers don't miss the famous steak from the region's Charolais butcher (sauce of your choice and baby potatoes €18.50).
Duo formula: day dish, fromage blanc, red fruit coulis (€18.50).
Open 7 days a week.
Saturday from 8 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Sunday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
49, place d’Allier.
Tel.: 04 70 44 00 05. legrandcafe-moulins.fr
Delicacies
8. The gratton pump
Be careful, we're not joking with the gratton pump here!
Even if its name may make you smile, this brioche with grilled bacon is a must for the Bourbonnais aperitif.
Recipe ?
A classic brioche dough in which the butter is replaced by grattons (waste from melted pork fat).
Often served lukewarm.
There is even a Brotherhood of the gratton pump, that’s saying something!
Where to buy the best?
At Fins Palais, at caterer Éric Geoffroy.
The large one of 500 g;
€8.50;
the small one of 250 g, €4.40.
26-28, rue Datas.
Such.
: 04 70 44 07 50. auxfinspalais-traiteur.fr