A long room plunged into darkness, thick carpet, trays of glasses of champagne, the music of
Basic Instinct
... Yes, you are at
Tom Ford
2024!
And yes, Sharon Stone sits front row, along with Uma Thurman and Amber Valetta for the femmes fatales category, while Primal Scream frontman Bobby Gillespie, along with his sons Wolf and Lux, take on the role of lanky rockers at black glasses.
Vintage but classy... Beams of light sweep the catwalk when
Niggas in Paris
by Jay-Z and Kanye West sounds, opening the parade of 66 ultra-sexy models.
For his second season, Peter Hawkings uses the same devilishly effective formula: digested porno-chic, very fitted three-piece suits on tanned skin, latte-colored wool polo shirts unbuttoned to the navel, evening dresses that leave little room for imagination... And add, in winter, belted officer coats with large gold buttons, blond shearling jackets worn over a silver net dress, champagne or midnight blue python peacoats.
It is rich, opulent, easy to understand and very well made since it was made by the Italian Zegna who acquired the license for ready-to-wear and accessories from the owner Estée Lauder.
The prices are very high and the development strategy ambitious in a tense market context, but the customers are still there twenty years after the creation of the brand by the legendary Texan!
Read alsoIn Milan at Fendi and Prada, a chic and shocking wardrobe
The fall-winter 2024-25 collection by Tom Ford Tom Ford
The 1980s with their Asian tropism return like a little (catchy?) refrain in the inspirations of designers this season.
One of them can claim it, he even invented them: Giorgio Armani.
So, we are delighted to see again in his
Emporio Armani
collection his famous languid suits accessorized with a beret and small round sunglasses, his sets of tops with high collars and beige carrot pants, his loose perfectos and long overcoats without lapels.
On their heads, the models wear eighties skullcaps, which add style to black velvet sheaths with levitating hems.
In the evening, there is a lot of talk about it, as the show's note of intent underlines, “
a tribute to a luminous night sky, dotted with stars and dominated by a sparkling moon.
(…) In a blaze of metallic reflections, stars, embroidered moons and rhinestone chains.
» In the end, under a shower of (fake) snow, the women, all smiles and armed with umbrellas, put on a show in columbine dresses with ball petticoats or in tuxedos studded with moons and stars.
Only black
.
The Emporio Armani fall-winter 2024-25 collection
In Milan, a whole new generation of artistic directors is taking the reins of major Italian brands.
Last season marked the debut of Sabato de Sarno at Gucci (ex-Valentino) and Simone Bellotti at Bally (ex-Gucci).
This, we note the arrival of Walter Chiapponi at Blumarine (ex-Tod's), Matteo Tamburini at Tod's (ex-Bottega Veneta) and the only non-Italian, since Argentinian, Adrian Appiolaza at
Moschino
, transfer of Loewe where he worked for ten years in women's clothing with Jonathan Anderson.
A great pedigree therefore, and quite a bit of experience for this designer born in 1972 in Buenos Aires.
He needed at least that to take up the challenge of succeeding Davide Renne who was appointed to the style of Moschino last November and died suddenly ten days later.
Arriving in January, Appiolaza had to take up the torch and the fabrics already ordered to make a wardrobe that resembles him.
Of course, he insists backstage that this is “chapter zero”, but the parade is absolutely not botched.
One of the Argentinian's great strengths is being a renowned fashion collector, particularly from the 1980s-1990s (Yohji Yamamoto, Jean Paul Gaultier, Martin Margiela, etc.).
He therefore knows very well the world and codes of the enfant terrible of Italian fashion, Franco Moschino who founded the brand and died of AIDS just thirty years ago.
“
I knew Franco’s archives were hidden somewhere
,” he explains backstage.
I found them and spotted some of his very identifiable, very signed pieces that I thought I could update.
The genesis of this collection is simply his vision, his world, his dreams, which I have transposed into our world today.
»
This archive enthusiast who owns some of Franco's emblematic suit vests (often printed with fun motifs), therefore sends to open the show, a Milanese bourgeois woman in a trench coat (very beautiful) worn on bare skin, a huge pearl necklace, red pumps , (fake) snake gloves, baguette and celery coming out of a kraft bag.
Shortly after, a Franco-looking boy follows with earrings, a silk shirt with trompe-l'oeil suspender prints and wide jeans.
Oversized t-shirts, vests with suspender belts, silk tie suits, Smiley shopping bags, question mark prints and polite political messages (Peace, Love, Italian flag, etc.) already give a nice overview of this new Moschino treads the ridge “
between the theatricality so dear to Franco and the need today to offer clothes that speak to people, that they want to wear.
»
The fall-winter 2024-25 collection from Moschino Moschino
Let's admit it straight away, we didn't have the "ref" of the
Sportmax
fashion show , Friday morning, which was held at the Milan Triennale.
We clearly saw 1980s inspirations in these tight-shoulder suits with wide red belts, these asymmetrical bustier dresses, these boy's shirts buttoned under the chin and very fine leather ties, these working girl strappy pumps
,
the palette black, red and royal blue.
But how can we relate to history the leather leggings, the boxing shorts with elastic waistbands and this portrait of a woman in the style of a vinyl cover appearing almost everywhere in the collection?
A little later, the Italian brand sent us the press release and therefore the inspiration: “
The singer Nico and the atmosphere of her famous album
Camera obscura”, “
the magnetism of the music icons of the 1980s, like Grace Jones, Debbie Harry, Annie Lennox and Siouxsie Sioux
”, “
a muse of Helmut Newton
”, “
Rachel in Blade Runner
”, “
Buffalo style, 1980s counterculture
”… Don’t throw it away!
But ultimately, behind the slightly dated and dark styling, we let ourselves be taken in by the vintage charm of this girl in a blazer who stands out on this season of Milanese catwalks.