We come to William Bernet's bistro for the quality of its meats and the perfect cooking, always done in a steel pan.
The Severo is a reference which has resisted the chopping blows of health crises, the dictates of a hygienist era, subject to a punitive ecology which would chop finely, if it could, these polluters of meat.
You have to have something under your belt to serve a short menu which highlights, under the spotlight, pig's trotter, succulent crispy calf's head, Galician blonde, limousine, charolaise... in steak, tartare or tataki.
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In March, beef from Bazas, a small IGP from Nouvelle-Aquitaine, will attract connoisseurs.
“Meat is our DNA”
explains, if necessary, this Vosges native born on the family farm, above the cow barn.
Also read “It’s all good” No. 26: Our 15 good addresses for beef lovers
More comfortable with the block than the pen, the kid began an apprenticeship with a local butcher, then he worked in Paris for the Boucheries Nivernaises.
It was in 1986 that the thirty-year-old took over a restaurant at 8 rue des Plantes in the 14th arrondissement, which has since become a haunt for lovers of good food.
“I’m afraid they’ll disappear.”
We only do very good with excellent.
This apostle of French and European livestock -
"Spain and even Portugal are doing great things"
- buys directly from trusted breeders:
"An animal must never have been hungry or thirsty, no entrants, a respectful slaughter…”,
he explains.
Because this former
louchébem
knows how to prepare sirloins and sirloins, controlling their maturation from 30 to 90 days depending on the breed -
"meat that smells like it has been vacuum-packed and poorly dressed"
- he built his laboratory.
That very morning, his expert hands peeled a beef fillet, removing the aponeuroses, focusing on the chain.
A piece that costs around €30 per kilo while supermarkets sell ready-to-cook sirloin steaks for €17.
I never discuss prices!
Our breeders do not make a good enough living from their work
William Bernet, restaurateur
“What have these big distributors given to the farmers? A handshake?”,
this shy person protests.
“I never discuss prices!
Our breeders do not make a good enough living from their work.
I know one who switched to cereals, easier than feeding and caring for cattle.
I'm afraid that one day they will disappear.
If they go back to the streets, it’s certain, they won’t be alone.”
In the meantime, William Bernet invites you to support them by purchasing quality meat, all cuts.
“To make your life cheaper, cook!”
he advises.
A pot-au-feu will produce a broth the next day with vermicelli and shepherd’s pie.”
Abandoned peasant common sense.