“The only thing you will never taste on board is rabbit,”
laughs the French chef of the American company Oceania Cruises, Alexis Quaretti.
Those with sea legs will have heard of the ancient superstition.
Accused of having sunk many ships by gnawing on hulls and ropes, the animal is now a guarantee of misfortune at sea – even if cooked with mustard.
Fortunately, this is not the case for other exceptional dishes, foie gras, lobster and truffle, cooked by the 140 cooks of the
Vista
, the company's flagship.
They are then served to the 1,200 guests seated in its nine restaurants.
Italian, Asian and even healthy cuisine: a plethora of offerings, which allows this cruise line to enjoy the
“finest cuisine
at sea
”
.
As culinary director, Alexis Quaretti moves from one boat to another to choose products, design menus and train teams.
“The question of supply is crucial: we can serve everything, but not every day, depending on the stopovers.
You have to anticipate to have perfect control of stocks
,” he explains.
If Oceania has made it a leitmotif, most companies pull out all the stops to lure gourmets.
Explora Journeys, the MSC group's luxury cadet born in 2021, invites internationally renowned chefs to take turns creating the menus for the Anthology restaurant.
Until the end of March, it's the turn of Swedish Emma Bengtsson, two macaroons with Aquavit from New York.
The eight-course dinner is added to the cruise ticket: €190 per person, food and wine pairings extra.
This taste for good food is not new: it has been part of the decorum of cruising since the first transatlantic voyages.
“At the turn of the 20th century, taking to the open sea was still scary: we therefore tried to distract the passengers.
This goes through the table, especially in France.
The Compagnie Générale Transatlantique even makes it a tool of seduction for rich Americans
,” relates Dorian Dlongeville, director-curator of the Dunkirk port museum.
Nothing is too beautiful: sophisticated dishes, Christofle cutlery and Lalique glasses, marble decorations and fine gold gilding...
And, contrary to popular belief, these considerations are not reserved for first class.
“From the 1930s, on the
Normandie
, the cuisine was elaborate, even in the third grade, with a real restaurant and a gala meal per crossing.
Wine is also included at your discretion regardless of the ticket – even if, obviously, it is not the same
!
»
Cruises, the new El Dorado for foodies
In the kitchens of Ponant.
PONANT/Francois Lefebvre Franco
Today either, beautiful plates are not the prerogative of luxury crossings.
The latest addition to the giant MSC, the
World Europa
is the first ship to carry not only a microbrewery, but also a hydroponic garden, that is to say without soil, where the plants used in the kitchen are grown.
As for the Archipelago, the ultimate restaurant on board Costa ships, it now opens for lunch.
Enough to put the talent of three great chefs Hélène Darroze, Ángel León and Bruno Barbieri, within everyone's reach, the menu being offered at the attractive price of €29.
To please sweet lovers, the Italian company also devotes an annual chocolate cruise: cocoa flows freely from breakfast to dinner, and is the subject of round tables, tastings, workshops... The third version of the
“Choco Cruise”
is announced for November 2024.
“
We have fewer constraints, so we can offer real work in the dining room, at the stand or at the table, cutting a bar or setting up a millefeuille.
»
Franck Garanger, culinary director of Explora Journeys
The list of gastronomy legends who are taking the plunge tends to prove it.
In 2019, Celebrity Cruises initiated a prestigious partnership with Daniel Boulud, 2 Michelin stars, and since then, gastronomic watchdog of the American company.
In 2022, the most New York of French chefs even opened his first table at sea, Le Voyage by Daniel Boulud, designed by the French architects of the Jouin Manku studio aboard the
Celebrity Beyond
, one of the sister ships of the collection of Edge ships.
“On the water, there are two crucial points: the quality of the bed and the quality of the table.
In the end, we spend eight hours in one and eight hours in the other
,” explains Franck Garanger Rights Managed
“On the water, there are two crucial points: the quality of the bed and the quality of the table. In the end, we spend eight hours in one and eight hours in the other
,” explains the culinary director of Explora Journeys, Franck Garanger (another
Frenchie
!).
According to him, sea travel also cultivates an art of service which no longer exists elsewhere, due to lack of personnel.
“We have fewer constraints, so we can offer real work in the dining room, at the stand or at the table, cutting a bar or setting up a millefeuille.
»
Transparency is a key point for 21st century restaurateurs.
Marian Weyo / Shutterstock / Marian Weyo
Reassuring both in terms of technique and the freshness of the dishes served, transparency is a key point for 21st century restaurateurs.
Hurtigruten understands this well.
The Norwegian lists on its site all the farms, breeders and growers supplying its ships on the Coastal Express line.
“Our cheese comes from Lofoten, our eggs from the Andvik farm, even some of the root vegetables are local.
In total, 80% of what we serve is local
,” assures Christine Bois, general manager for France, before detailing the typical dishes served on board the
MS Trollfjord
.
We can't resist mentioning one: bidos, Sami reindeer stew.
Playing the change of scenery card rather than serving burgers or pizzas: a winning bet, she whispers.
“Even the French, the pickiest of our customers, are delighted with the meals served on board.
The journey also involves the plate
!
»
Alain Ducasse:
“
On board, everything must be precise
”
A leading figure in the French art of living, Ponant multiplies prestigious collaborations with the big names in gastronomy: Anne-Sophie Pic, Pierre Hermé, Relais & Châteaux… The most starred chef on the planet, Alain Ducasse, He supervises the culinary offerings on Ponant ships and opened his first gourmet restaurant at sea, aboard the
Commandant Charcot
.
On board, the maps are constantly changing.
Agurtxane Concellon
LE FIGARO MAGAZINE - What is the difference between designing a menu for land and a menu at sea
?
Alain Ducasse
- On board, the menus change constantly, whereas a classic restaurant can keep the same menu for several weeks.
Furthermore, it is essential to give travelers choice, to avoid fatigue.
On Le
Commandant Charcot
, we offer three places: the gourmet restaurant Nuna (which means
“earth”
in Inuit), the buffet Sila (
“sky”
) and a terrace, Inneq (
“fire”
).
Sila and Inneq offer refined, healthy and tasty cuisine;
Nuna, a contemporary version of French haute cuisine.
In addition to the obligation to renew the offer, the other constraint is obviously that careful organization is required so that all the products are properly shipped on the day of departure.
You can't get emergency help when you're in the middle of the ice!
On the other hand, constraint is always a source of creativity.
As the boat still makes a few stops, we spotted local fishermen who, during our visit, can supply us.
Which is obviously a very welcome opportunity for contact with local communities.
How do we avoid waste on board
?
Exactly like on land: we strive to use all of the products, we are economical with water and energy and, in accordance with Ponant's commitments, we eliminate single-use plastic.
Was the maritime world familiar to you before Ponant
?
In any case, I have a certain habit of restoration under constraint.
For fifteen years, we have been designing “special occasion”
dishes
for astronauts on the International Space Station.
These dishes were even used in 2006 by the Transgreenland expedition, in which Prince Albert II of Monaco participated.
And then, in 2018, I built
Ducasse sur Seine
, the first 100% electric boat with a restaurant, for cruises on the Seine.
I admit that I really like the challenge that this type of mission represents.
And the Commandant Charcot is still the best example, because the ship combines a very high level of technicality and exceptional services.
It allows you to go where others don't go!
Our selection of gourmet cruises
IN THE BALTIC SEA: THE MAGIC OF CHRISTMAS IN THE NORTH
Or
?
From Helsinki to Helsinki
When
?
From December 11 to 20, 2024.
A few days before the end-of-year holidays, Ponant will set sail for the Baltic Sea for the first time in winter.
This enchanting cruise will pass through the Stockholm archipelago, where the ship will stop for one night, the island of Gotland, the cities of Gdansk, Riga and Tallinn.
For three days, Alain Ducasse will be present aboard the Commandant Charcot for signing sessions and round tables.
Between two Christmas markets, the Kaviari house, partner of the cruise, will offer the 245 passengers the opportunity to discover its exceptional caviar.
Ponant (04.91.36.41.65).
“Scandinavian magic and Christmas markets”
, 10-day/9-night cruise.
From €8,690 per person.
FROM LISBON TO HONFLEUR: FLAVORS AND SCENTS OF THE ATLANTIC
Cruise
“Atlantic Europe, the taste of Finisterres”
SDP / SDP
In the spring, the French company Exploris offers a cabotage trip along the Atlantic coasts of Portugal, Spain and our sweet France, with stopovers in Porto, Galicia, Belle-Île-en-Mer but also in the Channel Islands of Jersey and Sark.
In addition to exciting excursions on the Iberian Peninsula – notably with the possibility of hiking on one of the most beautiful paths of Compostela, or even discovering the specificities of vinho verde in the west of the Douro – passengers will be able to attend the conferences of the Nantes chocolatier Vincent Guerlais and master cheesemaker Pascal Beillevaire, while tasting the dishes of Morbihan chef Jean-Yves Guého.
Explore.
Cruise
“Atlantic Europe, the taste of Finisterres”
, 9 days/8 nights, from May 6 to 14.
From €3,280 in Premium cabin aboard Exploris One.
FROM VALLETTA TO ROME: AUTUMN SWEETNESS
“Culinary Luminaries”
cruise
SDP / ERIC MARTIN / ERIC MARTIN
For its annual cruise dedicated to good food, Oceania Cruises, a company
“created by gourmets for gourmets”
, treats itself to an autumn wandering in the Mediterranean.
The route is rich in stopovers.
It will be Kotor in Montenegro, then Dubrovnik and Split in Croatia.
After an incursion into Puglia, in Bari, the cruise will make a detour to Greece.
To approach the inspiring Corfu and head off to discover Olympia from the small port of Katakolon, before swimming again in Italian waters, from Catania to Rome via Naples.
On the program aboard the Marina?
A 100% gourmet festival of round tables in cooking classes, and wine tastings while walking through the markets... All hosted by master chefs from France Alexis Quaretti and Éric Barale.
Notice to fans: every Oceania cruise begins with a great seafood brunch!
Oceania Cruises.
“Culinary Luminaries”
cruise
, 11 days/10 nights aboard the Marina.
From October 16 to 26, from €3,599 in cabin with veranda.