The railway network of the largest Mediterranean island follows a tortuous route, weaving along the coasts or inland on 1,370 kilometers of tracks, of which only a little less than half is electrified.
Its construction, begun in the 1860s when Italy was unifying, experienced delays and financial difficulties.
Accomplice of these pitfalls, the relief of the island forces the train to wind between Etna and the Madonie or Nebrodi massifs which flow into the sea. More than for the convenience of passengers, the first promoters of the network thought firstly to the transport of goods, such as sulfur, which Sicily exported.
Since then, the lack of maintenance of the network has led to the closure of certain sections, such as the Palermo-Trapani which had the advantage of allowing travelers without a car to embark towards the delicious Egadi archipelago.
To discover
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Despite everything, Sicily today has a rather efficient network, allowing non-motorized tourists to easily discover its main places of interest.
But to go around it, it is better to abandon the idea of describing a perfect circle: that would force the traveler to make painful changes and very long connections.
To access Trinacria (“three-pointed island”), we leave Milan or Rome by night train to wake up in southern Calabria.
From there, the entire convoy boards a ferry that connects the mainland to Sicily.
During the crossing (around thirty minutes), we leave our berth to reach the bridge from where the Sicilian coasts are revealed in the first light of day.
Once on the island, there are still a good two hours of travel to finish your journey in Catania or Syracuse without having to change trains.
A great introduction to a stay that should last at least two weeks in order to make the most of all its charms.
Our itinerary to tour Sicily
Syracuse
The historic center of Syracuse is located on the Ortigia peninsula.
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Iodine is in the air, the sea is calling us.
From Syracuse train station, a fifteen-minute walk takes us to the Umberto Bridge, the gateway to the Ortigia peninsula, the historic heart of the city.
We stroll there, passing by the ancient Temple of Apollo, the fish market and the former Jewish ghetto where the sound of the waves reaches us.
The terraces where time stretches around a creamy
granita
hold us back, unless we board a boat to swim off the coast of the city.
The next day, before continuing the rail journey, we linger among the ruins of Neapolis and the famous ear of Dionysus.
Catania
We turn back towards Catania, where we passed without stopping.
Archaeological remains and wild beaches pass by the window.
With a little luck, the journey is made aboard a “Pop” train.
Air-conditioned, comfortable and spacious, these brand new regional trains are becoming widespread in the Sicilian fleet.
After a 1h15 journey, here is Catania, the second city of Sicily with its 300,000 inhabitants.
Its small center, massed around the Sant'Agata Cathedral, is overflowing with life.
During the day, we seek freshness in the churches.
At night, we mingle in the old town's
movida
.
The Etna tour
From Catania to Riposto, 110 km of rails almost completely encircle Etna.
On the flanks of the volcano, the Circumetnea crosses stony landscapes dotted with villages and vineyards where volcanic grape varieties grow.
There are still old trains running there which will appeal to lovers of old trains.
The part from Adrano to Randazzo, located in the Etna Natural Park, is the most picturesque.
In Catania, departure is from Borgo station, four metro stops from the central station.
For wine lovers, we recommend the excursion aboard the
Treno dei Vini
which includes a guided tour with stops in two cellars where, of course, tastings are on the program.
Taormina
At Taormina-Giardini station, buses go to the upper town, including the ancient theater with views of Mount Etna.
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Perched 200 meters above sea level, Taormina is not directly served by train.
You have to get off at the beautiful seaside station of Taormina-Giardini, a stone's throw from the beaches, then reach the upper town by shuttle (10 minutes) or on foot (30 minutes).
Then, the medieval streets are entirely open to pedestrians.
The highlight of the show is the Greco-Roman amphitheater, with its ruined stage that opens onto the Mediterranean and Etna.
The north coast
Cefalù is just 45 minutes by train from Palermo.
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Our tour of Sicily is about to negotiate its first turn.
To do this, we change in Messina, at the eastern tip of the island.
We then drive on the northern line, wedged between the last foothills of the Nebrodi and the sea. In Milazzo, we can stop to take the boat to the Aeolian Islands.
The only problem is that the station is 3 kilometers from the city center and taxis to the port charge fifteen euros for the ride.
Otherwise, we continue towards Cefalù (two hours journey from Messina).
Nestled under its rock, the pearl of the Tyrrhenian coast nestled against a gigantic rock seduces with its Romanesque cathedral and its ancient streets which take us back to ancient Greece.
At the end of the day, head to the beach to admire a dazzling golden-pink sunset.
Palermo
Continuing along the north coast, an obligatory stop at Palermo, the Mediterranean capital par excellence and the largest city on the island.
Here, the palaces are Arab-Norman, the churches are baroque, the markets are colorful and gourmet.
Joyfully chaotic, the city has its islands of calm in the ancient palaces, courtyards or churches overloaded with marble.
Agrigento
From Agrigento station, the Valley of the Temples is accessible by shuttle.
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Two hours from Palermo, we finally enter the land with this train to Agrigento, which crosses the Sicilian “granary” and its sun-golden hills.
From the station, take the shuttle to the Valley of the Temples, below, where the most imposing Greek buildings stand proudly.
Our journey ends there, the circle is almost complete.
Because to return to Syracuse, our starting point, we would have to get involved in a railway imbroglio that we prefer to avoid.
Itineraries, prices… Practical information
The national company Trenitalia (trenitalia.com) provides connections within Sicily as well as between the island and the continent by Intercity day and night.
Between 12 and 15 trains pass every day, or on average one every hour.
Allow around €40 to connect Syracuse to Agrigento following the suggested route and stages.
The line which circles Etna is operated by the company Ferrovia Circumetnea (circumetnea.it).
Count between €1.90 and €6.80 per trip depending on the distance or €13 for unlimited trips over the day.
For the excursion aboard the Etna Vine Train (Treno dei Vini dell'Etna), consult the website stradadelvinodelletna.it.
Departure every Thursday and Saturday from April 4 to November 30.
The excursion (€160 per adult) includes the train ride, guide, bus transfers to a historic village (Castiglione di Sicilia or Randazzo) and two cellars as well as wine tastings.
“The train route of the month”
From the small picturesque line to the long journey through several countries,
Le Figaro
Voyage offers you every month an idea for an itinerary to take by train.
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