Start from a blank sheet.
This is the concept of Marni
's anniversary collection (30 years)
for next winter.
Unlike many of his peers in a similar situation, Francesco Risso has not delved into the archives of the Milanese brand.
“
With my team, we asked ourselves what Marni was for us, without any reference, any image, or external influence.
Starting from a blank page.
We even covered the office up to the windows with it so as not to be disturbed by anything.
That's when we started to draw, drape, sew but also fold, glue, paint.
»
In a series of vaulted rooms covered with crumpled white paper, an Italian choir and musicians take their place dressed in immaculate togas, and sing types of liturgical chants... to techno music.
A device like the Sunday Service, by Kanye West.
The rapper, who has been in controversy for eighteen months, is sitting in the front row, accompanied by his wife, in a black vinyl thong bodysuit.
“
Kanye is a long-time friend.
And a customer.
That’s why he’s there
,” explains the designer to an American journalist who questions him about his presence.
If the photo of the provocative couple made the rounds on social networks, this collection is crazy and inspired a little less.
And that's a shame.
These girls who look like “paper dolls” are crazy poetic.
A first series of giant tulip dresses, necklined down to the navel, is cut from thick black fabrics.
Then the same model returns in leopard print and, finally, stained with thick brushstrokes.
Followed by strange silhouettes in patchwork of faux fur and shearling worthy of the Flintstones.
There are also magnificent fitted suits, sometimes two-tone - black in front, blue behind, sometimes in pink leather, sometimes in gray mohair.
We feel that Risso and his team took childish pleasure in imagining this stunning collection.
Backstage, Renzo Rosso, CEO of OTB, owner of Marni but also of Maison Margiela, Diesel, and whose turnover has reached almost $2 billion this year, is jubilant.
And takes the time to take a little selfie with Kanye West.
Marni’s fall-winter 2024-25 shows Marni
What does the
Ferrari
brand mean to you ?
Beautiful red cars, no doubt.
For the older ones, the charisma of Enzo;
for Netflix subscribers, the heroes of
Formula 1: Drive to Survive
;
and for speed racing enthusiasts, Lewis Hamilton, who has just been recruited by the team.
On the other hand, probably not a Milan Fashion Week collection.
And yet, since 2021, Rocco Iannone has been designing for the car manufacturer, keen to diversify its brand image, chic and above all shocking fashion, nourished by textile innovations.
This season, fabrics shine and wave.
Midi skirts and cargo pants in Scuderia red vinyl (obviously), mechanic's suit and full skirt in denim coated with a resin that catches the light, evening dress in metallic silk, suits in crumpled moiré or translucent organdy for ladies and gentlemen who are not shy, but have the extraordinary
lifestyle
that goes with a Testarossa.
Ferrari's fall-winter 2024-25 shows Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Backstage, Maximilian Davis, the artistic director of
Ferragamo
, explains to a handful of journalists the concept of his fall winter 2024-2025 fashion show, which has just ended: “
I was inspired by the 1920s. During this period, clothes were a way to celebrate freedom
, explains the 28-year-old Briton with Caribbean origins.
This notion resonates with me, with my heritage and with Ferragamo.
» On the dark wooden floor which serves as the podium, no girls with boyish hairstyles and cigarette holders, no flapper dress (or at least a very revisited version more Kylie Jenner than Louise Brooks), nor three-piece suit .
But military coats and pea coats with big belts cut from thick woolen cloth, which add a twist to dresses in airy silk chiffon or translucent lacquered organdy.
Marabou feathers on broken-heeled pumps or clutches highlight the approach.
The capes - an “
essential element of the Ferragamo archives
”, we can read in the note of intent -, the suits with workwear-style patch pockets, the fisherman's thigh-high boots make a welcome counterpoint to the fluid, close-fitting drapes.
These ladies each have an it-bag under their arm, including the already very recognizable Hug (with its two buckles when folding the corners) in an XXL pouch format.
Or the new Fiamma, a shoulder bag with an asymmetrical flap, always in a version that matches the outfit.
This wardrobe, which is anything but literal and ultimately more luxurious than usual, gives pride of place to (very) beautiful materials.
“
In previous collections, I set out to deconstruct the Ferragamo codes a little
,” he continues.
This time, it seemed wise to return to the spirit of home.
» And to restore the aura of this emblem of chic alla Fiorentina.
Ferragamo's fall-winter 2024-25 shows Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
It's raining (again) in Milan.
Traffic is jammed.
There is a demonstration for the ceasefire in Gaza in the center of the Lombard city.
At
Jil Sander's
, we've been waiting for an hour.
It seems that Mariacarla Boscono, a 43-year-old Italian top model, is stuck in traffic jams.
Finally, we forget everything when the brunette appears at the opening of the show, in a blood-red pantsuit with round shoulders.
Huge unstructured speakers arranged in the center play live and in Dolby Surround the music of the young American Mk.gee.
The lime green podium contrasts with this beautifully crafted experimental neo-bourgeois wardrobe, ranging from azure blue to candy pink, from dark burgundy to raven black.
Opera capes draped over the shoulders are oversized.
On their heads, the girls put on felt caps and wore long-haired shoes.
Fragile mohair guipure skirts pass by warmed by chunky sweaters and construction shoes, ladies' suits with covered buttons, belted coats in vinyl leather.
From the first to the 68th look, Lucie and Luke Meier, the couple at the head of the collections of the most Italian of German labels since 2017, master their part.
Backstage, they explain: “
The idea of this locker room was above all to feel surrounded, enveloped.
Obviously, by the comfort, the shape and textures of the clothes, but also by the location of the show, the music.
We started thinking about this notion of protection, not in reaction to anything in particular, but because we liked the gesture.
Then we used it throughout the design of the parade.
" Well done !
Jil Sander’s fall-winter 2024-25 shows photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Goru