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Fashion shows: Miss Dior, a woman of her time

2024-02-27T18:23:31.536Z

Highlights: Maria Grazia Chiuri presented her first ready-to-wear collection at Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday. The Italian designer has been working in the house of the avenue Montaigne since 2012. The collection was inspired by Marc Bohan and Niki de Saint Phalle. Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, the 28-year-old Belgian talent to follow, was the face of the show. The show was attended by Bernard Arnault, who immortalized a few models with his phone.


For next winter, Maria Grazia Chiuri updates the beginnings of the house's ready-to-wear, through a modern, refined silhouette and a sensuality that we didn't know about.


More than ready-to-wear, it will be “ready-to-go”.

Our prices will range from 300 francs to 700 francs and the alteration of the hem will be free

 ,” confided in Le Figaro of September 18, 1967, Jacqueline Bourgeois, the director of the new Miss Dior boutique.

“ 

Thus, after Cardin and Saint Laurent, here is the third newborn, whose exact baptismal name is: “Miss Dior ready to wear Christian Dior””

, continues the article.

“ 

I wanted to do something practical and casual

 ,” explains Philippe Guibourgé, faithful right-hand man of Marc Bohan, the Dior couturier at the time.

The end of the sixties, the launch of ready-to-wear, the emancipation of youth, this is what inspired Maria Grazia Chiuri, for winter 2024-2025.

“ 

It’s a fundamental period in the history of fashion, the moment when couturiers realized that they had to take to the streets,” she explains the day before her show which took place on Tuesday in the Tuileries gardens.

Marc Bohan was one of them.

I wanted to celebrate his vision.

 » The Italian confesses a particular link with this heritage: “ 

From my first visit to the archives, it was with her work that I felt the greatest connection.

What touches me?

Marc Bohan invented this slim look for this new generation of women who had a freer relationship with the body than their elders... At that time, I was only 5 years old but I remember very clearly this moment when fashion became accessible.

 »

“MGC” has already paid tribute to the designer (who died last September) in its summer 2018 collection inspired by his link with Niki de Saint Phalle.

This time, no Nanas but around ten sculptures - a sort of rattan cage doll, called

Of Bodies, Armor and Cages

by Indian artist Shakuntala Kulkarni.

And then the voice of Jane Birkin, whispering

Je t'aime moi non plus

, a cult song recorded by Bardot in 1967, contemporary with the first Dior ready-to-wear... Beyond the scenography and the slew of celebrities (Jennifer Lawrence, Rosalia, Jisoo from Blackpink…), it is the new purity, more sensual and embodied than usual of this Dior girl which captivates the eye.

An almost minimalist bourgeois woman, with a banana bun and square-heeled shoes, wide-open blouse over a gold necklace, in a beige trench coat printed with a “Miss Dior” created in 1970 by textile designer Alexandre Sache.

The tweed wrap miniskirt suits, the frock coats in white worsted wool matched with a skirt slit on both sides, the sets in faded denim and long monogram silk blouse go to the essentials.

Bernard Arnault, in the front row, immortalizes a few models with his phone - a bolero with tassels and pearls on a white turtleneck, a skirt with rhinestone fringes, a sheath with American armholes... Chiuri has been working in the house of the avenue Montaigne, and she proves that she knows how to renew her message, reactivate desire around clothing and (almost) do without a logo.

Well done !

VG

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, the young Belgian talent to follow

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt

ALESSANDRO GAROFALO



Twenty-four hours before the Dior blockbuster at the Tuileries, young shoot

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt

opened the Paris fashion shows.

It’s this great gap in style and power that has been the hallmark of this Fashion Week for half a century!

And if the house on Avenue Montaigne is French right down to the designer bag, the 28-year-old from Brussels (graduate of the École de La Cambre) is not half Belgian.

Like Martin Margiela in his time, she loves the conceptual and real clothes.

Hence this winter collection (presented in the former Kookaï store on rue de Rennes, just pimped out with a purple carpet) inspired by “ 

the skirt, the skirt, the skirt, the skirt

 ”, etc.

She takes this archetype of the feminine wardrobe and makes coats, jackets, bustiers and... skirts, which, depending on the cutouts, buttons and drapes, can be transformed and worn as a coat, a jacket, in a bustier and… skirt.

The silhouette is very elongated, like a teenager who has pulled on her sleeves ("

 I don't like people to see my hands and I like to transpose myself into the clothes I create

 ").

Shows ample fronts, with oversized proportions, and reveals more structured backs.

Mix the very ladylike V-neck and a large jacket taken from a man's wardrobe.

Mix houndstooth and plaid, chenille knit and technical taffeta, red and black, brown and burgundy... We're talking about fashion, of course, but above all about a wardrobe that grows over time. seasons, pieces that we still want to wear six months or two years later.

As for the 1980s vibe, does it come from…?

 Vinted!”

For me, it's the best image bank!

I love how people take photos of a skirt on a hanger so it looks like a dress.

There are also many of these polyester blouses with a lavaliere from the period, which we have here, worked in a jacquard of thermoreactive viscose yarn which hardens the mesh.

It looks like a blur but it's almost tailored like a suit. 

» Her favorite model for two seasons, the Swede Sylke Golding (57), wears her silver hair in a bob, which suits her turtleneck, cardigan and checked wool skirt ensemble, as well as her second look, a bustier in more radical black leather that goes down to the knees worn with chic thigh-high boots.

“ 

It interests me to see clothes on people of my generation or older women whose experiences we can feel.

But I like to reveal their character in everyone.

 »

H.G.

Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2024-02-27

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