At
Courrèges
, everything starts with a simple gesture.
“
In the current context, I believe that what we want most is to be in someone's arms, to be surrounded
,” explains Nicolas di Felice, the artistic director, at the end of his show yesterday at the Carreau du temple.
With this idea in mind, the first thing I did was wrap a piece of silk around the neck, like a caress
.”
From this “
ascending, because there are so many things that pull us down
” drape, he creates an austere wardrobe but also sexy, even sensual.
Courrèges fall-winter 2024 fashion shows.
Courrèges
A series of rigid trench coats with collars reaching up to the top of the nose opened the show with a heartbeat (to the rhythm of the show's soundtrack).
On many silhouettes, a single central pocket at the lower abdomen gives a “special” posture to girls.
“
I love the support that pockets give in general
.
They are part of the Courrèges codes.
This time, I only kept one, located on the most intimate place of the body
.”
Seventies
skirt-over-trouser suits
, flared jumpsuits, fur shawl collar perfs give way to dresses whose hem mirrors the neckline and armhole and jumpsuits with double straps in stretch veil which leave nothing not much to the mystery.
Again...
VG
On the floor of the former C&A store on Boulevard Haussmann, Catherine Deneuve, who cites
Dries Van Noten
as her favorite contemporary designer, vapes and watches as a connoisseur this winter 2025 called “The woman who dares to cut her own bangs” (see the hairpiece that hides the models' eyes).
“
For me it’s synonymous with audacity,”
said the Antwerp native backstage.
She is a woman who takes the time to do things for herself, a tender and strong woman, who loves and wants to be loved, who decides for herself what she wants to wear
."
Or the opposite of today's celebrities who entrust the choice of their outfit to stylists seeking buzz before good taste.
The song of birds in the background, the voice of Sade which bursts out at times, this woman who illuminates with her pastel or saturated colors, the bare plaster of the places under construction.
It combines sweatshirts and flannel jackets embroidered on the collarbone with an outgrowth of pink crystals.
Dries Van Noten fall-winter 2024 shows.
DVN
An acid yellow viscose tube top is worn over a school notebook checkered shirt as if the bust were compressed, and worn with a black wool skirt with a floating back panel, she seems to have mixed a fabric from the Saint Pierre market , fabrics from Antwerp, American fleece, English punk chic jewelry chains, collars falling down the back with French couture.
The shoulders of the jacket are narrowed at the front, the pants, elasticated at the ankles, seem to be cut from dusty green pilou.
The ladies' bags have a vintage feel and snappy clasps, the pumps have offbeat bobbin heels.
There is an attitude and spontaneity in this woman seen nowhere.
No doubt because Van Noten refuses to calibrate the silhouette.
“
Above all, we pay attention to the quality of our products, the colors and their intensity by playing on long yarns, short fibers, traditional fabrics and recycled polyester.
» After the show, we decide to cross the street to go to Galeries Lafayette, where the Belgian opened the spring-summer collection last Friday.
Sublime and wearable even when you don't have your bangs cut.