Crazy rumors are circulating about the
Givenchy house.
Since Matthew Williams was landed last December, everyone has been wondering who will take over from him at the head of the women's and men's collections.
Especially since with the boom of the three locomotives of the LVMH Fashion Group (Celine, Loewe and now Fendi), the expectations around the house of Hubert de Givenchy are high.
The group is said to be looking for a star artistic director.
A few names are floating around: Sarah Burton (ex-Alexander McQueen), Alessandro Michele (ex-Gucci) and even, why not, a return of Marc Jacobs.
While waiting for the big announcement, we have to fill the stores.
It is therefore the creation studio - without a captain - which does the job.
The star print of this season is the cat, Hubert de Givenchy's favorite animal, we are told (already from the men's collection presented last January).
Remarkable when silver sequin embroidery takes up the motif on a dress (with a questionable bow neckline, however).
Weird on a bustier with a rigid cowl neckline as it looks like her diamond-colored eyes are staring at you.
There are some good basics, a discreet businesswoman's herringbone suit and a few black cocktail dresses for starlets dreaming of themselves as Holly Golightly in
Breakfast at Tiffany's
.
Isabel Marant fall-winter 2024-2025 show.
GEOFFROY VAN DER HASSELT / AFP
“
We had fun revisiting my best years ,” explains
Isabel Marant
with a big smile
, a few minutes before her winter 2025 show. “We” are Kim Bekker, the artistic director of the collections, and Emmanuelle Alt, the The former fashion director of
Vogue Paris
, with whom, in the 2000s, Marant invented this Parisienne “
with dog
”, she says of her legendary banter.
“
Emmanuelle and I have the same age, the same childhood, the same culture and the same references.
It's super pleasant and easy to work with her because we both know who this woman is
.
» Or, for next winter, a tall, slim girl, beautiful as the day, in her eighties skin jacket over a draped ethnic print dress, open over leopard tights and gaucho boots with small heels.
She's not afraid of anything, especially not stacking layers of clothes, clashing prints and accumulating jewelry brought back from all her travels.
Sure of her effortless
chic ,
as the Americans say, of this little indefinable “je ne sais quoi” but which the two brunettes (still) embody wonderfully.
Issey Miyake fall-winter 2024-2025 showHélène de Turckheim MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP
Did you know ?
“
Issey Miyake
, it was we who first discovered him in France, two years ago, during a short visit to Paris
”, wrote on April 2, 1974 the fashion editor of Le
Figaro
at the time, Hélène de Turckheim .
Indeed, as early as 1972, she proclaimed: “
Kenzo had better watch out
.”
(…) Issey Miyake – remember this name – today wants to conquer Paris.
With a good chance of succeeding.
» History (of fashion) therefore proved him right.
It's been more than fifty years since the innovative, atypical and comfortable collections of the Japanese brand (designed by Satoshi Kondo since 2019) have conquered the capital (and the rest of the world).
This season will be no exception.
Surrounded by the Art Deco frescoes of the Palais de la Porte Dorée, to experimental classical music played live by the pianist Koki Nakano, this ultimately minimally pleated wardrobe (yet its trademark) gives pride of place to ample shapes and draped layers. evoking the Bedouins, with raw cotton and cozy wool.
In a remarkable color palette, golden yellow, south sea blue or cerulean, fuchsia pink, sea green, tangerine or bishop mauve.