It's growing, in the ranks of journalists who came to hear the almost divine words of Jonathan Anderson at the entrance to the backstage area, after the
Loewe
show .
So much so that we end up giving up on hearing him speak.
It is true that the artistic director, one of the most exciting of this Fashion Week, is generating excitement, but what a shame, in such a chic house (belonging to LVMH) to generate, deliberately or through lack of organization, this unnecessary stress!
Fortunately, we also received by email some of his words which shed light on his winter collection, which is always very referenced.
“Does it make sense to talk about origin and even social class these days?
(…) Are the attributes of the aristocracy – the Chippendale chair, a landscape painting on the wall, the Eton “morning suit” – modern or obsolete?
»
As a Northern Irishman, Anderson has always been quite obsessed with the “castes” of English society, and has already in the past subverted its classics and its codes not without irony.
It is therefore these external signs of upper class (floral tapestry of British interiors, portrait of the beloved bulldog, coat with tails called "morning suit" worn by Eton students, etc.) which give the inspiration of the season.
As well as the predominantly green, small-format landscapes of the American painter Albert York, around fifteen of whose paintings are exhibited on an art gallery-style scenography (the show, as on previous occasions, takes place in a tent set up in the middle of the courtyard of the Château de Vincennes).
Loewe fall-winter 2024-2025 show.
PASCAL LE SEGRETAIN/Getty Images via AFP.
Bouquets of flowers therefore print the belted vestal dresses;
radishes, a long skirt worn with said jackets whose long pointed basques sweep the ground.
Tops with polo collars in large loop knits are combined with jodhpurs with exaggerated volume at the thigh level.
Small cotton short sets of men's tracksuits meet trench coat-colored leather coats, button-down bombers and (faux?) fur fleece jackets.
The bucolic scenes (a bird on a tree) are recreated in caviar bead embroidery on a sweater and straight pants - a technique used on biker boots beaded with flowerbeds or on a Flamenco bag with the image of the short-legged hound.
“This collection is probably one of our most intense in terms of craftsmanship,”
Anderson always confirms by email.
But I like the way virtuosity is not emphasized.
Like this coat with a carved wooden collar that cannot be seen from afar
...
"
It is this creative intention coupled with this "craft for oneself" (which does not seek demonstration but awakens curiosity and emotion to the touch) which makes Loewe salt.
Rabanne fall-winter 2024-2025 fashion show.
Rabanne
It's one of those mornings when you keep your plaid pajama pants on, put on a plaid shirt, a mohair cardigan and a guy's jacket to go get the bread.
And when you see your reflection, in this spontaneous mix & match outfit, you tell yourself that you're pretty cool... Like Julia Nobis, the model who opens the show at
Rabanne
, dressed like this (but without the bag of croissants in her hand) .
This season, Julien Dossena has imagined easy but desirable clothes (a sage green pie shovel collar shirt, caramel velvet pants, an oversized herringbone jacket, a red vest with metal buttons) and more extravagant pieces, with accents sometimes folkloric, but comfortable (short tunic in metal diamonds, dress tied in front in fringed scarf, bohemian skirt in metallic blue
mesh
, sweatshirt in leopard faux fur).
Some silhouettes are a little complicated, others reproducible by girls who have a taste for styling (tights punctuated with snap buttons immediately give a creative twist).
But, in the end, we really like the spirit of this girl in a leather jacket with a two-tone collar from which protrudes a faux snake jacket worthy of that of Nicolas Cage in Sailor
and Lula
(David Lynch, 1990).
This falsely random mixture of patterns and materials classifies the brand of Paco Rabanne (who has lost his first name) alongside Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton (it is not for nothing that Julien Dossena worked for a long time with Nicolas Ghesquière) or again from Marc Jacobs in the 2000s. And it's terribly inspiring.
Schiaparelli fall-winter 2024-2025 fashion show.
Schiaparelli.
How did Daniel Roseberry come across
American Love
by Rose Laurens, which rocked the French on FM in the 1980s?
Perhaps through a compilation of LGBTQ+ hits whose singer is an “icon” like Janet Jackson, who is also on the soundtrack of this
Schiaparelli
fashion show on Thursday evening, Place Vendôme.
If the Texan designer had not convinced us last season with his somewhat dated ready-to-wear show, this time, he is not going with the back of the spoon, loud music and girls walking energetically, this which does a lot of good to his locker room.
We find his very beautiful loose suits with “Schiap” details (golden buttons, martingale chains in the back, blond hair braid tie).
But also sex appeal in the satin black jeans (subtly) topstitched in a thong style on the top of the buttocks.
And from the 1980s in his bleached denim suits, his short jackets in cracked leather like paper (and lined with shearling) and his mohair vests with streamlined shoulders.
If you don't like the evening (skeleton sheaths, draped dress), the very American fun, in this very Parisian place, works very well.