This high-Alpine massif neighboring the Vercors extends its 186 km2 of authenticity with an unusual mineral character.
Its tormented reliefs touch the hearts of many mountain dwellers, the most famous, René Desmaison spoke of it as “
an island in the sky
” before choosing it as his final resting place.
Here, several thousand years ago, glaciers perforated the limestone mountains, creating graphic geological features made up of arches, caves and numerous cavities called “chourums”.
Dominated by the Obiou, the massif is home to less than 1000 inhabitants per year, scattered in 30 small villages and hamlets.
A rural life 2.5 hours from Lyon and Marseille, where sheep are king.
The ski destination was long summed up by its 14-story residence in Bois d'Arouze built in 1967 by the architect father of the Maison de la radio in Paris at the foot of the Superdévoluy slopes.
Certainly, it is challenging, but at a time of energy and accessibility challenges, it ultimately gives food for thought!
In any case, going beyond ensures you find a resolutely mountainous territory of wild beauty.
On Tracks
“
Here, the conditions that we encounter at an altitude of 2000 meters are equivalent to 3000 meters elsewhere
.”
Mawki - stock.adobe.com
“
Here, the conditions that we encounter at an altitude of 2000 meters are equivalent to 3000 meters elsewhere
” explains Yannick Godel, the manager of the 53 slopes in the ski area which connects Superdévoluy and La Joue du Loup, each on a slope of Pierra.
Shaped like a horseshoe, mineral and windy, the place indeed offers a very mountainous and visually explosive atmosphere.
On these slopes, there are sheep in summer and the groomers are farmers, fine experts in the sector.
Of the 22 ski lifts, the fifteen ski lifts ensure skiing even on windy days.
Beautiful, rolling blue runs allow intermediate skiers to slide practically from the top.
The last stage to reach the summit overlooks the “Black Ram” sector, which is ungroomed and whose slope reaches 60% in places.
Concretely, the selection is already being made on the Pierra ski lift!
The nerve center of the area and perfectly visible from the Viaipi restaurant, the vast snowpark unfurls its evolving modules and its 3 new airbags to ensure soft landings on enormous inflated mattresses.
“
Open to all levels, this offer appeals to many, and not just teenagers!
» assures Yannick.
Going down, you choose your slope: the beautiful red of the Fontettes will warm the thighs of good skiers who want it up to the foot of the Joue du Loup, while no less than six blue slopes lead to the Superdévoluy snowfield, with a detour by the red or black ones served by the Clos des Martins ski lift, ideal for powder days.
The beginner areas are large and perfectly equipped, particularly on the Superdévoluy snow front with a 125 meter long automatic carpet running 100% on solar energy.
Le Dvoluy ski area;
adult day package at €42.
On horseback
Crossing a field of powder facing the iconic Pic de Bure offers a moment of fulfillment and great freedom.
Marion Carcel-Foehn
On the back of one of the endearing mounts of Élodie Chaillol, instructor and owner of the Superdévoluy equestrian center, you have the immediate feeling that you are going on an adventure.
The snow crunches under the hooves, the smoke comes out of the nostrils and the peaks reveal their grandeur between the pines: on horseback, everything is even more beautiful!
Depending on the level of the riders, the rides are done at a leisurely pace while chatting for beginners or more quickly with trotting or galloping sessions.
Be sure: crossing a field of powder facing the iconic Pic de Bure offers a moment of fulfillment and great freedom.
Walk from €24, by reservation.
Superdvoluy equestrian center.
Such.
: 06 72 38 18 27.
Ski touring
Ski mountaineering trip: the heroic crossing.
OT Le Devoluy
Seal skins and crampons are the best tools for admiring this unique limestone kingdom.
The heroic crossing is a ski mountaineering race of 600 m in altitude, a “
local geological curiosity
” as guide François Chaix likes to say.
It offers the opportunity to explore this kingdom of stones and cross one of these spectacular Chourums, deep marks left by glacier water on the mountain.
Following a valley located under the cables of the Pic de Bure cable car, we then climb the snow-covered scree to the foot of a vertical wall.
There, an indentation allows you to arrive under a mineral arch forming like two immense eyes.
The spectacle is striking.
Once the summit of Corne is reached, the panorama can be enjoyed, as is the descent, on skis.
Guide day commitment €330;
vegapassion.com.
Where do we sleep?
La Neyrette***
At the exit of a bend on the splendid road to Saint Disdier, this hotel without neighbors is a most pleasant stopover.
Family history has led Laurent Muzard behind the stove and now at the head of this old mill which has become a hotel for 3 generations.
The bucolic atmosphere of the place, the very beautiful wellness area and the food perceived as the best in the massif, more than compensate for the slightly aging rooms.
The site offers a beautiful view of the Faraut mountain and Mère Église, a Romanesque chapel classified as a historic monument dating from the 11th century, and is an ideal base camp for exploring the entire massif.
Don't miss the chef's specialty: trout, raised in the large pond adjoining the hotel, at the foot of century-old apple trees.
And also benefit from the expert hands of Sophie or Ambre, the masseuses specifically trained in Bali.
Night with breakfast and access to the spa: €153 for 2 people.
23 route des Gillardes St Disdier, 05250 Le Dévoluy.
Such.
: 04 92 58 81 17.
Two gourmet tables
WHERE TO LUNCH
L’Establou.
In the Bois d'Arouze residence, located at the foot of the Superdévoluy slopes, smiles are there, in all simplicity.
We opt for the delicious lamb chops from “Pascal”, very local.
Dish of the day at €14 - Galerie Bois d’Aurouze, Superdévoluy.
Such.
: 04 92 58 85 76.
WHERE TO DINNER
Friends.
For refined cuisine that highlights beautiful local products.
The meats and their sauces are particularly well prepared.
Esp.
des Bergers - Tel.
: 09 83 79 12 81.
AND ALSO - What to do in the mountains when you don't like skiing?
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