“
Miu Miu
is the only brand whose logo we still want to wear!”
, our neighbor tells us from the first look of the Miuccia Prada fashion show, yesterday afternoon, at the Palais d'Iéna.
A brunette with short hair comes forward.
A quick comb, very little makeup, but sublime.
She is dressed in a white shirt, from the collar there is a row of pearls;
straight trousers and a brown woolen cloth frock coat, gloves and a lady's bag tucked under one arm.
At first glance, no logo.
It's actually tone-on-tone on the back of his coat.
Followed by little wool schoolgirl jackets, men's pants with pleats, chic suits, cute bubble skirts with large flowers twisted with helium-inflated hunting jackets, wide fleeces and oversized ski jackets.
Grandma's furs (in shearling) warm up (falsely) wrinkled cocktail dresses.
The shirt and skirt sets in merino bonded to cotton and in fluorescent boiled wool catch our eye.
Tight jeans (is this the return of slim?) and suede jackets embroidered with silver flowers collide with perfect little black dresses very Audrey Hepburn by Hubert de Givenchy, offset by mechanic's gloves (with a crocodile effect all the way even !).
Miu Miu MONIC fall-winter 2024-2025 collection
At Miu Miu, it is more often a question of attitude than of an external brand sign.
Those who wear it of course want it to be seen, but discreetly - in the weave of the fabric.
Miu Miu girls are a club, a cool girls club.
And maybe even a community of women.
This wardrobe for next winter is more mature, focusing less on stylistic gimmicks and products to consume straight away.
Miuccia Prada speaks of a “
sartorial vocabulary from childhood to adulthood
”.
The fact remains that it is embodied by personalities more than by models.
Among the catwalk stars Gigi Hadid and Loli Bahia were the actresses Kristin Scott Thomas and Angela Molina, the singers Ethel Cain and Little Simz as well as the doctor Qin Huilan, “
a 70-year-old lady from China, Shanghai, who likes to wear Miu Miu and Prada
”, as she defines herself on her Instagram account.
When at the end of the show a question is asked about this eclectic cast, Miuccia Prada responds, true to her character: “
They're just people.
»
Ms
Carven
, who died in 2015 aged 105, was a major figure in post-war couture – legend has it that she turned to fashion after studying architecture because she couldn't find anything to dress her little 1.55m tall.
Louise Trotter, the artistic director of the house that bears her name, cites neither her heritage nor the archives except through the new logo which revisits the 1945 label. But she awakens the soul of this woman's house for women .
His second collection thus shows the relevance of Carven today.
Because despite the plethora of clothes in the boutiques and on the Fashion Week catwalks, too many customers are still looking for pretty, creative and wearable pieces, precious without pretension, becoming but with extra soul.
Even more than a locker room, it's a look that the Briton showed off last Saturday, in a building under construction on Avenue Marceau.
“
A space between the daytime wardrobe and the evening, between the dressed and the undressed, this relationship to the intimate through protective materials, not like armor, but to give self-confidence
,” says Trotter in behind the scenes.
I deeply believe that a woman never looks better than when she feels comfortable in an outfit.
» A notion of comfort that goes beyond the lazy one of a tracksuit even if we find here the ease of sportswear.
We're talking about the comforting chic of a loose car coat allowing the draped collar of a shirt and the hem of a straight skirt in technical taffeta to peek through.
Flannel peplum jackets go down to the knees, a strapless dress is cut from pleated wool, quilted blouses seem to be tilted forward.
Natural girls appropriate evening codes (opera gloves, mother-of-pearl earrings, tangled pearl necklaces, a clutch clutched to you like a pillow) with an obviousness and an ease that we their desire.
Carven Fall-Winter 2024-25 Collection Carven
A dress.
Imagine that your coat (or jacket, sweater, shirt, etc.) is modeled on a dress.
What a time saver to put on and it would be pleasant to wear.
“
Fashion is armor to survive everyday life
,” said Bill Cunningham, cult American photographer.
A quote that Chitose Abe, the Japanese designer from Sacai
, takes up
for this winter 2025 fashion show which takes place at Les Invalides on Monday afternoon.
Thanks to the hybridizations that have made her signature, she transforms an officer's peacoat, trench coat, shirt with a small collar, multicolored loose-knit knits, and faux fur, into magnificent dresses with tulip volume.
Add to that a pair of “
thigh boots
” and you are ready to face everyday life.
Sacai HIROKAZU OHARA fall-winter 2024-25 collection