The rumor was circulating among the Fashion Week caravan but until yesterday, no communication announced this Saint Laurent men's show at 9 p.m. on the evening of March, two hours after the last official show of Paris Fashion Week , that of Louis Vuitton.
Around a hundred guests received the small burgundy satin pouch decorated with golden cassandre (the cult YSL logo) inviting them to this intimate show in the presence of Betty Catroux, Augustin Trapenard, Thomas Bangalter, Gaspar Noé and François-Henri Pinault ... who "lent" for the occasion the Bourse de Commerce currently in the process of setting up the next exhibition of the family's contemporary art collections.
In the rotunda of the building, an instrumental version of
In the air tonight
by Phil Collins sounds.
A first boy comes forward.
With his very seventies
low-breasted double-breasted suit
, his impeccably combed hair and his glasses on his nose, he looks exactly like the young Yves Saint Laurent.
Like the following models, also in suits, sometimes striped, sometimes light gray, with satin lapels (a tuxedo), worn over a tone-on-tone shirt and tie, slipped under belted overcoats... A parade of suits and long coats, deadly boring, do you think?
No way.
With its strict build and its sublime drape (because worked like a blur, therefore almost without structure), its slightly nipped waist, its generous lapels and its pants breaking on the shoe, this Saint Laurent suit for next winter is simply perfect , the kind that we would like to see more often, on the catwalks and on our contemporaries... A thousand miles from the heat-sealed version "small cuff / pants too tight / floor fire" which invaded red carpets, TV sets and finally , the streets and law firms in recent years.
Saint Laurent men's fall-winter 2024 show Alessandro Lucioni
“
I wanted a more masculine, more formal collection, as opposed to previous seasons which were transparent, undressed,”
says Anthony Vaccarello, the behind-the-scenes artistic director who a week earlier, presented “his wife” of winter 2025, almost naked under her nylon stocking blouses.
Man, it’s ultimately a very formatted locker room.
I wanted to play on these archetypes and this fantasy of the man who goes to work, while having fun with proportions.
The tie is a little wider, the jacket a little longer, the pants too, the shoes a little too square...
"
Saint Laurent men's fall-winter 2024 show Alessandro Lucioni
Behind the homage to Mr. Saint Laurent (the glasses, therefore, but also the rubber peacoats or these leather caps evoking his 1962 collection), two other male figures cross this wardrobe: the legendary yuppie Patrick Bateman, from
American Psycho
, serial killer in a striped double-breasted suit, and Richard Gere, inimitable in
American Gigolo
in an Armani suit.
Because there is a lot of the maestro in these last passages, this tailoring with only an epaulet for structure, available in powdery colors, faded pink, pale green, a sublime camel... “
They are made of georgette lined with silk, a feminine material, which we see more often for blouses or pajamas.
» Proof that we can still reinvent something as seen and reviewed as a costume.
And that there is no need for fireworks or men in dresses to make a men's parade exciting.