“
I have been writing poetry for over a year.
I am not a poet, but I wanted to share my words with the help of the writer Michelle Freya to accompany this particularly romantic and poetic collection, entirely handmade,
” the Irishwoman tells us backstage Róisín Pierce, finalist for the LVMH 2022 prize, whose total black look contrasts with her artistic universe made of ivory white lace and embroidery.
The silhouettes float and hypnotize at the Irish Embassy (Paris 8th), a place which is not a random choice, for this graduate of the National College of Art and Design in Dublin... Who is looking this season again on the rich textile know-how of his country (renowned for its Clones lace, emblematic of the great famine, in the mid-19th century).
To the voice of Björk, “
the adorable girl who fell from her star
”, which titles the collection, appears covered in organza veils, Irish guipures (a crochet lace technique with voluminous patterns connected by fine threads), and twisted florets.
Characters worthy of an Emily Brontë book.
Róisín Pierce IK ALDAMA
The Uma Wang fashion show invites us to fall asleep with these silhouettes camouflaged with cushions, which would almost act as an airbag if we were to fall to the ground.
Listed on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar since 2017, Uma Wang is once again showing in the American Cathedral of Paris with its neo-Gothic architect (16th).
“
This collection represents my deepest memories
,” says the Chinese designer once the show is over.
The cushions refer to dreams, which are the most authentic form of memory and the pillow, the tangible tool of this ephemeral process.
I want to remember moments that are not necessarily from the very ancient past, but also from my present, and visually depict them through shapes, lines and colors.
»
Uma Wang Valerio Mezzanotti
To violin notes, the models move in slow steps wearing hybrid socks that seem particularly comfortable.
A wool cape coat deprives the arms of the exterior, while bottomless pockets leave the hands exposed.
Layers of materials wrap bodies and movements warm.
“
For winter, I like to use wool, especially cashmere, and of course silk... printed or dyed!
It's like my final signature on a garment.
»
Uma Wang Valerio Mezzanotti
Between the French gilding of the Mona Bismarck hotel (Paris 16th, which bears the name of Cristóbal Balenciaga's muse), place the fashion show of Rok Hwang, Korean founder of the Rokh label.
Here, trench coats transform into skirts and scarves into capes.
The collection is made of lace, shearling, knotted sweaters, distressed jeans and prints borrowed from the High Renaissance and Romanticism.
With this collection, the Korean proves his taste for color (he who tended to prefer discreet shades of gray), with a dark turquoise and a bright red on a leather look.
Rokh Luca Tombolini/ Rokh
At the Palais de Tokyo, guests look like dolls in the puffy dresses of Dane Cecilie Bahnsen.
In the center of the room, a giant apple created by Danish artist Casper Sejersen.
“
In my work, I like to photograph simple things, because the viewer can then associate their own story with the objects instead of having a too clear description.
There is a beauty in simplicity
,” writes the scenographer in the notes to the collection, entitled The Bite.
“
The idea of the bite is to leave a little innocence behind, which, in a way, seemed very relevant to me for this season
,” explains Cecilie Bahnsen.
In the hands of the models, whole or bitten apples.
On their backs, dresses stitched with flowers, hooded trench coats and shiny leather perfectos.
Cecilie Bahnsen Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
On the stairs of the Théâtre du Châtelet, crowded with people, the steps are slow.
The crowd eventually reaches the large Italian-style room, before it advances onto the stage lit by projectors where the dancers according to Alain Paul will lead the dance.
Last September, this veteran of the Demna studios at Balenciaga and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton presented his first fashion show in the same place, same time.
“
I imagined the collection as a continuation of the first, where the pieces work together with the ambition of slower fashion, without breaks between each season,”
he explains backstage.
AlainPaul AlainPaul
The classical dancer's uniform is deconstructed and becomes more contemporary, with openings in the back, a woolen belt, pieces in jersey, cupro, fleece and leotards with shoulder pads, before the show closes with a dress in white tutu covering the entire body (or almost).
“
I was very inspired by the piece Lamentation by the American choreographer Martha Graham, where she expresses what happens inside our bodies — in our stomach, our belly, our heart — when we go through difficult times. difficult.
She is wearing a large sheet with which she created shapes, where we can make out the body.
I wanted us to guess a piece of clothing.
»