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Hanabi
At the Hana Hotel.
17, rue du Quatre-Septembre (2nd).
Tel.:
01 87 89 61 98.
Opening hours:
Daily except Sun and Mon.
Metro:
Quatre-Septembre.
To discover
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Where are the kitchens of big hotels going, whether charming or palace?
For the most part, less and less in a hurry to run to the stars and bring out from their bells some sacred monsters where the very gastronomic had perhaps ended up lost in the orbits of astronomical additions.
It's not always easy to follow them in these culinary transfer markets where we stick chefs to the kitchen like football players to Panini albums.
Here a few headliners chosen for the sole merit of being starlets (Jean Imbert at the Plaza Athénée, Norbert Tarayre at the Prince de Galles), further a few “Top Chef” jurors skilled at autographing some elite brasserie cards (Pairet at the Crillon, Le Quellec at Madame Rêve).
Surprising week where at the same time as we learned of the farewell to the Bristol of the great Éric Frechon (twenty-five years of house, fifteen 3 stars), this
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