Since 2019, high-protein desserts have found a place of choice in the yogurt aisle.
Danone was the pioneer in the segment with HiPro, its brand launched in the United States in 2015 then imported to France.
Nestlé then launched with Lindahls before the latest addition, Arla, a Danish company.
The promise ?
A high protein content to help athletes in their daily diet.
Like other yogurts, they come in all flavors: chocolate, coffee, vanilla, red fruits, lemon, coconut, caramel... and all shapes: dessert creams, mousses, drinking yogurts and bottles.
John, a 31-year-old sportsman and fan of these desserts, says he uses the products sold on the shelves to
“help with recovery after each sports session”
.
He attests to having
“started buying them more than two years ago now”,
and since then has not wanted to stop.
He consumes them
“at least five times a week, if not more because their protein content is higher than in classic yogurt,”
he says.
The sportsman adds: “
it’s practical, you can even consume it when you’re not at home with the bottles to take away”
.
Like young people in their thirties, many French people, concerned about their figure, are succumbing to the trend of high-protein yogurts to maintain a healthy diet adapted to their sporting activities.
One in ten French people consume it
A sign that this ultra-fresh segment is a hit, the references are multiplying.
On the shelves, it is now difficult to miss: the black and hard packaging allows them to stand out from other yogurts.
These packaging are undeniably reminiscent of those of the famous whey sachets and protein bars sold in stores specializing in fitness.
And the figures, communicated by NielsenIQ, speak for themselves.
In two years, the sector's turnover has doubled.
Yannis Chemlal, consultant to the panelist, notes in this regard a 40% increase in sales value between each year.
As a result of this growth, and inflation, the average price of these references is constantly increasing on the shelves.
From 5.91 euros in 2021, the price per kilo increased to 8.09 euros last year.
As for the average unit price, it is now around 2.30 euros compared to 1.61 euros two years ago.
But this increase does not seem to discourage buyers, since today one in ten French people consume it.
In 2023, more than 10,600,000 kilos of these yogurts have been sold, enough to give ideas to distributors.
From April, Carrefour will even launch its own protein desserts via its distributor brand.
All of these indicators are enough to reassure manufacturers in their development strategies.
“Specific manufacturing process”
But before ending up in the shopping cart, these yogurts follow a rigorous manufacturing process.
Cécile Lorenzo, research and innovation director at Danone France, insists on the fact that
“the industrial know-how mobilized and the strains of ferments used are different from those used for a classic yogurt”
.
Danone's protein range requires approximately 3 times more milk than its other marketed references and
"does not contain fat"
.
It is in fact made with skimmed milk and
“the only sugars present are the sugars naturally present in milk.
There are no added sugars,”
adds the manager.
HiPro yogurts are manufactured in the Pays de Bray factory, in Seine-Maritime.
JB-GAUTIER
The process lasts several hours at the Pays de Bray factory.
“After fermentation with a specific mix of ferments, the curds are separated from the whey.
It is this specific manufacturing process which gives its unique consistent texture and which results in its particularly protein-rich composition”
notes Cécile Lorenzo.
In comparison, for yogurt,
“the fermentation also lasts several hours but is carried out thanks to the combination of two ferments.
There are no other processes implemented
.
Once produced, HiPro can thus put forward the following arguments in store: 100% dairy protein, 15 to 25 grams of protein per portion depending on the product and 0% fat or low fat.
Nestlé claims a similar process in its factory in Lisieux, Calvados.
“They are made from local fermented skimmed milk enriched with protein by a separation process like a fresh cheese and also supplemented with whey proteins, essential for recovery after exercise” we are told at the service
in charge of these products.
But behind this fashion, what is really hidden on the nutritional level?
“It’s borderline less interesting than classic yogurts”
Coralie Costi, dietician in Paris, helps us decipher the labels of these yogurts.
The expert notices a first downside to their composition.
“We see thickening additives like processed corn starch and guar gum.”
But also
“sweeteners which give the sweet side with acesulfame considered dangerous because it is potentially carcinogenic and has effects on cholesterol.
There is also sucralose, a synthetic sweetener derived from sucrose, treated with chlorine which would have negative effects on the liver and kidneys
.
She sometimes notices
“aspartame, an additive considered dangerous presented as a neurotoxicant”
, to which sugar is added in certain cases.
Concerning their protein content, the specialist is just as skeptical.
“Brands highlight 15 to 25 grams of protein on the packaging depending on the product chosen”
.
To get your bearings, she advises looking at this rate per 100 grams and this time,
“we are around 8 to 10 grams of protein.
It's borderline less interesting than classic yogurts like petit-suisses and skyr
.
Regarding energy intake, Coralie concedes a
“reasonable caloric value with around 50 to 60 calories per 100 grams”
but deplores the large portions sold which
“encourage consumption for almost 100 calories”
.
The Parisian dietitian also criticizes the prices charged:
“it’s almost three times more expensive than classic yogurts.
The French do not necessarily have the means to spend this money, especially since if we follow the recommendations we must eat 2 to 3 dairy products per day
.
She points out that
“a list of ingredients that is too long is generally a bad sign and should alert the consumer”
.
However, it does not prohibit these products:
“for occasional consumption, they do not present health risks with an intake almost equivalent to eggs or fish”
.
However, she warns
“against regular consumption of these yogurts, especially if you have allergies”
and advises against it for children.
Finally, she recalls that
“the body does not store excess proteins since they do not go into the muscles.
The system uses the amount it needs and the rest goes to the kidneys
.
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