The 11 essentials of a trip to Nepal

There are many essentials on any trip to Nepal, starting with Kathmandu, the main gateway to the country that many travelers tend to skip, in the rush to reach the hiking routes.

But it is worth staying in the city for a while to stroll among its temples and

bahals

(Buddhist courtyards), try fantastic food and browse its bazaars.

For some, the adventure may begin on the outskirts of Kathmandu: circumambulating the Bodhnath stupa at sunset, in the company of a crowd of pilgrims, is a magical experience.

All between the sound of 1,000 prayer flags in the wind, the chants of the monks, the smell of incense and the setting sky.

Another essential experience is the Terai, a fascinating area and a crossroads between the immense population centers of the Indian plains and the cultures that emerged in the beautiful, sparsely populated and unforgiving Himalayas.

In this fertile landscape, the indigenous societies of the Terai and the fauna of Nepal survive, protected in several national parks.

The few visitors who explore the region from Kathmandu to Pokhara are lucky ones.

The Trishuli River offers whitewater rafting for the more adventurous, plus tranquil

resorts

, and the hill station of Bandipur, with its European vibe and Himalayan views.

And meanwhile, history buffs can enjoy the palaces and temples of the Gorkha district.

And best of all: incredible panoramic views of the Himalayas in almost every corner of the country: in Nepal you don't have to walk for weeks to have wonderful views.

Sometimes, as paradoxical as it may seem, the further away you are from the mountains, the better they are.

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1. Kathmandu, medieval wonder of Nepal

The capital of Nepal is a microcosm of South Asia: spiritual and commercial, familiar and unusual, frenetic and serene.

Kathmandu is a modern city built on a medieval plot of temples, stupas, sunken fountains and sanctuaries.

The alleys unexpectedly lead to centuries-old

bahals

, and the doors give way to

mandirs

(Hindu temples) with stepped roofs oblivious to the passage of time.

Although there are also air-conditioned shopping centers and modern hotels, its years of history continue to peek out here and there.

Atmosphere at Durbar Square in Kathmandu, capital of Nepal.Alamy Stock Photo

Many travelers rush through the capital on their way to the Everest, Annapurna, Langtang and Manaslu

trekking

routes , only stopping for the night at the beginning or end of their expedition.

But it is advisable to stay longer to explore not only the essential monuments of Durbar Square, Pashupatinath, Bodhnath and Swayambhunath, but also its alleys and secondary temples.

Most travelers choose the backpacker neighborhood of Thamel as their base camp.

In this tight tangle of alleys, mountaineers

and meditation students mingle with porters, guides, mystics,

trekking

agents and peddlers of all manner of wares, from flutes and brass-plated ceremonial symbols to faux North Face down jackets.

Thamel is probably the best place in the city to eat, drink, shop and sleep, with plenty of bars and live music venues, souvenir shops, hotels for all budgets—from teenage backpackers to septuagenarian mountaineers—and top restaurants. more varied.

Comforts that are appreciated, especially when you return after weeks traveling through the mountains of the country.

More information in the new Lonely Planet Nepal guide and at lonelyplanet.es.

But your stay in Kathmandu should not be limited to this tourist haven.

The soul of the capital is in the popular bazaars between Thamel and Durbar Square and in the peaceful

bahals

hidden throughout the city.

The soul of it all is Durbar Square, the medieval heart of Kathmandu, a tangle of courtyards, palaces and temples loaded with symbolism and ceremonial relevance.

Here the deified kings of Nepal were crowned and the affairs of the old kingdom were conducted;

Today the monarchy has disappeared, but the cult of its traditions continues.

Before being swallowed up by urban expansion, almost the entire city was reduced to this square, with the Hanuman Dhoka palace as its center.

The 2015 earthquake toppled buildings and cracked facades, but Nepalis have dedicated thousands of hours to restoring the splendor of their square.

The survival of Nepalese craft traditions allowed palaces to be restored and ruined temples to be rebuilt, and today the reconstructed monuments are almost indistinguishable from those that were saved from the disaster.

2. Seayambhunath and Bodhnath: Buddhism with a view

Kathmandu's most famous landmark is probably the sacred stupa of Swayambhunath, said to have arisen from a lotus flower floating in a lake that once occupied the Kathmandu Valley.

When Bodhisattva Manjushri opened a hole in the side of the valley with his sword, the miraculous shrine was stranded.

Geologists have confirmed the existence of the glacial lake, and the great stupa crowns this mountain west of the Nepalese capital since at least the year 460. The city was founded here in part because of its proximity to this pilgrimage center.

Many visitors come here to see the city, and pilgrims practicing Tibetan Buddhism gather daily to ritually circumambulate the base of this sacred mountain.

The Swayambhunath stupa, on the outskirts of Kathmandu.Tuul & Bruno Morandi (Getty Images)

Also a must-see is the Boudha neighborhood, dominated by a large stupa.

It is probably the most spiritual in Kathmandu;

a mini Lhasa of Tibetan exiles settled on the outskirts of Kathmandu in recent decades.

A continuous tide of pilgrims surrounds the great stupa each day under blowing prayer flags and the watchful gaze of the Buddha from the golden central spire.

This stupa is one of the few places in the world where Tibetan Buddhist culture is displayed without restrictions.

The narrow streets that surround it are full of monasteries and workshops that make accessories for the practice of this faith.

You can also visit the smaller Chabahil Stupa and the Pashupatinath Hindu Temple and Crematorium.

The Bodhnath stupa, one of the largest in Nepal.Alamy Stock Photo

3. Kathmandu Valley, the cultural heart

The Kathmandu Valley represents what Nepal is: medieval cities, fascinating temples and seven groups of representative monuments and buildings that are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

This valley forms an oval 30 kilometers wide that constitutes the political, historical and cultural heart of the country.

Created, according to Buddhists, from the bed of a sacred lake drained by Manjushri's sword, it is an increasingly urbanized mosaic of agricultural terraces and sacred villages with red brick temples that showcase the genius of Newar architects and craftsmen.

The Pashupati temples in the Kathmandu Valley, one of the monuments recognized by UNESCO as world heritage.Alamy Stock Photo

Its artistic heritage is the legacy of three medieval Malla kingdoms (Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur), which competed not only for military supremacy but for artistic excellence.

From that rivalry arose a set of public squares, pagoda-type temples and royal palaces with golden frontispieces.

Furthermore, centuries of trade and cultural exchange with Tibet and India have bequeathed a perfect fusion of aesthetic influences and religious practices.

Apart from the essential world heritage sites of Patan and Bhaktapur, the valley hides many rural temples, pilgrimage sites and typical Newar villages little visited but easy to explore by bus, taxi or on foot.

Interestingly, here, just 10 kilometers from the capital, there are far fewer tourists than are found during day trips along the Annapurna or Everest trekking routes.

4. Patán: lots of shine and an extraordinary Buddha image

The complex of temples, palatial courtyards and monuments in Patan Durbar Square is perhaps the most extraordinary example of Newar architecture in all of Nepal (the Newar culture is that of the indigenous people of the Kathmandu Valley, one of the richest and most complex cultures of the Himalayas).

Walking through this square, or contemplating it from the platform of a temple, is one of the highlights of any visit to the country.

Patan was once a city-state jealous of its independence and one of the three great medieval cities of the valley, but today only the muddy Bagmati River separates Patan from the great city of Kathmandu.

Many people still know it by its Sanskrit name, Lalitpur (“city of beauty”).

Its charm lies in its medieval network of

tole

(squares) and

bahal

, which together house more than a thousand Buddhist monuments and some of the most notable temples and palaces in the country, most of them from the 16th and 17th centuries, a time of splendor of the Malla dynasty.

For all these reasons, it is worth a full day trip from Kathmandu, or even spending the night to enjoy its alleys alone.

The Krishna temple, one of the great attractions of Patan's Durbar Square.Alamy Stock Photo

Just finding the magnificent golden Buddhist temple can be an experience: it can be accessed through a secret back door on the walking circuit along the north of Durbar Square or from the alleys on the north side of the square itself.

With origins dating back to the 12th century, the temple's golden façade is one of the most beautiful in Patan.

The head priest is a boy under 12 years old who holds office for 30 days and then gives the position to another young man.

The yellow turtles that walk around the grounds… are the guardians of the temple!

When you enter through the main door, the east one, you have to take off your shoes and get rid of any leather objects to access the lower patio.

Two elephant statues guard the main temple (built in 1409), whose central deity is an ornately decorated statue of Buddha Sakyamuni.

To the left and right of the courtyard are shrines and in front of the main temple, a smaller temple contains a “self-erected” chaitya (

swayambhu

).

Before leaving, climb the stairs to the chapel on the upper floor to feel transported to Tibet with its wall paintings, which include a wheel of life.

5. Bhaktapur: a medieval walk and Newar-style street food

The third of the medieval city-states of the Kathmandu Valley, it best preserves the timeless atmosphere of a typical Newar village.

Many Nepalis still know Bhaktapur by its ancient name of Bhadgaon, or by the Newar name of Khwopa, which means “city of devotees.”

A name that fits it, because the tall temples that fill its three squares are important examples of Nepalese religious architecture.

Beyond the medieval squares, Newar cultural life flows peacefully through its streets, only disturbed by the spectacular festivals that mark the local calendar.

Most visit the city on a day trip, but it is a wonderful experience to sleep in the old town and stroll through its squares and temples once tourists have returned to Kathmandu.

Thanks to the relative absence of traffic, it is the medieval town in the valley that is most enjoyable just wandering around.

Nyatapola, a tantric temple in the center of Bhaktapur.Alamy Stock Photo

Although its medieval architecture seems timeless, the city is constantly changing.

In Durbar Square, for example, there were many more buildings than today.

The devastating earthquake of 1934 demolished numerous temples and palatial buildings, and that of 2015, many more, including the temples of Vatsala Durga and Fasidega (both already rebuilt).

Additionally, many traditional brick houses were rebuilt with anti-seismic concrete, further altering the face of the city.

Bhaktapur's streets were restored in the 1970s with German funds from the Bhaktapur Development Project, in addition to sewerage and wastewater treatment.

Much of Bhaktapur's charm is due to these forward-thinking plans.

The most authentic place to try Newar street food in the shadow of the temples is a small unnamed stall located between Durbar Square and Taumadhi Tole and run by the same family for 50 years.

The only thing it offers is

Newar-style

wo (

bara

, in Nepali), a pancake made with a mixture of black and green lentil flour, cooked on a griddle and served with chickpea sauce.

The

wo

is ordered alone, with egg or mixed (egg with buffalo meat), and is eaten on the outside platform or inside, next to the grill overlooking the royal courtyard of the Tadhunchen Bahal, abode of the three Kumari (living goddesses). of Bhaktapur.

6. Sarangkot: See the sunrise over the Himalayas

Contemplating the Annapurnas from Sarangkot is almost a religious experience.

The great panoramic view of the Himalayan peaks extends from Dhaulagiri (8,167 meters) in the west to Annapurna South (7,219), Hiunchuli (6,441), Annapurna I (8,091), Machhapuchhare (6,997), Annapurna III (7,555), Annapurna IV (7,525), Annapurna II (7,937) and Lamjung (6,983), to the east.

Most come here at dawn or dusk, when the sun bathes these peaks in its heavenly golden light.

The best way to reach Sarangkot is with the spectacular Annapurna cable car from Sedi.

From the upper station you have to walk about 10 minutes to the main observation tower.

A staircase climbs to the spectacular viewing point above an ancient

kot

(fort).

Sarangkot has several accommodations and restaurants, most with stunning views, and it is quieter to sleep here than coming from Lakeside before dawn.

Two hikers on the Annapurna Circuit Trek.Christopher Moswitzer (Getty Images/iStockphoto)

Two warnings: occasionally the mountains disappear behind clouds for several days, especially during the monsoon.

And if noisy travelers spoil the peace at the observation tower, just beyond is the quieter, grassy helipad.

7. Nuwakot, a rarely visited tourist gem

The roads leading out of Kathmandu to the northwest and northeast offer the opportunity to get away from the Kathmandu Valley and into the

real

Nepal .

The Araniko Highway runs northeast up the turbulent Bhote Kosi River to the heart of Nepal's adventure sports industry, where rafting, canyoning and bungee jumping are the perfect plan for those suffering from temple overcrowding.

Nuwakot, to the northwest, is a historic town that offers a relaxing rural respite.

Among mountaineers it is reputed to be one of the best kept secrets in the country.

The 2015 earthquake damaged more than 90% of its 450 houses and also several temples, but most of these buildings have already been rebuilt.

Its center is the historic Durbar Square, currently being renovated by a Chinese company, presided over by the Saat Tale Durbar, a seven-story fortress built in 1762 by Prithvi Narayan Shah as a palace.

Nuwakot was the capital until this king conquered the Kathmandu Valley six years later, and died here in 1775. In the same courtyard the Ranga Mahal (a Malla pleasure pavilion) and the adjoining Garad Ghar (Tilganga Ghar) are being rebuilt. ).

The Taleju temple (1564) is the most splendid in the square, dedicated to the divine protector of the Malla kings, but it is closed to the public.

At the southern end of the Durbar, the gold-covered Bhairabi temple is used for animal sacrifices during the Sinduri Jatra festival in March or April, and the views of the valley from the window of the nearby pavilion are second to none.

Curious people at the windows of the Sat Tale Durbar palace, in Nuwakot.Alamy Stock Photo

We are in an area near Tibet, where there are many

resorts

for adventurers who are attracted by the mountains but also to practice canyoning, bungee jumping and rafting.

Hidden in a corner of the Bhote Kosi, 97 kilometers from Kathmandu and 15 from Tibet, the Borderlands Resort is one of the country's main adventure

resorts

, where you can practice nature activities.

Three kilometers closer to Tibet, The Last Resort is the other large

resort

in the region, accessible by a dizzying suspension bridge over a 160-meter gap that also functions as a platform for bungee jumping.

The price includes any lunch that the stomach is able to digest after the feat.

Here is also the “swing,” an eight-second free fall followed by a Tarzan-like jump and three or four swings over the gorge.

Another option without leaving Nuwakot is The famous Farm, an idyllic lodge retreat

that

is the

The result of the clever renovation of three old Nuwakot houses and perched high above the village.

A garden with views over the valley surrounds the traditionally decorated rooms;

Their Nepalese food is magnificent, and cooking classes are offered.

The owners are leaders in responsible tourism, very active in the reconstruction efforts after the earthquake.

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8. Kali Gandaki Valley: Hiking and Views

Riding on the Kali Gandaki River, Jomsom (2,760 meters) or, more accurately, Dzongsam (“new fort”), is the administrative capital of the region and its main communications hub to continue the journey to Upper Mustang and Muktinath.

The trip by road or plane to Jomsom leaves you very close to the high peaks and route heads.

In a few more days you can walk south to the picturesque village of Marpha or northeast to medieval Kagbeni before climbing to the pilgrimage center of Muktinath.

A hiker crosses the Kali Gandaki river, in the Annapurna area of ​​Nepal.Alamy Stock Photo

The small village of Thini, or Thinigaun (2,860 meters), is the oldest in the valley.

Getting to him and his monastery is an excellent short walk, to which you can add a small valley and a wonderful

gompa

(formerly Bön, now Buddhist).

If you want to continue exploring you have to go south and go down until you cross the Lungpuhyun Khola, go up the other side and pass by the ruins of the Gharab Dzong, a fortress built by King Thing Migchen.

Beyond lies the beautiful Dhumba Lake (2,830 meters), festooned with prayer flags.

From the ridge above the lake you can reach the Katsapterenga

gompa

(2,920 metres) for a spectacular 360-degree panorama of the Nilgiri peak, Tilicho harbour, Syang and Thini village and Jomsom.

Kagbeni is the gateway to Upper Mustang;

You can wander through the tangle of cobbled alleys and enjoy a medieval atmosphere with cattle roaming the streets, ancient

chörtens

and an ocher monastery perched above the town.

Above the doors of the houses you can see spirit traps and painted goat skulls.

The other excursion is Muktinath, a temple and its shrines that are the most important pilgrimage centers in the Himalayas for Buddhists and Hindus.

Among others, there is a temple of Vishnu and another of Jawalamai (goddess of fire), which contains a spring and natural gas flows that feed the famous eternal flame of earth, water and fire, which explains the great religious importance of the place. .

9. Lumbini: the place where Buddha was born

Lumbini was where one of the most revered figures in history was born: Siddhartha Gautama, the historical Buddha.

This was a very active monastic complex and a primary pilgrimage site for Buddhists, but time buried it in oblivion until the discovery in 1896 of a pillar with inscriptions left by the Buddhist emperor Ashoka in the middle of a sea of ​​ruins.

Statue of Siddhartha in the Nepalese city of Lumbini.Alamy Stock Photo

And history advances in cycles: in recent decades a new set of stupas, monasteries and temples built by Buddhist nations around the world rise above the swamps that surround the modest temple of Maya Devi, where the birth supposedly took place. of Buddha.

As work continues in the Lumbini Development Zone, the city receives more pilgrims than tourists, and the new international airport at Siddharthanagar (Bhairawa) will most likely reinforce its renewed popularity.

10. Chitwan National Park: a safari among rhinos, tigers and elephants

One of the main attractions of Nepal is the Chitwan National Park, a nature reserve declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984 that protects more than 932 square kilometers of forests, swamps and grasslands.

Its creation marked a milestone in the protection of the country's environment.

It is one of the best national parks in Asia to see wildlife, with a high probability of spotting Indian rhinos, deer, monkeys and some of the more than half a thousand birds that it has or that visit it.

You'll need more luck to spot a leopard, a wild elephant or a big-mouthed bear, although the site's most powerful attraction is the majestic Bengal tiger.

An elephant in Chitwan National Park, Nepal.mon si (Getty Images)

Chitwan is surrounded by small villages inhabited by the Tharus, the original ethnic group of this sector of the Terai.

The Tharu culture is intrinsically linked to the ecosystem and history of the park, and on any visit to Chitwan it is essential to attend a dance performance or visit one of its villages.

Thanks to Chitwan and other reserves, Nepal is today one of the few countries where tiger populations are recovering, and rhinoceros and elephant populations are also recovering, although more slowly.

Some

lodges

in Chitwan are giving up elephant-mounted trekking, and the animals now only lead them: another sign of growing awareness.

11. Everest Base Camp: A mythical trek to glimpse the top of the world

The two-week climb to Everest Base Camp (EBC) is perhaps the most famous trek in the world, and tens of thousands of

trekkers

undertake it each year to enjoy privileged views of the highest mountain on the planet and its neighbors, Also spectacular: Lhotse and Nuptse.

Tents at Mount Everest Base Camp, Glacier and Khumbu Mountains.Elena Slepitskaya (Getty Images/iStockphoto)

Of the many attractions of this trek, the most important is to reach the so-called “roof of the world” and get close to the heart of the high Himalayas. You pass through beautiful villages and

gompas

(monasteries), and the friendly

Sherpas

of Solu Khumbu make the treks in all a pleasure.

But you don't have to be obsessed with Everest;

The other mountains and routes in the region are just as spectacular.

The lakes and glaciers of the Gokyo Valley offer the most extraordinary views of the region, and the Three Passes trek provides the ultimate panorama.

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