A burgundy bow tie, a white shirt and a black suit jacket.
André Duval, 75, brought out his full range of waiters.
This Sunday morning, he is preparing to start the legendary waiters' race on the square in front of the Paris City Hall.
The centenary event had not taken place since 2011.
The town hall and Eau de Paris have decided to relaunch it, in partnership with the two main hotel and catering unions: the Union of Hotel Trades and Industries (Umih) Paris Île-de-France and the French Hotel and Restaurant Group (GHR) Paris Île-de-France.
Three hundred candidates, including 50 apprentices, are ready to take on the challenge of this new edition.
The rules of the game are simple: complete a 2 km loop carrying a tray with a coffee, a croissant and a glass of water.
All without running and, above all, without spilling anything.
“The bistro is the soul of Paris”
“Before, it was wine in the glass, not water,” points out André Duval.
The times have changed, but not the “good-natured” mindset.
The former butler is not there for the performance.
But, first, “to remember good memories” after a forty-five-year career, a multitude of waiter races and even… several marathons.
Twice that of New York, three times that of London but also those of Bangkok, Frankfurt and even Fort-de-France.
“And always in this outfit and with a tray in hand,” trumpets the retiree.
André Duval, 75, also started the race.
With his tray in hand and his Parisian waiter's outfit, this ex-maitre d'hôtel took part in many similar races in Paris but also in several marathons./LP/Delphine Goldsztejn
In Paris, he still remembers when Jacques Chirac, then mayor of the capital, gave the start.
“We did an 8.5 km loop passing through the Grands Boulevards, Opéra…” It is now Anne Hidalgo who is responsible for cutting the red ribbon and presenting the medals.
“We missed this race,” assures the socialist mayor, on the starting line.
She returns a few months before the Olympics in a Paris that will be celebrating.
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Before insisting: “The bistro is the soul of Paris.
» An association of zinc professionals was even created with the ambition of having these Parisian establishments included in UNESCO's world intangible cultural heritage.
An application already rejected twice.
“We will continue the fight to have them recognized,” promises the elected official.
In the meantime, some make a point of perpetuating a certain idea of Parisian chic.
Claude, 61, put on the traditional black waiters' jacket over his immaculate shirt.
Her wavy gray hair has been carefully slicked back.
After several years in the United States, this sommelier has returned to Paris for a year.
He works at the prestigious Tour d'Argent, one of the oldest restaurants in the capital located on the banks of the Seine in the 5th arrondissement.
A pretty orange rose accompanies his coffee, his croissant and his glass of water.
Who cares if this vase makes his job more difficult?
Claude prefers “elegance” to the record.
“It’s important that a tray has a touch of love,” he says with a smile.
It’s even a moral requirement!
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“It feels authentic”
Almost 11:15 a.m.
A countdown begins against a backdrop of cheerful electro hits.
The 50 apprentices have already finished their race.
It's the turn of Claude, André and some 250 other participants to set off towards the Marais.
Applause and encouragement punctuate the entire route.
“The atmosphere is nice, it feels authentic,” comments Hélène, 25, who came “out of curiosity” with her cousin.
Barely thirteen minutes later, the first competitors already cross the finish line... And take in one gulp the glass of water that is still on their tray.
“It’s hard on the calves,” breathes Theo.
However, everyone is used to covering kilometers with their tray.
Pauline Van-Wymeersch, 34, started in the profession at 16.
“No need for training,” says this waitress at the Café le Petit Pont (Paris V).
We already do this 10 to 12 hours a day.
» For her very first waiters' race, the thirty-year-old managed to climb to the top of the women's podium.
On the men's side, it was Samy Lamrous, maître d'hôtel at Contrescarpe (Ve), who came first.
Both won, among other things, tickets to the opening ceremony of the Olympics.
Their mission will also be to represent France during waiter races organized abroad.
André Duval is already looking forward to next year.
“I just hope I can compete again!”
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