Situated between Trentino-Alto Adige and Veneto, the Dolomites are a dream come true. Called “Pale Mountains” until 1796, they were then named Dolomites in homage to Déodat Gratet de Dolomieu, a French geologist whose work focused on dolomite stone, of which the massif is rich. Its highest peak, Marmolada, peaks at 3,343 meters. Other giants, the Plan de Corrona (2277m), the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (2999m) or the Cinque Torri (2361m), are popular destinations for skiers in winter and hikers in summer. Between the peaks, the high-altitude lakes reflect the fir trees. In the past, a train line crossed the entire massif, from Dobbiaco to Calalzo. Alas, dismantled in 1964, it was replaced by a cycle path, certainly splendid. To approach the massif, we only have two lines left: on the Veneto side, from Feltre to Colalzo, on the Trentino-Alto Adige side, the Bolzano San Candido. Supplemented by a network of buses and chairlifts, they allow you to spend a holiday in the Dolomites without a car, and without sacrificing either nature or the splendid landscapes.
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The Northern Way: by train on the Bolzano-San Candido
Bressanone, beautiful town on the way between Austria and Italy. fabrus - stock.adobe.com
Germans and Italians mingle in the streets of
Bolzano
, capital of the autonomous province of the same name. Pleasant, with Alpine architecture and colorful Italian-style facades, Bolzano is a good introduction to this trip. Before leaving the city by train, we embark on a vertical journey to the Renon plateau, which we reach by cable car. Up there, a train line connects seven villages immersed in green nature, from where you can contemplate the peaks of the Dolomites. To get closer to these sparkling mountains, we go back down to Bolzano where we board the regional train to
Fortezza
. On the way, we stop at
Bressanone
, a beautiful town on the way between Austria and Italy. A bus drives to Abbazia
di Novacela
, which we visit to taste its fresh and balanced high-altitude wines. At Fortezza, change of course: the train continues towards the
Brennero pass
to reach Austria, we change line to travel through Val Pusteria, which begins on the Italian side and continues past the border. In
Brunico
, you board the cable car to
Plan de Corrones
, where you can visit the Mountain Museum founded by the mountaineer Reinhold Messner, ski or hike, unless you prefer to have lunch in the panoramic mountain restaurant AlpiNN , which serves a memorable tiramisù. In
Dobbiaco
, the mountain lake is not far from the station, and a bus takes walkers to the Tre Cime, the emblematic summit of the massif. Finally, in
Versiaco
, the gondola takes off directly from the station to Mount Helm, on the border with Austria. The train stops there, but by bike you can continue exploring the
Val Pusteria
as far as Lienz, a walk that can be done during the day.
The southern route: from Feltre to Cortina
Belluno, the local “big city”. Mezzalira Davide - stock.adobe.com
Certainly, the Dolomites do not have official borders, but we can still say that
Feltre
is the southern gateway. Trains from Treviso, in the plain, run to its station, below the spur where the city center grows. If in the North, the Austrian influence is palpable, here, it is Venice which has extended its domination, hence the palaces in a style reminiscent of the lagoon city. The train continues its course between the Piave and the slopes of the mountains of the Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park to arrive in
Belluno
, the “big city” of the area. Here too, the Venetian Renaissance left palaces and towers. To visit it, you follow a pedestrian route called
percorso rosso
or
percorso Dolomiti , which leaves from the
Dolomites Park
information center
to explore
Piazza Mercato
, pass under the Torre Civica and reach the Duomo. The coaches of the Dolomitibus company allow you to venture into the mountains, towards
Agordo
, a hilltop village from where hiking trails start. By train, we will go to
Calalzo
, at the end of the line. A CortinaLink bus, provided by Trenitalia, finally takes you to Cortina d'Ampezzo, an upscale resort nicknamed the Queen of the Dolomites. Located in a conch between three peaks, the small town with luxury stores is popular for the beauty of its ski area, which has 120 km of slopes. From the center, a cable car climbs to the Faloria refuge. From this chalet, the view looks out over the snow-covered massif. There are rooms, a spa and a pleasant restaurant to enjoy Italian mountain gastronomy.
Good to know :
On the north side, the Trentino-Alto Adige region offers a card called MobilCard or MuseumCard, which opens the doors to 89 cultural places and allows you to take transport for free. Some hotels will offer you the GuestCard, a free version of the MobilCard, for the duration of your stay.
All tickets can be purchased on Trenitalia or at the station. Regarding regional trains, the price is fixed and seating is free.
ON VIDEO
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