Facing gusty winds and driving rain, the fishing boats had already set off into the icy night, when Sébastien Guerrero appeared at the auction, this first Friday in March, in the port of Saint-Jean-de-Luz (Pyrenees). -Atlantics).
It's 5:30 a.m. and the fresh fish is lying in plastic crates, lined up side by side on the soggy floor of the market. A little octopus, sole and cuttlefish, and above all a lot of hake, a species eaten here in all sauces: in breading, in brandade or in the Spanish style, with peppers and olive oil.
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