In the freezing night, at the end of Italy's highest valley, the wind swirls the snow and Cervinia lights up the base of the iconic pyramid it shares with Zermatt. Perched at an altitude of 2050 m, the village of 600 souls bumps into the slopes of the Matterhorn and peacefully goes through its long winter season, which runs here from October to May.
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Proof that this place also bears the heritage of mountaineering, the main street is in the name of Jean-Antoine Carrel, local guide and first Italian to have climbed the summit of the Matterhorn in 1865, just three days after a certain Edward Whympr. A bitter battle which ended in tragedy for the “winning” team. The development of the ski resort will follow, from the interwar period to the present day, to offer a Mecca for alpine skiing and a huge area, linked to the neighboring hamlet of Valtournenche and the very famous Zermatt.
In the freezing night, at the end of Italy's highest valley, the wind swirls the snow and Cervinia lights up the base of the iconic pyramid it shares with Zermatt. Nicola Cornero
Today, from the church bordered by the river to the nearby foot of the slopes, heterogeneous and sometimes outdated buildings offer a small collection of shops, hotels and restaurants in a pleasantly lively atmosphere. The range offered is varied, ranging from simple souvenir stalls and small pizzerias, to addresses for epicureans who are not financially limited. The local Aosta Valley culture is very present; it seems that Cervinia has managed to preserve its charm and its character, with its natural assets and its conviviality, without falling into the hyper-luxury of international resorts surrounded by legendary peaks.
The Cervinia-Valtournenche ski area
Here, the winter season lasts more than seven months, and children ski for free up to 8 years old and half price up to 14 years old. The Italian area is south-facing, offering sunny, wide, hilly and necessarily panoramic slopes, mostly red.
Children and beginners will concentrate around Plan Maison while the sharpest thighs will take on the technical slope of Cieloalto, or on the Ventina, a magnificent 12km red slope, which begins at Plateau Rosà (3480m altitude) for finish in Cervinia. The Valtournenche sector, lower down, allows you to slide around the larch trees, which is pleasant and especially ideal on bad weather days.
Ski to Zermatt
Access to the Swiss slope, known to be more sporty and more technical, is via Plateau Rosa and requires good organization. If very good skiers prefer to opt for the Italian-Swiss ski area “
Matterhorn ski paradise”
package , families or average skiers generally have an interest in opting for the Cervinia-Valtournenche package, with the option for one or two days to pay a supplement for the Swiss escape!
Be careful of the weather conditions which, if bad, can prevent the opening of the cable car and access to Switzerland; and also watch out for time management! The return to Cervinia must be anticipated, at the risk of remaining on the Swiss side. A return by road takes almost 4 hours… and costs more than €200 per person. In this regard, it is better to “accept defeat” and sleep there, even if it will not be painless for the wallet!
New at high altitude
The Mattehorn, for a 1.6km cross-border trip by cable car at almost 4000 m altitude, above the glaciers. Nikokvfrmoto - stock.adobe.com
The Matterhorn Alpine Crossing, commissioned in summer 2023, is the big news in the Italian-Swiss domain. A 1.6km cross-border trip by cable car at an altitude of almost 4000 m, above the glaciers. With a price ranging from 120 to 240€ for a round trip, this structure is clearly aimed at the upscale international clientele present in Zermatt; it is also a way for the Swiss station to attract this clientele from Milan.
For skiers, it changes nothing, except the almost annual opening of the upper part, allowing skiing on glaciers from spring to the end of autumn, i.e. skiing eleven months out of twelve.
Natural crochet in Chamois
The bucolic village of Chamois, a paradise for hikers, on foot, on skis or on snowshoes. Aosta Valley / Italy
In a completely different style, we will prefer the 100% nature getaway in Chamois. Going down the valley, 15 km from Cervinia, the small village of Buisson is home to a cable car which serves the only village in Italy inaccessible by car: Chamois. In a few minutes we are propelled into a most bucolic village, where only a hundred people live (and only one child!). The landscape is spectacular, the old houses, the small restaurant at the foot of the few kilometers of slopes is ideal for enjoying yourself after your first skis. It is also a paradise for hikers, on foot, on skis or on snowshoes.
Practical Guide
The lounge of the Bucaneve Hotel. Pallu
Altitude:
1,524 m - 3,883 m. 157 km of slopes for 67 slopes in Breuil Cervinia (with Valtournenche) and 360 km for the international area with Zermatt.
Open non-stop until May 5 on the Italian side, then from May 6 to September 8 on the Plateau Rosa and Zermatt.
Ski pass price:
€59/person for the 1-day Cervinia-Valtournenche pass and €83/person for the international area.
Where to sleep:
at the Bucaneve **** hotel, a beautiful establishment with beautifully wooded rooms and impeccable service, with a very beautiful spa. From €232 for a superior double room with breakfast.
Such. : +39 0166 949119. Piazza Jumeaux, 10 Fraz. Breuil Cervinia - 11021 Valtournenche (AO) Italia
Where to have lunch on the slopes:
at Rocce Nere. Meet with a designer interior and very beautiful volumes. Sunny terrace and delicious meat. Located in Plan Maison, a few steps from the arrival of the cable car.
Where to dine:
at Ymeltrob. In a “wild nature” decor straight from the brush and imagination of a local artist, this very friendly restaurant offers a wide range of choices. Special mention for the pizzas, made in front of customers. The selection of wine from the Aosta Valley is also very sophisticated!
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