“
I wanted us to stop thinking of Pucci only when we're at the beach
,” says Camille Miceli with her usual good humor and banter.
I want to bring Pucci back to a city, to a woman's daily life! This is a new challenge for us.
» Neither one nor two, after Saint-Moritz, Capri and Florence, the Frenchwoman is heading to the Eternal City for a new stage of her jet-set Grand Tour. “
A very personal choice too, because Rome was my father’s city and a place where I have long come to recharge my batteries when Paris is too trying for me…
”
A little over two years ago, Camille Miceli, close to Azzedine Alaïa, who began her career in communications at Chanel before working on accessories with Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton then joining Dior, was appointed head from the Pucci house. A sleeping beauty founded by Marquis Emilio Pucci de Barsento, descendant of a line of Florentine nobility who lived a thousand lives: professional skier, bomber pilot, illustrator... Which led him to found his brand in 1948 in Capri, whose Colorful printed jerseys with psychedelic accents quickly attracted a cosmopolitan and wealthy clientele, from Marilyn Monroe to Mireille Darc, including all the elegant aristocrats on the little island off the coast of Naples.
Read alsoFashion: Pucci, rebirth in Florence
It is this beautiful heritage that the LVMH group, owner of the brand since 2000, wants to perpetuate, with the help of Camille Miceli. It has therefore found the ideal formula to unveil its collections and give a facelift to the dolce vita spirit of the founder: a fashion show, in a destination that makes you dream, in “
see now buy now
” (this wardrobe is therefore now in stores) and a crowd of happy few, close to the designer, Italian actors and American rappers, who sway their hips from the end of the show until the end of the night.
Christy Turlington shows in Rome for Pucci Pucci
Mariacarla Boscono for Pucci Pucci
A stone's throw from Piazza Navona, in the Palazzo Altemps, built in 1480 and which now houses an exceptional collection of antique statues, guests take their seats on seats covered with Vivara motifs, created by Emilio Pucci in 1965 as a nod to to an island in the Gulf of Naples. “
It’s a classic print from the house launched at the time in Acapulco and which even gave its name to a perfume
,” says Camille Miceli.
Until now, I didn't want to touch it, preferring to focus on the psychedelic seventies period of Pucci's history. Then I came across a Vogue Italia from 1990, with, on the cover, Isabella Rossellini photographed by Steven Meisel, dressed in this motif by my friend the stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele. I thought it was the perfect time to get Vivara!
» And the Frenchwoman applied it to the last nine looks, long bathrobes and low-cut terrycloth dresses, with, to end in apotheosis, of course, Isabella Rossellini herself, in a printed caftan, to the warm applause of the public.
A classic but convincing facet
Worn by a cast of stars (Christy Turlington, Eva Herzigova, Mariacarla Boscono and even a pug named Ursula), the rest of the wardrobe confronts the jet-set DNA of the house with the more urban reality of the Pucci woman. This summer, in the city, she wears simple black men's blazers (with a printed pocket, anyway), beige crop tops with fringes, long denim skirts, and for the evening, sequin suits , enhanced with discreet touches of archive patterns and other photogenic accessories - mini-bags (a novelty for the house), fish-eyed ankle boots, chokers, logo sports bras... A sophisticated, more classic and convincing facet , of this girl we constantly imagined on vacation.
Still, the history of the house and its summer roots are imprinted (no pun intended) in the collective imagination. It is not easy for Miceli to transport the brand to new horizons and a different clientele, who do not have the chance to spend their vacations on a yacht. In the meantime, in the small theater hidden in the basement of the Palais Altemps, models, influencers and journalists dance to disco hits, a spritz in hand.
Isabella Rossellini and Camille Miceli at the finale of the Pucci Pucci show