Colette Trublet has not forgotten anything about this Easter weekend in 1989. The founder of the Savenn Douar association, at the origin of the “Literary City” of Bécherel, remembers the striking atmosphere of the first book market in this small village in Ille-et-Vilaine, in Brittany. She remembers the evening welcoming the second-hand booksellers, the enthusiasm of a bookseller from Le Havre and the crowds of visitors the next day. “
That’s how it all began, and 32 years later, we still organize a book festival for Easter, as a tradition
,” she explains to Le
Figaro
.
That year, almost 35 years ago, Bécherel became the first commune in France to define itself as a “Book Village”.
What is a “Book Village”?
Introduced for the first time in Wales in 1962, this concept of dedicating a town to the book trade attracted France thirty years later. In addition to Bécherel, six other French villages have chosen to define themselves this way. These literary communes were created thanks to resident associations which make them real landmarks for bibliophiles, with numerous book-related events organized every year. Book markets, thematic museums, literary aperitifs... Multiple activities are offered throughout the year and make these villages the ideal destinations for literary escapades.
In 2012, a “Federation of Towns, Cities and Villages of Books in France” was even formed. For several years, it served as a link between these villages, spread across different regions of France. They met once a year in Paris, during the Antique Book Fair. Abandoned, this federation no longer exists today, which Anne Feriau, president of the Esquelbecq, Book Village association, regrets. “
I think it was a good idea to create a federation,”
she says.
It would be interesting to restart the process and see if the municipalities would like to reform a common core.
»
On the occasion of the Paris Book Festival which is taking place this weekend at the Grand Palais,
Le Figaro
leafs through the stories of these seven French communes, where the passion for books is still as strong as ever.
Bécherel (Brittany)
Less than 700 inhabitants, 16 bookstores and nearly 400,000 books. This is what we discover while strolling in Bécherel, an ancient medieval town perched on a rocky peak. Certified “City of Character”, Bécherel is located just half an hour by car from Rennes. The village became a “literary city” in 1989 thanks to the idea of resident Colette Trublet to revitalize the town. According to her, at the end of the 1980s, four out of five houses were empty.
So, when the booksellers came to the first Easter Book Market in 1989, many decided to stay. Since then, the village has never turned the page and regularly organizes literary events, such as book markets every first Sunday of the month, calligraphy and bookbinding workshops, or even a “Book Night”, its annual festival which lasts until midnight in August. The town also has a cultural space La Maison du livre, with exhibitions on books and writing.
How to get there ?
By train, allow 1h30 from Paris to Rennes, then 30 minutes by car taking the D137 towards Tinténiac, then the D20.
Montolieu (Occitanie)
The initiative comes from Michel Braibant, a Belgian bookbinder, who made Montolieu a “Book Village” in 1989. Based in Carcassonne, to the south-east of the village, Michel Braibant discovered this concept and decided to import it by creating the “Montolieu Village du livre” association. The town now has around fifteen bookstores and second-hand booksellers, with old, new and second-hand books. Mr. Braibant will also allow the opening of the Museum of Book Arts & Crafts, which highlights his personal collection of books, old objects and typewriters. The museum traces the evolution of writing media and provides an introduction to the book profession, thanks to its workshops and courses offered.
Montolieu also has several artisanal engraving, calligraphy and typography workshops. Located in the middle of the Cabardès vineyards, the literary town is pleasant to visit in the summer sun, with its flowery streets and its green setting. For 34 years, Montolieu has remained the only “Book Village” in the south of France.
How to get there ?
By train, allow 5h30 min by train from Paris, or to Toulouse (approximately 1 hour by car).
Fontenoy-la-Joûte (Grand Est)
A former agricultural town, Fontenoy-la-Joûte became a “Book Village” in 1996, inspired by Bécherel and Montolieu. The association “Les Amis du Livre”, which established the project in 1994, found the ideal place to develop this concept. Located less than an hour by car from Nancy, the Lorraine village brought together several unoccupied houses and barns, perfect for welcoming second-hand book sellers. Since its creation, around 40 book professionals have succeeded one another in this village of around 300 inhabitants, which has ten booksellers and a calligrapher.
Many farms have also been bought and converted into shops, while retaining their original architecture. As a good “Book Village”, Fontenoy-la-Joûte offers several literary events, including its comic book festival which will be held on the weekend of July 27 and 28, 2024, its “Book Night” in August, as well as meetings literary.
How to get there ?
By train, allow 1 hour 30 minutes by train from Paris to Nancy (approximately 45 minutes by car).
Cuisery (Bourgogne-Franche-Comté)
Cuisery has held this title since 1999 thanks to the “Cuisery Book Village Association”. The initiative was launched when residents noticed that the town in the south of the Saône-et-Loire department was losing its local shops. Today, the village of around 1,500 inhabitants has eight bookstores, two book craft workshops (bookbinding and old printing) and artists' galleries. Its main street regularly welcomes external exhibitors - professional and private second-hand book sellers.
You can also find an old-fashioned printing press there: the Gutenberg space. To celebrate its 25 years as a Book Village, Cuisery is organizing a Book Fair this year which will be held on May 19 and will present 50 authors. For amateur writers, a short story competition is organized each year.
How to get there ?
By train, it takes 1 hour 40 minutes by train from Paris to Dijon (approximately 1 hour 10 minutes by car) and by TER (55 minutes to Tournus station).
Montmorillon (New Aquitaine)
To the south east of Poitiers, the “City of writing and book professions” is a special “Book Village”. This has been established in the medieval quarter of the city since 2000 and is home to several booksellers and second-hand booksellers, but also craftsmen, calligraphers, illustrators and bookbinders. Another curiosity: the Typewriter and Calculating Machine Museum, with 100 models on display from 1833 to 1980.
In Montmorillon, the book has been a symbol since the 18th century, when the village had numerous paper mills along the Gartempe river. They have all disappeared today, but the literary city retains its reading soul. In 1990, the first Book Fair was set up, then became “Les Rencontres de Montmorillon – literature and territory” in 2021. Not to be missed, Le Jardin des Ecrivains where it is pleasant to stroll in spring. 26 varieties of rose bushes are planted there, named after writers, such as Maupassant, Pierre de Ronsard or George Sand.
How to get there ?
By train, allow 1 hour 25 minutes from Paris to Poitiers and by TER (45 minutes to Gare de Montmorillon station).
Ambierle (Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes)
Labeled a “Village of Character”, Ambierle has also been a “Book Village” since 2007. Ambierle overlooks the Roanne plain in its green setting. The village of 2000 inhabitants has only three bookstores, but is animated by various literary events throughout the year thanks to the Ambierle book village association.
Four book markets are organized in parallel, with two classic markets at the beginning of the year and in the fall. The April one highlights a specific theme - this year, on April 28, the thriller is in the spotlight. But its flagship event, which brings together nearly 2,000 visitors per year, takes place the last weekend of September. This is the comic book festival which brings together around forty authors. The next one will take place on September 21 and 22, 2024.
How to get there ?
By car, 1 hour 15 minutes from Saint-Étienne. By train, it takes 1h57 min from Paris to Lyon (1h30 by car).
Esquelbecq (Hauts-de-France)
Finally, Esquelbecq, 20 km from Dunkirk, was named a “Book Village” in 2007. The objective? Discover the northern commune through books, as confided by Anne Fériau, president of the association behind the “Esquelbecq, Book Village” project. The place has already gained notoriety since last year, when it was elected the “favorite village of the French” in the eponymous program on France 3. Inspired by the example of other “Book Villages”, the village counts today three permanent booksellers and organizes several literary events, including its “Book Nights”, every first Saturday in July. they bring together an average of 2,500 people. Monthly book markets are also organized from September to May, as well as thematic literary aperitifs.
How to get there ?
By car, 30 minutes from Dunkirk. By train, allow 49 minutes from Paris to Arras, then by TER (approximately 1h30 from).
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