Should you still buy a new classic watch? In these times of passion for vintage pieces, many lovers of beautiful watches are asking themselves the question. It must be admitted that there is reason to hesitate, torn between the temptation to treat yourself to an old watch on the dynamic second-hand market and watchmaking dreams that are often inaccessible, particularly due to the random availability of parts. exception and the price barrier. In Geneva, watchmakers are taking advantage of Watches and Wonders to reassure this essential clientele, who will be present this weekend since the show is open to the public until April 15. Even if, during the show, the galaxy of traditional watches is a little eclipsed by the shooting stars that are the complicated pieces, they do not remain completely in the shadow of these suns since they benefit, by repercussion, from the lights of creativity. Art crafts, for example, continue to attract collectors and discerning enthusiasts, in particular because they allow houses to talk about something other than technique.
A stroll that Czapek invites with his Promenade Guilloché Soleil watch, the Ivory version of which presented in Geneva particularly catches the eye. The originality of the sunburst motif, engraved by hand in the Metalem dial-making workshops under the direction of Kari Voutilainen, lies in its off-centering around the small seconds dial, placed at 4:30 o'clock. Precisely proportioned, its 38 mm case diameter and only 10.8 mm thick is made of steel. Welcoming visitors to its stand in bow ties and blue suits, its president, Xavier de Roquemaurel, claims an aesthetic approach
: “With watches as with people, the dial – or the face – reveals a large part of the character from the first encounter. The choice of the model we wear reveals a little of our soul. We like to play with colors, techniques and materials. Promenade is therefore not only a timekeeping instrument but also a canvas for creative expression. »
An intention that Rolex clearly shares with its new Perpetual 1908. The exemplary execution of the guilloché pattern on its dial is a reminder that the crown brand does not only excel at designing professional watches or divers. The rosette curve of the grain of rice motif is centered on the small seconds counter at 6 o'clock to encourage the diffusion of light. A decor completed by the elegant sautéed fillet of the timer graduation. Distinguished but not stuffy with its fluted bezel, this classic Rolex in platinum is no less modern with its automatic caliber 7140, inaugurated last year, notably featuring the Chronergy escapement in nickel phosphorus.
Contemporary materials now have their letters of nobility and are not exclusively dedicated to sports watches, as evidenced by Grand Seiko with its Evolution 9 watch with manual winding reference SLGW003 made of Brilliant Hard Titanium, an alloy shinier than traditional titanium developed by the Japanese factory. Inaugurated in 1967 with the famous 44GS model, the line is functional and sober.
“Several aspects of the watch's design have been revisited: the protruding and grooved indexes have been refined and elongated, while the multifaceted lugs are now narrower and have a reduced surface area,” specifies the Japanese watchmaker. The watch's center of gravity has been lowered to ensure the comfort and stability that Grand Seiko's Evolution 9 style is known for. »
If titanium, very light, is resistant to scratches and insensitive to corrosion, it can be worked for brilliant finishes, in particular by Zaratsu polishing, a favorite technique of the artisans of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, where all mechanical watches are produced of the brand. A factory located in northern Japan surrounded by white birch trees. Their soft bark is the naturalistic inspiration for the textured pattern on the dial of this watch. In other categories, visitors to Watches and Wonders will delight in discovering several complex timepieces carrying calendar or moon phase indications.
GO FROM DREAM TO REALITY
Coming back to earth, they will be able to easily move from dream to reality by considering the developments in the range at Frédérique Constant. In addition to the new Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture, inaugurating Frédérique Constant's new in-house movement, the Manufacture caliber FC-716, equipped with a unique barrel providing three days of power reserve, aesthetes will look with interest at the Classic Date Manufacture model on the dial salmon. A tone that has returned to fashion, which also evokes the “tropical” dials so popular with vintage enthusiasts. This up-to-date watch cleverly plays both sides, with the added bonus of the reliability of a current movement.
This is also the guideline of Raymond Weil. The independent Geneva company is strategically repositioning itself in the niche of timeless pieces with a well-proportioned design, recently awarded the prestigious Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix (GPHG). A family of watches successfully marrying the codes of the golden age of the 1940s, in particular the very readable and perfectly designed sector dial, with the current dimensions allowing for automatic movements with proven robustness and ensuring good readability. A concern taken seriously by Elie Bernheim, general manager of the family business:
“We have redesigned our models by favoring a neoclassical approach for the Millésime range. So, for the moon phase, we not only wanted an incarnate moon, but also a beautiful luminescence in the dark, by today's standards. »
Bell & Ross, for its part, sets the cursor towards the 1970s and 1980s, with a two-tone gold and steel version of its BR 05 Chrono. Chic and relaxed, this watch with its integrated bracelet, in keeping with the times, has already established itself as a classic. In two colors, it appropriates an aesthetic code which is no longer outdated but on the contrary embraces an imagination rich in flamboyant figures.
For its part, Zenith, on the occasion of the grand launch of its new diver, the Defy Extreme Diver, is bringing to the surface of its rich archives the original model, dating from 1969. It was then the first watch of dive from the Le Locle factory and… the only one of its collections until now. The new references, water-resistant to 1,969 feet (or 600 m), are made of titanium, have a generous diameter of 42.5 mm, feature the El Primero 3620 SC automatic caliber at high frequency (5Hz), and do not escape not, in the range of their interchangeable bracelets, to a clasp made from recycled fishing nets. Purists will prefer the Defy Skyline chronograph or the Defy Revival A3648, which retains the initial 37mm faceted case and opts for the automatic Elite 670 movement. Its unidirectional rotating bezel is made of steel, but with an orange-tinted sapphire insert, matching the black and orange dial. Classic watches are really picking up color.