Rugby runs through its veins like a red thread that has guided its life. It is enough to evoke this Wales-France which is profiled in Cardiff this Saturday (5:45 pm) so that its rocky voice, its singing accent and its sparkling eye send us back to the heart of its native Pyrenees. Sitting in a corner of the entrance to his hotel in the Odéon district (6th arrondissement) overlooking his restaurant Le Comptoir du Relais Saint-Germain, Yves Camdeborde, 55, goes back in time.
"My first memories are the Welsh," he smiles. They made me dream. We weren't talking about French flair at the time. There were JPR Williams, JJ Williams, Steve Fenwick and especially Gareth Edwards. I must have been six or seven years old, I was a scrimmage in the Pau section and I thought I was him. They all had the 70's rouflaquettes. When I was old enough, I let them grow. "
The chef pauses, answers a question from a collaborator, then goes on very quickly, as if he wanted to unroll all the ball that separates him from his roots at once: "We were watching the matches between friends in Pau then we redid them in our parents' gardens. The French team came later. I remember writing an essay in college which said that I wanted to live the life of Jérôme Gallion ( Editor's note: half of Toulon international scrum from 1978 to 1985 ). Later, I worked in Saint-Tropez and I went to see all of Toulon's hitchhiking games. "
"Catering is like rugby"
The great master of “bistronomy” traces his journey, his departure from the family home at 14 years of age to “live his life”. His father pushed him towards catering and encouraged him to "go up to Paris. He played there for the Massif central club and landed at the Ritz, under the care of chef Christian Constant. "He showed me the importance of all the links in the chain, even the smallest, which I was at the time," he says. It made tilt, I understood that it was like rugby. Everyone has a role to play and success depends on team spirit. I became mad about my job. "
A profession, a passion, which have brought him as close as possible to the XV of France. Friend of Pierre Berbizier, the former coach with whom he remade the oval world in a hotel room in Durban the night before the semi-final of the World Cup South Africa - France, in 1995, he is also close to Fabien Galthié who regularly comes to eat at his place.
"He achieved something essential: giving fans a smile," said Camdeborde. After the victories against England (24-17) and Italy (35-22), I found joy in the street. The takeover of this youth is very beautiful. There is a form of general humility. Belonging to the jersey is emphasized, like the patriotic side, pride, the honor of representing a country. In the field, nobody gives up. "
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Yves Camdeborde stops, then questions: "Would it be good to go and win in Wales? I'm not sure of it. It might be a bit early. We must not forget that the objective is the 2023 World Cup in France. The words hesitate for once, before tumbling in gusts. "These Welsh songs are wonderful. They come from workers, miners ... If I had to start my life over, and if of course I had the qualities, I would like to be an international rugby player. Scoring an essay in front of 80,000 people must be magic. "
Yves Camdeborde's menu for Wales - France
"As a starter, leeks are a must! Grilled, very dark with a vinaigrette made from calamansi vinegar. Then, a coq au vin but with a yellow wine and as a garnish a parsnip gratin. A cream caramel for dessert. For the drink, a red wine, Pinot noir, a Burgundy, Nuits-Saint-Georges. "
