Martina Demmel is getting along better and better in the climbing world cup.
In Briancon, not much was missing to reach the finals.
She amazed a Canadian colleague.
Briancon / Böbing - Martina Demmel hadn't even started climbing in the semifinals, Oscar Baudrand was already impressed by her.
The fact that the newcomer from Böbing had managed a 9a route on the rock this year "I didn't even notice," said the Canadian athlete who co-commented on the live stream.
"9a is really a big deal."
In the minutes that followed, Demmel proved that she can also climb an artificial wall and plastic handles and steps at a high level.
The 19-year-old was also denied the final of the best eight in Briancon, but with 15th place she achieved her best World Cup result so far and was the best of five German women among the 57 participants.
Martina Demmel first shows her nerves and then her fighting spirit
During the first holds in the semifinals, Demmel looked a bit nervous. With one or the other exe, she had problems clipping the rope. But with increasing duration "I got into a good flow and was able to enjoy the tour", she is quoted by the DAV national team. In the heavily overhanging part of the wall, she performed well, climbed powerfully and safely. The key point in the semifinals was a boulder-heavy passage to the slightly flatter upper wall part. Demmel fought doggedly on the decisive grip. "You've been on the wall for so long - come on," said Baudrand, who was eliminated in the qualification, with her. However, it was of no use: Demmel slipped on the second attempt. The 19-year-old was on the wall for four and a half minutes. Participants have a maximum of six minutes to make it to the top.A "29" was noted for Demmel. To get to the final, she would have had to go seven holds that day. At the same place as the woman from Böbingen, DAV colleague Hannah Meul had previously been thrown into the rope; she took 16th place in the final bill. Otherwise no German made it into the semifinals.
Lead climbing
Martina Demmel starts in the lead discipline.
This is climbing on a rope.
The first World Cup of this kind took place in 1989.
At the beginning the competitions took place on the rock, but now there is climbing on artificial walls.
What is measured (in numbers) is the grip the athlete can reach and hold.
Whoever comes to the top receives a “Top” result.
The athletes have six minutes per route.
All starters (separated into women and men) complete a
qualification
with two routes (each in Flash style).
The top 26 start in the
semifinals
(one route / onsight style).
To the
final
(one route / onsight style) come the best eight. If two climbers have the same result in the semifinals or in the finals, the one who was better placed in the qualification is ahead.
Due to the Olympic Games in Japan, the World Cup is now on a break. Demmel is satisfied with their latest results. "I still check the results list and see if there has been a mistake," she says with a smile. She reached the semifinals three times in a row, improving steadily: from 25th place (Villars Sur-Ollon) to 22nd position (Chamonix) to 15th place. A few days later, her conclusion about her latest appearance in Briancon is: “I had the greatest fun climbing plastic ever. I know there is still room for significant improvement. That increases my motivation. "
Everything that she has experienced in highs and lows in competitions in recent weeks (at the World Cup in Innsbruck she missed the semifinals), "are small steps on the way to gain more self-confidence and routine". The mere placements don't mean much to Demmel. “I want to feel good on the wall.” And it helps not to compare yourself too much with the others. Until the next World Cup, she will concentrate on her great passion, rock climbing.