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Munich mountaineer David Göttler on Everest onslaught: "This has nothing to do with alpinism!"

2023-05-21T03:30:20.105Z

Highlights: David Göttler was alone on the summit of Mount Everest in 2022. The Munich alpinist talks about the rush to Everest (8849 m) and his own ascent to the highest point on earth. Only two percent of the ascents on Everest are made without oxygen, he says. In expedition mountaineering, we have to be more honest about how we do what, he adds.. Was alone at the summit, but I wouldn't call that alpinism either. I used fixed ropes and didn't have to lay a meter of my own track.



Was alone on the summit of Mount Everest: David Göttler. © Photo: David Göttler

Munich – Our newspaper reaches David Göttler (44) – of course – in the mountains. At the Theodulhütte at 3317 meters, below the Matterhorn. In an interview, the Munich alpinist talks about the rush to Everest (8849 m), his own ascent to the highest point on earth and tourism in the mountains.


David Göttler, what does mountaineering mean to you?

This is a relatively wide area of how to move in the mountains. For me, this includes being independent and self-reliant in the mountains, in small teams with a maximum of four people. If we look at expedition mountaineering, without additional aids such as oxygen.


Every year, at the start of the Everest season, images of the traffic jam on the world's highest mountain are shown. The rush also has to do with the fact that the ascent is made much easier by Sherpas and oxygen.

Absolute. And in any case, this has nothing to do with alpinism, which we see on Everest. 98 percent of these are simply guided ascents. I was at the summit without oxygen and Sherpas, but I wouldn't call that alpinism either. I used fixed ropes and didn't have to lay a meter of my own track. Nevertheless, of course, it was a completely different style. Only two percent of the ascents on Everest are made without oxygen. Of course, the people who are there with all kinds of aids perceive the mountain differently. Therefore, one does not have to be surprised that the success rate is quite high to get to the highest point.


When you successfully climbed Everest in 2022, you didn't have any oxygen with you, there was Haribo as a small doping.

There is no rulebook for expedition mountaineering. It is up to us mountaineers to document everything honestly and transparently. I met a friend in camp four at the time, and he offered me half a pack of Haribo.
For me, it was really a dichotomy because I didn't want to accept any outside help. In the end, however, I couldn't resist (laughs). As banal as it sounds, it was important for me to communicate immediately where I had accepted external help. I once compared mountaineering with oxygen to an e-bike. Of course, you can also cycle the Tour de France on an e-bike and feel the same as a top cyclist, but it's just something different.


What do you want?

In expedition mountaineering, we have to be more honest about how we do what. Top managers always like to have an Everest climb in their profile. But the next question should be: Were you up with or without oxygen? The challenge posed by nature up there with little oxygen must be accepted honestly. Then many would also notice: Oh, but now it's over from 6000 meters. And it would automatically not be so crowded anymore.


David Göttler. © Photo: Dumas

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In 2019 you turned back 100 meters below the summit. Even then, there was a traffic jam.

There were just too many people up there. I also say people quite explicitly. Because I have a hard time calling them mountaineers just because they have crampons on. Without oxygen and Sherpas, I can't afford to stand there and wait for the traffic jam. But I have never condemned the fact that there is so much going on there. You just know that, you have to take it into account.


454 people want to climb Everest this year. More than ever before. Of course, the agencies and Sherpas also make a living from this business and as many successful ascents as possible.

I would never condemn Nepalese tourism either. I just hope that we can show them how to make the whole thing sustainable from the start. That they don't make the same mistakes as we do in the Alps. Everything is installed with us. But to tell the poorest country in the world, "Hey, do a little less business," to tell them to do that seems very cynical to me. At the same time, we are trying to milk the last cent out of the Alps.


Do you often think back to the moment when you stood on the highest point on earth?

The beauty of the mountain is that everyone can find it for themselves. For some, Munich's local mountain may already be like Everest. The interplay with nature gives me an incredible amount. I was at Makalu at the summit in 2013. Then I had a dry spell. I learned a lot on the expeditions, but I was never at the top. Standing on Everest at the third attempt in 2022 will carry you for many years, during which you may not be able to get up anywhere again. The moment is not as many may imagine. You don't start cheering or singing. Because you know that you have to go down again. It's only half-time to be at the top. I was lucky enough to be all alone at the summit. It's indescribable. I was in my own world.

Interview: Nico-Marius Schmitz

Source: merkur

All sports articles on 2023-05-21

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