Arthur Viot and his wife Marie-Victoire opened their fishmonger in 2021, in the Saint-Germain market, in Paris. The classic stalls have been replaced by refrigerated display cases where, as if from still lifes by Gerrit Willemsz Heda, a grouper from Saint-Jean-de-Luz, a John Dory from Vendée are lined up.

“When you catch a fish, it smells of cucumber, fresh porcini mushrooms,” notes Arthur.