Chef Gilles Choukroun returns to Baca'v Paris. Between the Gobelins and the Jardin des Plantes, the very good bistro has just changed hands discreetly.

We ended up getting used to seeing the gastronomic world playing its egotistical comedy on us and our casserole stars behaving like perfect little gondola heads. Of course, we haven't yet seen them unwrap their aprons in public (although) but, from the thirty-second "Top Chef" finalist to the triple Michelin macaronet, we will soon spend more time telling them about them rather than their restaurant.